03-13-2010, 02:50 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Any tips for a Delivery Guy?
Hey everyone. This is my first post. I've been lurking for awhile and figured it was time to get to know you all. So I just bought my Honda Civic on Wednesday. It's an automatic 2000 model and I was told it was the "VP" (Value Package). I'm not sure if VP means anything so if anyone knows what this might actually be designated as (DX maybe?) I'd appreciate the info.
I've been reading the beginner stuff and doing my best to figure that out. I did pump up my tires to 42 psi (cause 44 just scared me). Still working on my first full tank so we'll see how that goes. But I have some questions.
#1. Since I'm delivering chinese food in town (only on the highway maybe 10-15% of the time) and driving an automatic, what is the best case senario for my MPG? From what I've been reading my job is probably the worst possible for MPG, but I buy my own gas so it would make a big difference in my life if I could even squeeze 35mpg out of this car.
#2. As I understand it my Honda is a sixth generation Civic. I noticed some of you are driving 2000 models. Is there anything different between the 96-2000? Anything you guys could offer as owners of a 2000 or 6th gen. that you've learned?
#3. Pulse and Glide. Ok, I've tried this a few times and can see that it helps maintain the momentum, but I'm scared to death I'm going to tear up my transmission switching to neutral from D4 while driving and back again. Am I just worrying too much or is this a valid concern?
That's about it. I really appreciate any help you guys have for a new guy. I'm really excited to learn from all of you.
Thanks
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03-13-2010, 03:13 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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(:
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No idling, no warming up, take weight out. I personally wouldn't p&g an a/t; I'd learn what the best accel rate is, and where to momentarily lift the throttle to induce an upshift, and what is the slowest speed it'll cruise at in top gear.
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03-13-2010, 04:34 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A hood blanket to keep the engine area hot between journeys, grill block too, especially since your in Illinois. You ECU will initiate auto choke much more than is necessary, figuring out how to fool it would be good too.
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03-13-2010, 11:45 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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epic stock master
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a lot of people here moved closer to work and walk to work.
you could do it too. but i wouldn't deliver over a block away.
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03-14-2010, 12:30 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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38 time NHRA/IHRA Champ
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Do not be afraid to go up to the max tire pressure...not much ride difference between 42 and 44 psi. I have also found that those rim damaging chuck holes will often not damage a rim or tire when pumped up to the max...with less air pressure you bend a rim AND hurt a tire!
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03-14-2010, 12:43 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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@Frank Lee
I'm not one to take much time warming up the car in the morning or between deliveries. Then again I've always been told it's best for the car.
What about idling at stop lights. I'm trying to learn how to time them (is there a guide on that?) but I still end up sitting at a lot of them and I'm sure that adds up. Would that be the time to put it in neutral or does it even make a difference?
@blueflame
It's still a little chilly so I can see the hood blanket helping. Grill block means to put something behind the grill to keep the airflow out, right? What are the chances I'm going to over-heat my car doing that? Does blocking inhibit anything else in the car(Air?)? Also, what about when it starts to get consistently warm again? Would the blanket still be useful or is it getting too hot at that point?
I'm not familiar with "auto-choke" but I get the concept of fooling the computer. How do I learn to fool it?
@luvit
About once a month I think "Man I could save a lot of money on gas if I delivered with a scooter. And then I remember I'd have to balance 4 bags at once while driving it. Ah well. I can dream.
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03-14-2010, 12:49 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATaylorRacing
Do not be afraid to go up to the max tire pressure...not much ride difference between 42 and 44 psi. I have also found that those rim damaging chuck holes will often not damage a rim or tire when pumped up to the max...with less air pressure you bend a rim AND hurt a tire!
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This is the first time I've even been close to the max pressure with one of my cars. My father, who knew nothing about cars, used to say, "Eh...keep em' about 32 psi and you'll be fine". I can definitely tell a huge difference in the traction I'm getting even at 42. Its like I can "feel" the road a lot better. It was raining tonight and I wasn't skidding much at all (even when I was trying a little) which is a big change from when I was delivering with my Saturn at the old 32psi.
Here's a question though. I've seen on some forums people are getting theirs up to 60psi even. Do they have some kind of super-tires or are they just a little bit crazy? Also, I recently saw a tire that claimed to be fuel-saving. Something like 2,500 mi over the life of the tire. When I think about it, that doesn't actually sound like much at all. Is there a "best fuel-efficiency tire" I should look for?
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03-14-2010, 01:17 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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(:
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Those people saying to pre-warm are wrong. Maybe that was true in 1906 when that "T" didn't want to go right off (or they didn't know how to work the spark and throttle advance levers) but it's not true now.
I'd leave it in D at lights; about the time you select N the light will change.
42, 44, same difference. I don't go past 50; it's a diminishing returns thing and riding like crap does nothing on the car any favors.
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03-14-2010, 04:44 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beardedproductions
@Frank Lee
I'm not one to take much time warming up the car in the morning or between deliveries. Then again I've always been told it's best for the car.
What about idling at stop lights. I'm trying to learn how to time them (is there a guide on that?) but I still end up sitting at a lot of them and I'm sure that adds up. Would that be the time to put it in neutral or does it even make a difference?
@blueflame
It's still a little chilly so I can see the hood blanket helping. Grill block means to put something behind the grill to keep the airflow out, right? What are the chances I'm going to over-heat my car doing that? Does blocking inhibit anything else in the car(Air?)? Also, what about when it starts to get consistently warm again? Would the blanket still be useful or is it getting too hot at that point?
I'm not familiar with "auto-choke" but I get the concept of fooling the computer. How do I learn to fool it?
@luvit
About once a month I think "Man I could save a lot of money on gas if I delivered with a scooter. And then I remember I'd have to balance 4 bags at once while driving it. Ah well. I can dream.
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If you wish to ecomod these areas some understanding of cars is required or you could overheat your Honda. Not losing heat between deliveries will help FE a lot. I'd start by reading past threads where most of this has been discussed. I've never had a Civic
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03-14-2010, 07:36 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A grill block goes in front of the grill, not behind it. A radiator block goes behind the grill. A grill block helps force the air up and over the car for aerodynamic advantage, while still allowing some air to the radiator, but not much.
Auto-choke was used in older cars with carburetors - with fuel injection the computers sprays more fuel to increase the ratio of fuel to air. To trick the computer you would have to make it think that the engine is warmer. It has sensors in the coolant and in other places.
The best thing you can do is to learn how to adjust your driving. Don't power your way up to a light and then hit and hold the brakes. Watch ahead of you and see how far ahead the light is green. If it's red, don't power up to it, let off the gas and coast up to the light or the car in front of you before braking, or if it's about to change, brake early and then as the traffic starts rolling, you are already traveling at the right speed, and you don't have to come to a complete stop.
The biggest FE killer is starting from a complete stop, whether from a traffic light or from park. It takes a lot of power to get a car rolling from a dead stop, and every time you bring it to a stop, you have to start over.
Don't ever "punch it". That will kill your FE. Accelerate smoothly from a stop, and when you are up to speed, ease off and see how far you can go before you have to hit the accelerator again.
Make it a game. The winners are always rolling without ever hitting the gas or the brakes. The less you use either pedal, the more FE points you rack up.
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