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Old 12-21-2018, 09:16 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Most of the rest of the bulbs in the car are 194's, or at least fit 194's. Offhand the map lights, dome light, center running lights, "parking" lights, license plate lights, and socket of backup lights is the same.

I've found most small, cheap, bulk-bought LEDs die very quickly, more quickly even than incandescents and I think it's heat related as it seems the brighter ones die faster. These are the most recent ones I've ordered and so far none have gone out, but I haven't tested them long-term yet. The power savings are real though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd really like to replace all of the little incandescent bulbs in the dash some day. I know Natalya has replaced many of them.

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Old 12-21-2018, 09:47 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Aren't stock taillights and backup lights around 200-250 lumens? 10 400-lumen bulbs for $6 almost sounds fishy; are they really that bright?
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:54 PM   #93 (permalink)
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They're a little brighter than the stock lights but I doubt they're as bright as they claim. They're really just quite comparable for a fraction the power.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:26 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Looking at Amazon LEDs that claim to be 1000 lumens each...realistically around 500-550 lumens per reviews. Need to measure the socket in the Insight before ordering, as well as verify my current rear view mirror measurements, since the new mirror would mount on the old. Should probably check out the write up on the regen switch so I know what wires to get as well. Brightness is more important than energy savings for reverse lights. Don't want to be hitting anything backing up at night, and the current reverse lights are next to garbage as far as light output goes.

Since the calpod clutch mod won't work, what if an arduino was programmed to get the current SOC, store it as a variable, do the normal clutch mod, send a 0% SOC to the battery to prevent assist (but no regen since clutch is in), and then when the button is pressed again send the SOC stored in the variable back to the computer to resume normal IMA functionality?
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Old 12-22-2018, 07:44 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Quote:
and I'm guessing Daox's shift knob will arrive sometime around then. Once it arrives and I figure out how it works
Here's the link to my install of Daox's first ever prototype 3-button shift knob - and it explains the functions of the buttons. I assume his current version keeps the same button pattern. My sons and I have installed the shift knob on three Insights:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post467947

And here's the link to Balto's kill switch installation, which has also worked perfectly on three Insights:

DIY Injector kill switch install. - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:22 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Looking at Amazon LEDs that claim to be 1000 lumens each...realistically around 500-550 lumens per reviews. Need to measure the socket in the Insight before ordering, as well as verify my current rear view mirror measurements, since the new mirror would mount on the old. Should probably check out the write up on the regen switch so I know what wires to get as well. Brightness is more important than energy savings for reverse lights. Don't want to be hitting anything backing up at night, and the current reverse lights are next to garbage as far as light output goes.
Yeah I'm with you 100%. There must be a product out there that isn't garbage.

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Since the calpod clutch mod won't work, what if an arduino was programmed to get the current SOC, store it as a variable, do the normal clutch mod, send a 0% SOC to the battery to prevent assist (but no regen since clutch is in), and then when the button is pressed again send the SOC stored in the variable back to the computer to resume normal IMA functionality?
An interesting idea. It may not even be necessary to store the variable, but just to have the arduino on a relay that interrupts the real signal coming from the battery for a moment. One *possible* flaw with this is that the car may not respond instantly to a change in battery state, e.g. you might have to wait a few seconds before it will start behaving as if SOC is 0. It might also put the car in forced charge. I'm not sure. Worth trying! You should also try the clutch switch and see just what it does in your car.
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Old 12-22-2018, 12:18 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Cowmeat, thanks for the links!! I actually just read through your Ron Burgundy thread yesterday and man, that was one gorgeous Insight! Too bad it just disappeared. How long did it take you to wire everything up?

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Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
An interesting idea. It may not even be necessary to store the variable, but just to have the arduino on a relay that interrupts the real signal coming from the battery for a moment. One *possible* flaw with this is that the car may not respond instantly to a change in battery state, e.g. you might have to wait a few seconds before it will start behaving as if SOC is 0. It might also put the car in forced charge. I'm not sure. Worth trying! You should also try the clutch switch and see just what it does in your car.
Won't interrupting the signal cause the IMA light to turn on? And since this would be a modification of the original clutch mod, doesn't the clutch mod prevent regen, but still allow assist (which is why the 0% SOC spoof would be necessary)?

Right now I'm at loss to figure out how to remove the lights from the rear of the Insight to measure the sockets...with the Civic I could just pull some carpeting back and voila, the lights and sockets were right there. On the Insight I can't see how to access them unless I literally remove the bumper and the entire light housing..
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Old 12-22-2018, 12:53 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Won't interrupting the signal cause the IMA light to turn on? And since this would be a modification of the original clutch mod, doesn't the clutch mod prevent regen, but still allow assist (which is why the 0% SOC spoof would be necessary)?
I'm not sure. A lot of the "integrated motor assist" really isn't all that integrated and you can change a lot of things without the ECU knowing or caring. Would really just need to test.


Quote:
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Right now I'm at loss to figure out how to remove the lights from the rear of the Insight to measure the sockets...with the Civic I could just pull some carpeting back and voila, the lights and sockets were right there. On the Insight I can't see how to access them unless I literally remove the bumper and the entire light housing..
The tail light housings have to be removed. They're held on by 3 bolt-screws (8mm / philips). One is behind the carpet, the other two are behind little black plastic covers which you can see standing from the rear of the car.

Old picture:

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Old 12-22-2018, 01:43 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Will definitely test! Still have 3 1/2 weeks left of winter break, so I should hopefully have time to get most of my mods done in between work.

Thanks! I didn't even see those plastic covers. Got the housing depths measured:
Reverse lights: 2.1" depth - 0.4" connecter = 1.7"
Brake/taillights: 2.9" depth - 0.5" connecter = 2.4"

Wasn't able to get super accurate measurements, so these numbers are slightly conservative.

Going with these: https://www.amazon.com/Rayhoo-lumens...dp/B074MWWWDP/

We'll see how they do. Doubt that they're 1100 lumens each but the reviews seem good. 1.57" long so they'll fit as well.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:57 PM   #100 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, superbrightleds lists the bulb type needed for each socket.

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