basjoosing the Toyota T-100 (articulated front wheel skirts)

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by aerohead

Right now there is a single tension spring at the lower rear of the superstructure,bridging across to the inner face of the wheelhouse radius.
I might add a bungee at the front,as, in Conehead parlance,it's a little 'flopzoidial.'

With only one restraint, I'd put it at the front.
If you can get the front end close to the truck's body, the wind will do the rest.

[Varn]

It is interesting to see central position of the single roller and how the suspension geometry causes the tire to interact with the skirt. It really is only contacting the tire at the shoulder where the rubber is thicker and not at the thin sidewall.

You have to figure that the only time the wheel hits the roller is at speeds of less than 20 mph maybe less than 10.

Thanks for sharing.

[Sven7]

Nice yob. A couple thoughts.

-I would have thought the roller would do more good down in the middle where the tread is hitting the structure during turns.

-Do you have a game plan for returning airflow to the body side or is it just going to dump off like that?

Anyway, I like to see what you've done. This mod is looking easier and easier as more people do it. The Probe should see one in the not too distant future; a local surplus store has a few extra long hinges!

Keep it up.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Nice yob. A couple thoughts.

-I would have thought the roller would do more good down in the middle where the tread is hitting the structure during turns.

-Do you have a game plan for returning airflow to the body side or is it just going to dump off like that?

Anyway, I like to see what you've done. This mod is looking easier and easier as more people do it. The Probe should see one in the not too distant future; a local surplus store has a few extra long hinges!

Keep it up.

I experimented with 6-locations for the roller.The final 'highest' position provides just enough wheel-flop clearance at lock-to-lock,without the panel displacing any more than necessary for clearance.
I'd like to do basjoos' double roller setup and will when there's more time.
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As far as the air extraction,it's an unknown quantity.Since the wheel wells were already a location for engine bay air to escape,I just left the trailing edge of the skirt wide open.
I'm concerned about engine cooling at Bonneville,as she'll be at sustained W.O.T. for quite awhile and this opening is a concession to engine survival.
With the skirt in place,and the wheelhouse rear edge radii underneath,escaping air will be forced to exit parallel to the body sides.It may produce some wind shear right there.The gill slits on the Trans Am Firebird increased drag.It could be the same on the T-100.Hard to measure without a tunnel.
For 'daily-driving' the skirt could be sealed.I'd run them lower,but we have high curbs in Denton,and in the midst of parallel parking there's a risk of tearing them off.
Perhaps,by arresting the transverse air jets which erupt from the open wheelhouse,the skirt will show some net benefit by forcing the flow along the sides.We'll see.

[basjoos]

Originally Posted by euromodder

With only one restraint, I'd put it at the front.
If you can get the front end close to the truck's body, the wind will do the rest.

I mounted a spring at each lower corner for a total of two springs, each attached to the closest inside point on the wheel well. I ended up switching to fairly stout spring as the weaker springs that I initially started with allowed the covers to oscillate at speeds over 70mph.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by basjoos

I ended up switching to fairly stout spring as the weaker springs that I initially started with allowed the covers to oscillate at speeds over 70mph.

Phil will be doing 130+ mph ...

The Bonneville run is straight with minimal steering once lined up.

How about fixing the covers during the run ?
Some tie wraps could do the job.
And a cutter to remove them again after the run.

[jime57]

Originally Posted by aerohead

I'm concerned about engine cooling at Bonneville,as she'll be at sustained W.O.T. for quite awhile and this opening is a concession to engine survival.
With the skirt in place,and the wheelhouse rear edge radii .

You might want to consider adding a thicker radiator. With so many race cars out there, these thicker radiators have become more available and cheaper. Since they mount to the stock locations they are easy to install. They improve cooling significantly. Try some google searches.

[Big Dave]

Watching this like a hawk.

When I went to a 225-75x16 front I opened up way too much of the wheel well - letting it act like a parachute.

If it holds together at Bonneville, it'll last til the next ice age on the road.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Phil will be doing 130+ mph ...

The Bonneville run is straight with minimal steering once lined up.

How about fixing the covers during the run ?
Some tie wraps could do the job.
And a cutter to remove them again after the run.

I have considered this from before I ever got started.I have Dzus weld plates and fasteners which I might be able to rivet in place.Or I could just screw the silly things for the runs.I can't have anything in the truck when I run that could become a missile or impalement device if things went bad.I may be able to bolt an ammo box to the floor,with a caribiner to secure the latch.That might pass tech inspection and allow for some tools.A coin would work with the Dzus fasteners and I could zip that into a firesuit pocket.Details!

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by jimepting

You might want to consider adding a thicker radiator. With so many race cars out there, these thicker radiators have become more available and cheaper. Since they mount to the stock locations they are easy to install. They improve cooling significantly. Try some google searches.

Jim,that's a good idea and I'd sure like to do it,but time is not on my side for all the other tasks which need to be performed.
I remeasured my core,and recalculated with Korff's cooling system minimums,and the trashcan lid is right on the money for open area.
I'm just gonna go for it.
I located,removed,and purchased a blower fan from a wrecked T-100 this morning.I'll have it running and if the temp gauge starts to go north,I'll go to full heat,and full blower fan,send the heat out the defroster vents and crack the windows to help the radiator.
I did this for Vail Pass(10,800 ') last September pulling the trailer.