Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > DIY / How-to
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-13-2008, 04:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: california
Posts: 1,329
Thanks: 24
Thanked 161 Times in 107 Posts
I still think you are better off just running a deep cycle battery charged at home every night and completely eliminate the alternator. 100 miles range is good enough for me 99% of the time.

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 03-13-2008, 07:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 154

Nerdcycle - '81 Honda CM400E
Motorcycle
90 day: 61.16 mpg (US)

Trouble - '06 Kawasaki Ninja
90 day: 74.69 mpg (US)

Edna - '13 Nissan LEAF SV
Last 3: 126.4 mpg (US)

Tank - '20 Ford Expedition Limited
Last 3: 17.4 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I've posted this in another thread, but it's the same idea. If you MUST recharge the battery on the go instead of like tjts1 suggests doing, belt the alternator to a driveshaft and only energize the coils with the brake lights. That's REAL regen braking. You'd only be charging when you're trying to stop when you're trying to bleed off energy anyway and you could still put in a switch to kick it in full time if the battery got too low. The only problem I see is possiby the speed the driveshafts turning could be a lot different than the engine, but that just requires a different sized pulley on the alternator.
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2008, 06:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
Liberti
 
LostCause's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: California
Posts: 504

Thunderbird - '96 Ford Thunderbird
90 day: 27.75 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
I'd love a write up if anyone has success.

I figure the easiest way would be to switch the alternator fuse on/off with a microswitch attached to the brake. Every time the brake is depressed, the fuse contact is closed and the alternator starts functioning again.

Low battery voltage can be solved by monitoring and using a switch to permanently engage the fuse.

- LostCause
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2008, 06:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
British Ecomod Hypermiler
 
AXMonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Coast, England
Posts: 101

The AXe - SOLD - '97 Citroen Citroen AX 1.1i 5 Door
90 day: 46.78 mpg (US)

Foci - '03 Ford Ford Focus Tdci Ghia Estate
90 day: 64.37 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by extragoode View Post
I've posted this in another thread, but it's the same idea. If you MUST recharge the battery on the go instead of like tjts1 suggests doing, belt the alternator to a driveshaft and only energize the coils with the brake lights. That's REAL regen braking. You'd only be charging when you're trying to stop when you're trying to bleed off energy anyway and you could still put in a switch to kick it in full time if the battery got too low. The only problem I see is possiby the speed the driveshafts turning could be a lot different than the engine, but that just requires a different sized pulley on the alternator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostCause View Post
I'd love a write up if anyone has success.

I figure the easiest way would be to switch the alternator fuse on/off with a microswitch attached to the brake. Every time the brake is depressed, the fuse contact is closed and the alternator starts functioning again.

Low battery voltage can be solved by monitoring and using a switch to permanently engage the fuse.

- LostCause
Some good ideas, but I want a system that I DON'T have to plug into the domestic power supply after each journey. If I had that then I may as well have an EV I don't think there would be enough braking time during a normal drive cycle to keep the battery fully charged..... unless each wheel had an alternator that was energised during the first stage of braking, and a second stage actuated the hydraulic brakes (two stage brake pedal)?

And why only regen when braking? I tend to use over-run deceleration more than braking. As the engine is already slowing the vehicle then why not regen during this phase? Of course this will also work when braking
__________________
1997 Citroen AX 1.1i SPI
2003 Ford Focus 1.8 Tdci estate
Ecomods: See my garage



  Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2008, 03:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
I"m not lurking!
 
s2man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 128

Porthos - '96 Chevrolet Cavalier
90 day: 31.3 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AXMonster View Post
And why only regen when braking? I tend to use over-run deceleration more than braking. As the engine is already slowing the vehicle then why not regen during this phase? Of course this will also work when braking
My thinking too. I'd put the microswitch on the throttle. 0 throttle = charge. Besides charging while decelerating, that would also charge during my neutral coasts on the hills where the stupid a/t is pushing the rpm's up around 1100. I'd also add a parallel switch so you can energize at will (eg the battery is low, headlights or fan on, etc)

I've bought the parts for a manual version (wires, switch and ammeter). I'll have to remember to switch it on when I'm coasting. I've already tested to verify the engine runs ok on 12V (some ECU's prefer the 14.5V from the alternator). I intended to do a highway test to verify it also likes 12V when under load. But my daughter (she used to own the car) said she drove it 60 miles at night without the alternator, and she had no issues with the engine running poorly.
__________________
Roll on,
Stew

  Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2008, 05:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
British Ecomod Hypermiler
 
AXMonster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: South Coast, England
Posts: 101

The AXe - SOLD - '97 Citroen Citroen AX 1.1i 5 Door
90 day: 46.78 mpg (US)

Foci - '03 Ford Ford Focus Tdci Ghia Estate
90 day: 64.37 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Sounds like a plan S2man

I've ordered the parts I need for my automatic system. I'm too lazy to flick switches

Let us know how it goes.
__________________
1997 Citroen AX 1.1i SPI
2003 Ford Focus 1.8 Tdci estate
Ecomods: See my garage



  Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2008, 12:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
EV test pilot
 
bennelson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Oconomowoc, WI, USA
Posts: 4,435

Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

S10 - '95 Chevy S10
90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

The Wife's Car - Plug-in Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
90 day: 78.16 mpg (US)
Thanks: 17
Thanked 663 Times in 388 Posts
I love the idea of being able to "turn off" the alternator.

Simple question - how does one do that?

When I took the Metro engine out, it looks like it's just one big power cable that goes from the battery to the alternator.

Are we talking about disconnecting that cable, or something internal to the alternator?

If I just wanted to test the effect of the alternator on fuel economy, could I just disconnect that big alternator cable?
__________________


300mpg.org Learn how to BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC CAR CHEAP
My YouTube Videos
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2008, 01:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
Depends on the Day
 
RH77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kansas City Area
Posts: 1,761

Teggy - '98 Acura Integra LS
Sports Cars
90 day: 32.74 mpg (US)

IMA - '10 Honda Insight EX
Team Honda
90 day: 34.76 mpg (US)

Tessie - '06 Acura TSX Base
90 day: 28.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 31
Thanked 41 Times in 35 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2man View Post
My thinking too. I'd put the microswitch on the throttle. 0 throttle = charge. Besides charging while decelerating, that would also charge during my neutral coasts on the hills where the stupid a/t is pushing the rpm's up around 1100. I'd also add a parallel switch so you can energize at will (eg the battery is low, headlights or fan on, etc)

I've bought the parts for a manual version (wires, switch and ammeter). I'll have to remember to switch it on when I'm coasting. I've already tested to verify the engine runs ok on 12V (some ECU's prefer the 14.5V from the alternator). I intended to do a highway test to verify it also likes 12V when under load. But my daughter (she used to own the car) said she drove it 60 miles at night without the alternator, and she had no issues with the engine running poorly.
I really like this idea -- I'm looking forward to see if it yields some positive results (may try it myself). I have an ancient batt, though... It just may do it in (it's overdue, best I can tell is 6-years).

RH77
__________________
“If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein

_
_
  Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2008, 09:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
Awesomeness personified
 
AndrewJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 642

Harold - '94 Honda Civic CX
90 day: 54.51 mpg (US)

Margot - '08 Surly Big Dummy
Thanks: 0
Thanked 28 Times in 18 Posts
Send a message via AIM to AndrewJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
Simple question - how does one do that?

When I took the Metro engine out, it looks like it's just one big power cable that goes from the battery to the alternator.

Are we talking about disconnecting that cable, or something internal to the alternator?

If I just wanted to test the effect of the alternator on fuel economy, could I just disconnect that big alternator cable?
you're alternator should have some smaller wires plugged into it somewhere. Those wires comprise the field circuit. The field circuit is what "powers up" the alternator. If you break the field circuit, you turn the alternator off. When you complete the circuit, the alternator resumes its normal functioning.
__________________
"I got 350 heads on a 305 engine. I get 10 miles to the gallon. I ain't got no good intentions." - The Drive By Truckers.

  Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2008, 11:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oneida N.y.
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Would simply interupting this field coil wire actually turn alt off and on. I think one of the small wires is for the dash light correct? How much juice goes through this field wire? My thought is to just interupt during acceleration like some do with a/c. I know it would only save a little, but would like to use this switch for both if current not too high.

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Proposed braking test: comparing tire pressure @ 50 psi vs 35 brucepick EcoModding Central 55 06-11-2011 08:29 PM
Engine braking without using fuel idea Dane-ger EcoModding Central 38 02-04-2010 10:35 AM
Win an EM Sticker: guess Dad's mileage (Toyota Corolla automatic). Ends Jan 13. MetroMPG Hypermiling / EcoDriver's Ed 51 02-07-2008 09:02 AM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com