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Old 05-06-2016, 01:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
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It's probably over at IC. I did it so long ago now that I don't remember the exact steps (only that it was fairly easy once I removed the driver's seat.) You'll want to add the regen and clutch switches at the same time while you're down there.

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Old 05-06-2016, 01:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Haha, yeah thats definitely on the list of things to do. Got a link on how to wire up the regen switch?
On the clutch and brake pedals, there is a button. When you push the pedal in, it presses the button and completes the circuit. You can just stuff the ends of two wires into the back of the connector, and connect the other end of those wires to a useful button.

Completing the clutch circuit imitates having the clutch in, which disables regen and assist, allowing you to control when it happens, and will prevent the IMA from restarting the engine if you also install a kill switch (which is more complicated). It's best to use a maintained switch for this one, so you don't have to hold it.

Completing the brake circuit imitates having the brake pedal pressed. Brake lights come on, and the car engages maximum regen. I find it most useful to use a momentary switch for this one.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Haha, thanks! Thats super easy.

So, you have to disable the clutch switch if you want to use the regen switch I take it?
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Haha, thanks! Thats super easy.

So, you have to disable the clutch switch if you want to use the regen switch I take it?
Yep. The regen switch will still turn on the brake lights, but you'll get no regen.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:48 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have yet to do the clutch switch yet, but does that only stop regen when in gear? If I'm neutral cruising, clutch in or out doesn't seem to matter if regen is going then (only when battery is pretty low).
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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That kind of regen (called background charging) won't be stopped by the clutch switch.
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:56 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Thanks sheepdog 44. I'll be sure to check that out.

Speaking of the hood, it doesn't open properly. When you pull the release inside it doesn't pop up. It takes one person pulling the hood up and another pulling the release to get it open.
On my cars there are rubber bumpers near the front under the hood. These adjust up and down. When I had your problem (won't open) I adjusted them up until the hood popped when the lever was pulled. Simple fix.
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:58 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks, I'll give that a try.
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You want your brake lights coming on when you are not braking?

I feel left out! I want an Insight!

I had two cars for a while! How could this possibly go worse than my Forester?!
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Old 05-06-2016, 04:34 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Daox, having owned a "Beater" insight for several years I can attest to what your pretty normal issues are

1. Your rear engine mount is worn out, even if it isn't ripped all the way through its basically failed, those mounts rarely last much past 100k and that causes more "shudder" on the road and even downright hopping off a hard launch as it progresses further.
(examine the thing and you will know what I am talking about)
I "fixed" mine temporarily by shoving some foam that normally insulates pipes into the mount and my shudder went away, I plan on using silicone RTV around the foam to complete the repair,
(filling the mount can have terrible consequences, just an FYI)

2. You likely need your egr valve and plate "fixed".

3. You may also want to perform the valve lash and clean/replace the sock as well. Valve lash & that sock can have random affects on smoothless and leanburn.

If your lazy like me, My recommendation is to run a hot air pipe from around your exhaust and cat and then up and around to the air intake.
If your car is like mine a WAI covers up lean burn issues and EGR issues.
(so you can get by with a dirty plate)

My car runs smooth on the highway but has some herky jerky in cold temps at lower speeds.

Without the WAI I have LOTS of herky jerky under most conditions.

My WAI though is just a vacuum cleaner hose jammed in tied up and run "near" the exhaust manifold (but not close enough to burn)
That isn't nearly as affective as a correctly designed metal WAI sucking air through the CAT shroud.

Next put a gallon of E85 in your next tank, if you have trouble with lean burn you should find that will solve it in of itself, but only if its warm outside
(if your tank isn't full of sludge anyway)

Your battery I can't help with, a discharge recharge is probably best, even doing it using the car helps.

On my car the battery is rather new so I have never had issues (except for cold weather issues with grounds and hot 12v wires) but that's not really "HV" battery issues.

Good Luck
Ryan

PS I also have an Insight 5mt transmission with under 40000 miles on it, includes a good rear mount ( at least it looks OK)

I can't attest to how good or useable it is, but it shouldn't have the downshift grind, if you offer some $$$ and promise to fix up your XMSN before giving it back we might have a deal.
The catch is I would still want a backup XMSN and I can fix the mount easily enough.


Last edited by rmay635703; 05-06-2016 at 04:44 PM..
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