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Old 03-22-2017, 03:26 AM   #61 (permalink)
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I'd love to have Forced AutoStop on the G2...
If you key off to kill the engine it takes just too much time to restart and get the gearbox to engage when the lights go green.
It only restarts on key on in P or N so the gearbox has to reengage, which it is reluctant to do when cold(ish).
Also, then it uses the 12V battery to power everything while during AutoStop the DC-DC converter powers the 12V circuitry from the hybrid battery. Given the frequent G2 12V battery trouble I prefer the latter.

I can prolong AutoStop by switching all ventilation OFF when slowing down to a stop (while still going faster than 15 mph-ish). Once stopped you can switch it all back on, the Insight has already determined how long the AutoStop has to last and will hold it for minutes.
That works - so I have to fiddle with the vents controls every time I have to stop. If only I could hit a Hold FAS button...

I guess FAS for the G2 will be hard. I have not heard of anyone even trying it yet.

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Old 03-26-2017, 01:24 AM   #62 (permalink)
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I'm afraid of blowing the CVT. The car will Auto-Stop in neutral, can it be towed on all 4 in neutral or does the transmission spin?

I could use one of the chips I sell for the G1 Insights to trick it into Auto-Stop but like there's some more considerations. It will need a relay to switch the speed signal AND climate control signals. The switch will have to be a "maintaining" design, not a momentary, as the car restarts itself automatically. It will also need to activate the brake lights and hold them on, but I haven't even built a regular brake switch yet.

I think step one is I need to buy an EX clockspring and finally get around to doing the brake switch. An EFAS solution for this car, if it's even possible (will it kill transmission?) is going to interact with the brakes, so I might as well figure out a brake switch first.
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Old 03-26-2017, 04:04 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I had not even considered the possibility of using AutoStop while moving... That would be the ultimate Pulse&Glide mod

AFAIK the Insight can be towed in N. The CVT drums do spin but the clutch on the primary drums is disengaged and the ratio is maxed out so the drums do spin slowly.
I have tried coasting in N, engine running, as a P&G strategy at speeds round 35 mph. But the fuel consumption at those speed while engaged at constant is just double that of pure idling... as the pulse phase uses almost double the fuel, the overall consumption was a bit higher; it depletes the hybrid battery to boot, so in the end it will spend more to recharge it.

AutoStop while moving only makes sense in N. Maybe you could make N trigger FAS?
But TBH I would already be very happy if I could just hold AutoStop for longer at the lights without having to kill and restart the ventilation system. I'll keep my foot on the brakes no worries. I'd switch to N with pleasure. (That saves gas even if the engine does run BTW.)
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Old 03-31-2017, 03:03 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Today I drove it to Canada. This is my first road trip in the G2, and everything went well.

Yesterday I did an oil change (my first on the car, the oil life indicator was pretty high when I bought it so I didn't do it right then) and I used Mobil1 0W-20 fuel economy version. I really screwed up the drain bolt, but that's not important because I installed a Fumoto quick-drain valve down there anyway. I had one on my G1, it was the greatest thing ever, so I had to do it to the G2.

Oh and like the car was missing a bunch of underbody clips in the front, and the passenger side forward rubber air strake thing, I don't know what it's called, but I took it off like immediately after buying the car because it was dragging on the ground.

Anyway, I bought 6 clips from Majestic Honda so I put that rubber aero piece back because I now have clips for it, and I got to put the other clips into other places under the car. But 6 wasn't enough, I think I'll buy 6 more because there's still a bunch of slots for them that are empty. There's lots of damage to the front under-panels, the previous owner must have like driven into a sidewalk or something, I have no idea what she was doing to cause the damage down there. There's also some screws missing. Anyway, the extra clips helped out so the front aerodynamics should better.
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Old 04-12-2017, 06:44 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Can anyone recommend some kind of sealer (probably in a tube for a caulking gun) that works to fix holes in the door weather seals? There's some big holes around the driver's side door. Black is preferable, but I can take any colour. I tried GE Silicone II but it doesn't seem to stick very well.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:16 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I wonder if some of that 3M windshield urethane would work? Will take a while to dry, though.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Uret.../dp/B000RW1XCK
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:32 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I'd try some black gasket maker/sealer...
Quite tacky n WILL leave lots of smudges that won't come off..., but is flexible and grease cutting agent in it . Primarily used on inside engine parts(head, oil pan...)

Will remain flexible to a degree...
Try that ?
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:21 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I ordered a tube of the urethane, I'll try that first and see what happens.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:28 PM   #69 (permalink)
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New Bridgestone Ecopia 422 Plus tires on the front. When I bought the car 13k miles ago the front tires were a Falken and a Cooper, and both were looking like they needed to be replaced soon. The back had two new-looking Ecopia 422 Plus tires, so I left those there and then wore the front ones all the way down to the warning bars. Now the car finally has a set of 4 Ecopias. I pumped them up to 48 psi.

########



Also, like two weeks ago, I got the stuff NoD~ recommended and pumped it into the holes in my driver door weather strip. I cleaned up the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and then I used some old credit cards to try to smooth it out, but it looks pretty rough.




However, it does seem to be holding up. Water runs right off of it and it looks like it bonded well to the broken stripping. If it deteriorates or anything I'll let everyone know.

SIDE NOTE: If you own a G1 and you have a cracked lower engine mount and you don't want to spend $100 on a new one just yet, maybe you can use this stuff to temporarily fix it. I've seen people do urethane before and it went bad because they used way too hard of a compound. This stuff, even after curing, seems to remain somewhat flexible. If someone wants to do an experiment with repairing their lower mount this material could be a good candidate.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:51 PM   #70 (permalink)
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The weather stripping at the rear of my car needs some love, so I'll give it a try.

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