Ben Nelson's Electro-Metro Build thread

[WaxyChicken]

it would also make a cool turn signal.

[bennelson]

Just got a book from the library - HOW TO CONVERT TO AN ELECTRIC CAR by Ted Lucas and Fred Riess.

It is copyright 1980, so some of the information is older, which I think is a good thing. They show a controller similar to one that was in the forklift. I may be able to use the diagrams to rig up the forklift controller to run the car.

Might not be what I want to do in the long run, because I will want higher voltage, but could be good to start with.

[MetroMPG]

Did you happen to make a diagram yourself of where the various wires & cables went to & from the control panel, battery & motors before you took it apart?

We still have the 24-48v GE SCR controller from the Baker forklift... keeping as a spare. After we stripped the forklift, I reassembled the wiring harness to the controller in the basement and made it work, with some trial and error.

[bennelson]

No, I didn't do a "label every wire" deal before taking things apart.

I really wasn't considering using the forklift's controller before.

This book talks a fair amount about this style of controller, so now I have some more information on how it all works.

The controller and contactors all came off as a big single unit. I mostly just needed to disconnect a couple big power cables. I have a clean photo of the controller before removing, so I think I could get most of the cables back to the right spots.

In the end, it may just be something I play around with as a learning experience.


I also got an invitation by the Milwaukee Hybrid Owners Group to come on out to their meeting this Saturday.
milwaukeehybridgroup.com
They are the largest Hybrid group in the country. Their goal is to teach people more about hybrids, encourage owners, and teach mileage-extending driving techniques.

Should be fun. I will take some photos and report back.

I would take my electric motorcycle there to show off, but it is still the heart of winter here. Also, I am going to Chicago later that day, and really don't want to be lugging around a motorcycle for that.

Their meetings are every other month, so maybe the weather in April will be good enough to have a go with the cycle.

[bennelson]

Hey everyone,

I put an ad on Craigslist stating that I was looking for some misc parts for this project. I just got a reply from an area guy. I will paste his reply below.

Is anyone familiar with the chargers or batteries he has, or what a fair price for them is?

Please read is reply and give me suggestions. (I haven't talked to this guy yet)


"Ben, I have some of what you need. Can’t donate it, but I’ll sell it real cheap because I think it’s cool that you are building that yourself. I always like to mess with stuff like that but I just work too much now, so I don’t have time anymore.

Here’s what I have: Battery chargers, big on-board ones like they use for shorepower on motorhomes. I have a couple of light and compact 80 amp 12 v units that would work great for what you are doing. They are real expensive new, like $500+. We could say $100 each.

I also have a large quantity of really nice deep cycle gel cell batteries. Made for heavy duty car audio applications. The brand and model is Stinger SPV70. They sell for about $260 each on ebay. They are mint condition low use units that I have been selling off for $60 to $75 each, but I’d go $40 to $50 each for you. I have like 20 of them. They were recharged regularly and always on matching power supplies made specifically for them.

I also have excess cable in 4 ga, car audio type stuff. At my store I got a real great deal on some 1/0 ga that uses an unusual braided configuration, it’s super flexible. 1/0 is selling for like $6 a foot now, but this stuff I have 25 foot rolls that you could buy for about $75 a roll.

Also have a bunch of 200 amp relays, those might be useful for something on your project. Other misc stuff like voltage gauges, small wiring, heavy duty fuse holders and power distribution blocks, too.

If ya buy some of the big stuff, the little stuff will be on me.

Fred"

[WaxyChicken]

The battery chargers look like a good deal, but other than saying for Mobile Home batteries he doesn't give any specs for them. The deal may not be as good as he says.
Here's the best comparison i found for offboard battery chargers: various chargers

the batteries he mentions appear to be dry cell automotive batteries. Link for Stinger SPV70 ($260 USD is the high end price range for them new)

I'm afraid i can't give any more info on the other material. But if you find he's charging too much for something like the charger or batteries, then the deal for any of it may not be so good. (also be sure the batts hold a charge.)

[EDIT:] by the way, you might beat me in the EV Building Race, it looks like my house may be heading toward some money problems. But that doesn't mean I'm giving up!

[TomEV]

Audio is the operative word here. Audio requirements are not anywhere near the current requirements of EV use.

I'd beware of that guy - 'used' batteries are probably OK for testing if someone gave them to you, but don't expect more than a year (if that) out of batteries that have been used by various people for unknown audio applications (were they used for a year, always to 100% depth of discharge providing sound for tailgate parties? There is a limit to the number of discharge cycles of any battery - Why were they removed if they weren't bad?) Why spend half of what new batteries would cost on questionable reliability?

Audio cable does not have heat-rated insulation. If you get it hot (400 or so amps on #4 cable will get it hot) it will probably smoke. Get real cable with a temperature rating stamped on it, not see-thru plastic. In any case, you probably want at least 1/0 cable, probably larger.

Get a single battery charger for the voltage you intend to use. Multiple chargers are a genuine headache - don't go there! Imagine every night after you use the car, finding a bunch of outlets, hooking up battery clamps to all the batteries, and hoping you don't blow a fuse because you don't have enough current available in your garage for all those 100 amp chargers. Then going out in four hours and hooking up the rest of the set, and doing it again four hours later until all the batteries are charged... every day... If you want to use the car, make it simple AND reliable. That will help make it enjoyable.

[bennelson]

I got really excited for about 3 seconds, until I read Automatic Transmission:

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/car/570876775.html

Too bad it's not Stick! Looks beautiful!

[WaxyChicken]

Such a shame. And it looks like it'd be very easy to Aeromod, too.

What does it mean when someone in your area says a car "Dog Tracks" ?
This stick shift 2 door Toyota Tercel is running for only $200
the only images i found are these for pics of toyota tercel 2 door hatchbacks.
Craigs List


They say it has problems, maybe most are related to the engine.

[TomEV]

Rust is not your friend. If you convert a rusty IC car, you will have a rusty EV. It will only get worse, and never look good.

I'd rather get the clean looking Saturn, buy a $75 manual transmission from pick-a-part, and install a clutch pedal - the pedal mount, master cylinder and shifter holes might already be in the car, just not used. You might even be able to sell the auto transmission, gas tank, radiator, catalytic converter, etc. on craigslist (or as scrap metal...) to offset the cost.

You would probably want to remove the transmission to clean things up and mount the electric motor even if you got one with a manual. Something to consider if you can't find a clean car with a manual tranny.