Hey folks, I've been on EcoModder for a while now, and pretty much quite the whole time too. Now it's time to show what I have learned and where I'm at.
Brief history: started hypermiling my stock (96?) Saturn SW1 and found that it was quite easy to reach 50+MPG. That what got me started. Something still tugged at me(my consience? i dunno) and said "good job, but you're still supporting OPEC, poluting, etc.."
Around this time I began collecting WVO from folks and began stock piling in hopes of one day (a) getting a diesel vehicle and (b) using WVO for 'other then vehicle' projects-i.e. oil burner boilers, kero heaters, etc.
Then I upgraded to a 93 Geo Metro, and found that I hardly had to do anything (hypermile-wise) to gain the same 50 MPG. With a little work I easily get 60+MPG. I've pondered EV-ing the car but for now I'm holding off. Batteries for EV applications just don't have what I need.
Roughly 3 years after I began collecting WVO (3-400 gallons) I finnally found a car that was suitable (affordable, and in some sort of good condition). A 1985 Volks Wagon Jetta, diesel engine, non turbo, was sold to me by an uncle of mine for $400. With little work I was able to inspect it here in PA, and then the proccess began....
Biodiesel production was my first choice, mainly from intimedation on the WVO front. After I found out what it meant to 'modify the engine' to run off WVO, as apposed to 'modify the fuel', I abandoned the biodiesel production.
SVO, WVO, WMO, WTO, any oil for that matter just needs to be 'viscus' enough and the diesel engine WILL burn it, AND operate normal!
SOOO, you just 'modify the fuel' -by means of chemical reactions, to form 'biodiesel' (which is as viscous as normal diesel, or close enough)
OORRRR you 'modify the engine' which means taking heat from your engine and using it to heat the filtered WVO(oil) till it's as viscous as diesel.
THE LATTER OF THE 2 WAS EASIEST FOR ME! it fit my application, and after a few years of learning/studying and checking out others progress I came to the conclusion that 'modifing my engine' is much more time saving, simpler-less equipment needed, lower cost ($.01/gallon).... also it's not at all anything new, it's just been surpressed information and misleading facts, half truths, and some lies.
Biodiesel advantages
-need only 1 tank on the automobile
-seems more like 'what the car should run on' since it shares many quilities of normal petrol diesel
-just pour it in your tank and go, mabey on an older car you'll have to replace rubber fuel lines, and the fueul filter, but
then you just fill up and go.
-good for folks who can't use a wrech at all
dis advantages
-need atleast 1 water heater, several storage containers, a couple pumps, test equipment, just more processing equipment in general, compared to WVO
-Lye, sodium hydroxide... caustic chemicle in general, CAN be very dangerous.
-Methonal, well methanol is supposedly a chemical/alcohol that if spilled, even in small amounts, warrants a EPA clean up... there are procedures for the use of Ethanol, which is moonshine/pure alcohol/natural & safer, but it's a bit more involved and more complicated then Methanol use....
WVO advantages
-all that is needed is a tank to store and settle WVO/oils, a pump/air compressor to force the dirty oil through a series of filters, and a tank to fill up. that's it... the 3 basic esentials of WVO productin/refinement
-free to collect, cheap to filter, only costs encured are: electric used for pump or air compressor, filters (vehicle, boiler fuel filters, etc.), low 1 time cost of "modifying the engine", and mabey containers to store WVO/oil in (if you can't find them for free)
WVO disadvantages
-have to "modify" the engine, which is actually not very hard on most vehicles
-need 2 tanks, one for diesel, one for WVO
-Need to start the automobile on diesel, and need to turn off the car on diesel. you have to warm it up, and purge it out to ensure an easy normal start.
-if you can't afford the 'automatic' shutoff and purge system gadget, and you forget to switch back to diesel before letting the car sit for a while... well you only have to forget once to fix that! hahaha, it'll take a little while to start...
in my opinion, WVO has the better lists, so here's how i did it.
1. took my 'heater bypass' coolant line, cut it, and routed it through a heat exchanger.
(any cooant line will work BUT on a vehicle with a 'heater bypass' line, it is prefferable to tap in there. Reason is because this line will always heat up first to heat the engine, before sending heat to the cabin/driver's compartment)
the heat exchanger is out of a VW near the same year as mine, and it's used as a transmission fluid heat exchanger i believe.
2. i took the heat exchanger 'bolts' and threaded on standard IPS 90' elbows (with heat resistant epoxy), and out of those 90's i threaded barb fittings for my fuel lines
3. found a spot under the hood to install a tank, made a card board mock up, traced it onto sheet steel, folded it up like an origammi cube and welded it shut.
4. then i cut out holes for the fuel lines, near the bottom. and for the fill cap as well. i cut standard IPS fittings and welded them to my holes, put fittings in them and started running fuel lines.
5. got a $70 fuel sellector valve for Autozone. followed the directions for wireing it up, and put a switch in the dash to control which tank to use. then connected my fuel line to it, and ran fuel lines from the valve to the intake and return on the 'fuel pump/injector/ fuel intake manifold'.
6. filetered WVO , filled up my tank (which I did pressure test first) and hollar'd ''****'' then shoot.
almost 9000 miles on just WVO in a little over a year and a half. it's paid it self off. I am pleased and would like to help ANYONE WHO IS INTERESTED! Thanks to everyone who's posted info, help, and/or support! Pictures to come soon!
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