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Old 03-14-2010, 10:12 AM   #11 (permalink)
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About once a month I think "Man I could save a lot of money on gas if I delivered with a scooter. And then I remember I'd have to balance 4 bags at once while driving it. Ah well. I can dream.
Can't you get a rack like bicycles used to have and use bungee cords???

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Old 03-14-2010, 11:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Can't you get a rack like bicycles used to have and use bungee cords???
My bicycle has "Daytrekker" saddle bags, which are plenty large enough for four bags of Chinese food. But I see the appeal of four wheels and an enclosed cabin.

When I have to drive an automatic, I shift to N and roll up to a red light. You'll find it uses much less brake effort than leaving it in D, therefore saving gas and wear on the brakes.

Didn't IsaacCarlson on this forum wire up a set of switches to control his automatic transmission? I dunno if you can fool a Honda TCU, but it's worth investigating.

Considering your driving profile, weight reduction will be helpful. Start with easy things, like rear floormats, rear seat cushions, and carpet in the trunk. Work your way up to harder things, like removing half a gallon (4lbs!) from the washer fluid tank.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You don't have to shift to neutral for pulse and glide. Anyone who does that is taking hypermiling too far.

Overairing the tires is foolish too. A few psi might be OK, but remember you are causing uneven wear, which means tires don't last as long. Have you looked at the price of good tires?

Go to tirerack.com and check out prices, and look up automatic transmission rebuild costs while you're at it. Maybe call a body shop to find out the cost of repairs when your high psi/low traction causes you to crash.
Then you'll realize how stupid it is to try to wring those last 2 mpg out of the car by doing these things.

I propose a #1 rule of hypermiling: Keep your eye on the big picture
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It has been well-documented on EcoModder that inflation up to the sidewall max tire pressure does not cause uneven or excessive tire wear.

Also, how could you say that shifting to N is not required for P&G? Of course it is. But I wasn't recommending P&G, nor would I in an automatic. Coasting to a stop in Neutral, though, makes perfect sense. The alternative is to sit there in D like a moron, working your engine against the brakes until the light turns green.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The heaviest item in your trunk by far is your full sized spare. Get that out before you start saving 1lb here and there with the mats! If you're driving pretty much locally you should be fine, or switch to a doughnut spare/carry fix a flat if you're worried about it. I used to keep my spare in the garage except for going on long highway trips, I'd toss it in the trunk.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I don't know that staying in D at a light necessarily uses more fuel than N. After all, you haven't changed the throttle position, and the engine is turning at a lower RPM.

If you remove the spare, you might as well remove the jack and and lug wrench and save a few more lbs.

In my old Civic the back seat was pretty easy to remove, and the passenger seat isn't that hard either. Probably more effective than removing floor mats, and since you are getting in and out of your car all the time you might want the floor mats there to protect the carpet from the dirt being tracked in.

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If you look through the pages of this site you will find that the most mileage is gained from changing the way you drive. Aero, weight, induction, etc., mods won't make as much difference as slowing down and smoothing out your driving, but they will benefit you after you have changed your habits.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I don't know that staying in D at a light necessarily uses more fuel than N. After all, you haven't changed the throttle position, and the engine is turning at a lower RPM.
I haven't studied it scientifically. I do know, though, that the Scangauge reports the 2010 Accord idles on 25% less fuel in N than in D. Has anyone else with a ScanGauge and an automatic compared gph in N vs D?

I also know that Chevy trucks with the 4AT require much less brake pedal effort when gently braking to a stop in N instead of D. Therefore, the engine is using more fuel and producing more torque in D than N.
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I haven't studied it scientifically.
Says it all...
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguitarguy View Post
In my old Civic the back seat was pretty easy to remove, and the passenger seat isn't that hard either. Probably more effective than removing floor mats, and since you are getting in and out of your car all the time you might want the floor mats there to protect the carpet from the dirt being tracked in.
Passenger seat seems like a gimme. Saves weight, and gives you room to put your deliveries on the floor within easy reach.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguitarguy View Post
I don't know that staying in D at a light necessarily uses more fuel than N. After all, you haven't changed the throttle position, and the engine is turning at a lower RPM.
Your engine is turning at lower RPM because the transmission is churning fluid around in the torque converter instead of sitting in neutral. Several people on this forum have confirmed with their Scangauge or MPGuino that the engine uses less fuel in neutral.

That said, I wouldn't use shift back and forth unless you know the light is a long one, and never for P&G. The auto in my Ranger had to go back into the shop after being shifted back into Drive during P&G.

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Last edited by Clev; 03-14-2010 at 03:46 PM.. Reason: typos again.
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