Automatic alternator cut out/regen braking

[diesel_john]

some alternators are one wire everything is inside

but most energize through the light or resistor if the light burns out or by the computer, on the first alternators if the light burned out they quit charging.

"Has anyone safely used this method (for turning off alternator, manually or auto) and what is the avg current of said field. Link to switch again and THANKS!!"

it wouldn't hurt the alternator, what about all the electronic else where?



if i put a 140 amp alternator on the drive shaft, that's over 2 HP, i will feel that baby when i hit the regen button.

[psmithrt]

Originally Posted by s2man

My plan was to disable the alt. except when NC or decelerating (the automatic trans keeps the rpm @1100 during NC on hills). I hadn't thought about the higher engine efficiency during acceleration. Hmmm. I'll keep that in mind if the "free" energy isn't enough to keep the battery charged.

I like your idea best of most posted. That is to charge whenever accelerator is off. You stated you have the parts in an earlier post. Can I ask how you plan to cut of alternator with your microswitch.
Also don't quote me on efficiency of engine while accelerating. I believe that is probably it's most innefficient time. I only meant that an ICE is most efficient at WOT and fully loaded. Such as a generator charging a large bank of batteries. Not a car engine while attaining RPM.
I think your idea is a great one if well thought out. I'm just curious how you plan to implement it.

As far as the PCV catch can design I used it can be found here::

http://www.himacresearch.com/books/hydro8.html

Use a wide mouth Ball canning jar and lid. Instead of little V8 can use an empty small tomato paste can. It is actually kind of a cheap knock off of one I seen selling for $150

[s2man]

I just suggested someone else put *their* microswitch on the throttle - I don't have one. I bought a toggle switch, which I intend to mount on the shifter so it will be handy when I go in and out of neutral. I've just got to find time to install it. (Where do I get more time?)

I don't need to take your word for engine efficiency at higher throttle positions. The BSFC maps bear that out. Sure, that's a bad mileage time, but the engine is running efficiently. I definitely won't be charging while at idle.

[AXMonster]

All the parts have arrived for the automatic electronic alternator/regen conversion.

Time to build it

[psmithrt]

Has anyone considered which deep cycle battery they are going to use because I don't think a regular starting battery will last very long??

[AXMonster]

I'll be letting the alternator cut back in at 12.2 volts, which equates to 50% charge.
That's if the regen charging isn't sufficient to keep the battery topped up.
So the battery will never discharge less than 50%, hopefully allowing the battery to live a bit longer than if it was fully discharged then recharged.

[tasdrouille]

Ax, it would be extremely nice of you if you could document the process. I'm sure it would benefit a lot of people.

[s2man]

Originally Posted by psmithrt

Has anyone considered which deep cycle battery they are going to use because I don't think a regular starting battery will last very long??

I'm running an AGM battery.

Even deep-cycle wet batteries shouldn't be discharged past 50%.

[AXMonster]

Circuits are built & ready to fit.
Both are supplied with relays fitted to the PCBs. Either can switch the alternator back in.

The system requires 6 wires:

Ignition switched positive
Earth (negative)
Positive voltage sensing wire to battery
Injector supply sensing wire (back probed from ECU output)
2 Field supply wires from & to alternator.

The field supply to the alternator needs to be cut and diverted to the control circuit, otherwise its easily removed.

The point at which the duty cycle is set to switch the alternator back on is programmable by push buttons on the circuit, as is the hysteresis. The duty cycle is displayed on a pair of 8 segment LED displays, which is on a long ribbon cable for easy dash mounting. The display also functions as the programming interface.

The voltage switch point & hysteresis is adjustable by 2 potentiometers on the voltage switching circuit board, and can be set to any voltage easily with a multimeter. An LED indicates when the voltage based switching circuit is operating.

Oh, and the LED duty cycle display is self dimming at night with a variable brightness control!

[s2man]

Awesome job, AX.