Baby template car for DARKO 2016

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Speaking of which, I'm trying to keep the car on the road I'd like to haul my 1/3rd model on. I'm starting to think I should park it and save the money to rent a pickup.

I could make the model recyclable and rent one way, then take a bus home.

As soon as you as you can finalize the footprint of the model,get some images to DARKO so they can figure out how to lash it down to the load cell troughs.They'll need some lead time to figure it out.Fun!

[freebeard]

The only thing in question is the scale. I was thinking 1/3, to compare with your'n. 1/4 would be less materials.

I'm now past thinking about renting a pickup.We need to see wake-filling on a
Beetle body (someone has to do it). And I may be past the unreliable part. I took the car to the shop and they replaced the fuel pump with one that didn't look right and the lever arm broke as soon as they started it up. The second one had the fuel lines hooked up backward (because it was also not a direct replacement) and it fell apart in his hands when he tried to reverse the connection. So the third one looks right (it has the gold-anodized dome on top) and seem to be working.

I guess I'd gotten used to reliable transportation.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by freebeard

The only thing in question is the scale. I was thinking 1/3, to compare with your'n. 1/4 would be less materials.

I'm now past thinking about renting a pickup.We need to see wake-filling on a
Beetle body (someone has to do it). And I may be past the unreliable part. I took the car to the shop and they replaced the fuel pump with one that didn't look right and the lever arm broke as soon as they started it up. The second one had the fuel lines hooked up backward (because it was also not a direct replacement) and it fell apart in his hands when he tried to reverse the connection. So the third one looks right (it has the gold-anodized dome on top) and seem to be working.

I guess I'd gotten used to reliable transportation.

It's gonna have to be at least 1/3rd-scale or we'll never see a critical Reynolds number and accurate Cd.

[aerohead]

*I sledge-hammered out what concrete I had in the shop where the T-100 mods will be created.
*Then I dug out the compacted rock sub layer with a wrecking bar.
*The concrete and rock became part of the driveway where one might have been 'stuck in the mud' before,carried out in half-5-gallon bucket loads.
*My 'indoor' oil-change pit is being expanded to create a larger pit,integrated into a level slab for taking measurements, fabrication,and installation.
*The dirt is becoming backfill for my earth-sheltered shack.
*Right now the pit is W= 36" X D= 14" X L= 108".
*I pulled the T-100 in over it Wednesday and crawled in for a look-see.
*It's better than I've ever had,but I'm going to expand the length to 144" and deepen it a bit more,then 'retest.'
*Since the excavation is 'indoors,' all the digging is by hand,in hard clay (gumbo).
*The loose plan,is to have everything concreted in by the first of March.
*At this time,I'll fall off the face of the Earth and disappear into full-time fabrication mode.
*In the meantime,I'll get everything I can think of online before I cutout.
*Right now,the passive solar shop area is staying well above outdoor ambient temps and this should improve as mods to the shop envelope evolve.I should be able to sling fiberglass, Bondo,and paint regardless of outdoor conditions.
(you rich guys,enjoy your hydraulic lifts!)

[freebeard]

Makes my back hurt just thinking about it.

I always liked the grease pit in the movie California Kid.

[rumdog]

Pasive solar shop eh? Sounds good any pics? I know my greenhouse can be 20 to 25 degrees above outside in the winter . (Lattitude 51ish) . Did i read that right, 14 inches deep? I guess just enough to lie down and get the work done, helps when vehicle is low. Interesting as i am concreting my shop floor this week, and thought about a pit. Dont think i will, but the heated slab should be nice to work on. (Looking at solar evac tubes to heat it)

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by rumdog

Pasive solar shop eh? Sounds good any pics? I know my greenhouse can be 20 to 25 degrees above outside in the winter . (Lattitude 51ish) . Did i read that right, 14 inches deep? I guess just enough to lie down and get the work done, helps when vehicle is low. Interesting as i am concreting my shop floor this week, and thought about a pit. Dont think i will, but the heated slab should be nice to work on. (Looking at solar evac tubes to heat it)

I'll do ecomodder a big favor by not posting images.Members who've been here will understand.
As the deciduous trees continue to lose their leaves I'll be seeing higher delta-T's between indoor/outdoor and I'm likin' things pretty well as it is.And there's more fenestration coming.
At 14-inches (taller than my car ramps),I could work under the vehicles okay right now,but more depth would be better for my back, which is pretty tore up after decades of construction work.I'm shooting for fully upright sitting,while on an adjustable-back support creeper.
I'll dig some more,pull the truck back in and see what that feels like.
Some Formular rigid foam would be nice under the concrete.
Your greenhouse sounds great!

[freebeard]

That makes more sense than digging it out so you have to stand up all the time.

You'll need a smooth floor for the creeper. Are you going to pour walls or use cinder block, or ???

[aardvarcus]

Extruded polystyrene and concrete, now you are speaking my language. I don't know what (if anything) you were thinking for the side walls, but 4" blocks dry stacked on the edges of your pit with surface bonding cement on the inside faces for strength would give a nice finished wall to your pit without too much effort.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by freebeard

That makes more sense than digging it out so you have to stand up all the time.

You'll need a smooth floor for the creeper. Are you going to pour walls or use cinder block, or ???

Once the bottom pad is placed,I'll tie in the vertical steel reinforcement, make a reinforced plywood form for the inner face of the walls,up level to the top of the upper slab elevation and pour all that as a monolith.
Then I'll have the elevation established for the rest of the flat work.
I'm gonna go ahead and run some conduit and at least a double-gang electrical box into one wall for power tools and lighting.
And a sump pit at one corner in case a Tsunami hits.