94 F150 Tow Rig

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Taylor95

You can get a larger throttle body (or bore out your stock one), and get performance exhaust parts for your vehicle. And you could also upgrade your ignition system. Other than that you really can't do anything else without getting inside your engine.

Edit: if you have injectors then upgrading them to 12 hole injectors might yield some results.

That's why I was thinking headers and a cat delete. The previous owner put a glasspack to dual exhaust setup, but I don't really think it's the best option for low end, so I do the front half I might redo the whole works to 2 1/4 to a single side exit, which I prefer anyway.

Any thoughts one how much to bore the throttle body? This is the one that has two throttle body inlets stacked on top of each other. I will look into injectors.

My hesitation on a cam is mainly that I don't have a garage to work in, and I have nosy neighbors who throw a fit anytime I do an oil change, let alone if they see me pulling valve covers and the intake out of my pickup. I'm going to do some serious checking over though, and If I have the slightest suspicion that an intake gasket might be needed, I will probably just go ahead and do the cam at that point as there isn't much left to do then.

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Rethinking this: I believe you have the plastic crack prone intake with coil packs. Therefore you also have a chipped computer ecm. Get a performance chip replacement optimized for towing.

Not sure if there's performance chips available, but my intake is cast aluminum.

[Shaneajanderson]

Well I had a Doh! moment just now. Probably the first thing I need to do is chuck my huge stupid belt driven fan for an electric one.

[Piotrsko]

Actually cat converter s IMPROVE exhaust flow because they heat it back up

Doesn't mean the intake is original.

Live in a HOA/condo/ apartment complex?

Cam change is done through the water pump part of the block no intake removal required. Do need to pull valve covers for lifter pushrod access

[Frank Lee]

Those Fords didn't have plastic intakes.

[Frank Lee]

I deleted the F150's fan many years ago. Never got around to installing an e-fan. 99% of the time it's just fine; on a hot summer day if I'm stuck at a long red light or doing something where I'm going too slow to move air through the radiator it will get hot. Then I open the windows and blast the heater. It's been so long I don't recall if I felt the freed-up power but it definitely made the engine quieter! It warms up to operating temp faster; mech fans are always spinning whether their clutches are engaged or not. Also couldn't make an fe claim but it has to help.

[Piotrsko]

I wasnt sure about the intake being plastic. That whole era is a bad dream for me.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Actually cat converter s IMPROVE exhaust flow because they heat it back up

Doesn't mean the intake is original.

Live in a HOA/condo/ apartment complex?

Cam change is done through the water pump part of the block no intake removal required. Do need to pull valve covers for lifter pushrod access

Worse, I had a great idea a few years back to buy a trailer house cause it was cheap living, park owners are fascists (though their yard is a total dumping ground), and I live across the street from them.

I watched a couple videos on changing the cam and it looked like you had to pull the intake to get at the lifters, or is the special tool the guy talked about not getting to pull them up through the push rod holes? (sorry I don't know the right term on that one)

Edited to add: I know for certain it's the factory intake, and I looked and there's only one aftermarket option for these and it is also aluminum.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

I deleted the F150's fan many years ago. Never got around to installing an e-fan. 99% of the time it's just fine; on a hot summer day if I'm stuck at a long red light or doing something where I'm going too slow to move air through the radiator it will get hot. Then I open the windows and blast the heater. It's been so long I don't recall if I felt the freed-up power but it definitely made the engine quieter! It warms up to operating temp faster; mech fans are always spinning whether their clutches are engaged or not. Also couldn't make an fe claim but it has to help.

I'm not sure that would work for me because a lot of what I do with this is heavy, low speed (50-55) towing in the summer time.

[Taylor95]

Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson

That's why I was thinking headers and a cat delete. The previous owner put a glasspack to dual exhaust setup, but I don't really think it's the best option for low end, so I do the front half I might redo the whole works to 2 1/4 to a single side exit, which I prefer anyway.

Any thoughts one how much to bore the throttle body? This is the one that has two throttle body inlets stacked on top of each other. I will look into injectors.

My hesitation on a cam is mainly that I don't have a garage to work in, and I have nosy neighbors who throw a fit anytime I do an oil change, let alone if they see me pulling valve covers and the intake out of my pickup. I'm going to do some serious checking over though, and If I have the slightest suspicion that an intake gasket might be needed, I will probably just go ahead and do the cam at that point as there isn't much left to do then.




Not sure if there's performance chips available, but my intake is cast aluminum.

Cat delete is illegal. I wouldn't do it. They also play an important role in reducing vehicle emissions. There are high flow cats if you are interested.

Easiest way to get a bigger throttle body is to buy an aftermarket one that has already been bored out. If that isn't an option, you can take it to a machine shop. Many throttle bodies are tapered at the bottom. A conservative bore would be to remove the taper. Or you could reasonably go a little bit bigger. For example, the stock throttle body on my jeep had a 60 mm opening and was tapered to 55 mm at the bottom. I bought a bored out throttle body from a machinist for my vehicle that was 62 mm all the way through. It gave me a huge increase in throttle response a little bit more horsepower and torque. I think it improved my mpg as well, but I didn't test for that scientifically. If you want you could email the guy I bought the throttle body from and ask him to bore out yours. The bonus is that he makes throttle plates. You would have to make your own if you did it by yourself. It cost me around $130 or so for the throttle body.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Taylor95

Cat delete is illegal. I wouldn't do it. They also play an important role in reducing vehicle emissions. There are high flow cats if you are interested.

Easiest way to get a bigger throttle body is to buy an aftermarket one that has already been bored out. If that isn't an option, you can take it to a machine shop. Many throttle bodies are tapered at the bottom. A conservative bore would be to remove the taper. Or you could reasonably go a little bit bigger. For example, the stock throttle body on my jeep had a 60 mm opening and was tapered to 55 mm at the bottom. I bought a bored out throttle body from a machinist for my vehicle that was 62 mm all the way through. It gave me a huge increase in throttle response a little bit more horsepower and torque. I think it improved my mpg as well, but I didn't test for that scientifically. If you want you could email the guy I bought the throttle body from and ask him to bore out yours. The bonus is that he makes throttle plates. You would have to make your own if you did it by yourself. It cost me around $130 or so for the throttle body.

I know cat delete is illegal, I don't drive like a moron, and there's no emissions testing in my state, so I'm not worried about getting checked, and I'm not a tree hugger that thinks CO2 is going to destroy the world.

That said, I may buy a throttle body, I found aftermarket ones, and I doubt I can get mine machined for what they cost.