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Old 12-01-2019, 10:04 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. Stubby, that is the plan. I think I have an 80A relay kicking around from my old Metro alt delete.

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Old 12-30-2019, 04:42 AM   #82 (permalink)
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I was just browsing alternators and saw a Valeo unit that claims to have a clutch.
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Old 12-30-2019, 12:40 PM   #83 (permalink)
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I was just browsing alternators and saw a Valeo unit that claims to have a clutch.
One-way clutches are becoming more common on modern engines...it's easier on the belt and gives a small boost in efficiency.
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:36 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Both of those advantages seem nice, but when I searched for alternators with clutches I saw a bunch of people complaining theirs went out.
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Old 12-31-2019, 12:24 AM   #85 (permalink)
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The fan and bearings and brush eat up maybe what 100 watts at redline? Okay that's kind of significant but if it really bothers you, you can remove the stamped steel fan and wire in a 12V fan. Active rectifier + higher copper fill stator solve most of the alternator efficiency problem.
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Old 12-31-2019, 03:45 PM   #86 (permalink)
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When you get the hang of this you should swap to Arduino. Free programming interface, boards are like $10 now, and all of your high low temp guard, high low voltage guard, high low amp guard can all be programmed into the if-then statements of the program body. Its a lot of fun when you get in there. A lot of cheap and easy to implement sensors available.
Raspberry pi is fun too. You can set them up to output to a display as well for live info on your electric system.
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Old 12-31-2019, 07:56 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I like this idea!



I'd be surprised if nobody in the history of EcoModder has ever done this before (I once thought about doing it with a DC-DC converter powered by 24v).



But the difference today is the availability of cheap used cells and cheap electronics to make it work - almost plug 'n' play.



Planning to try it out?
any Idea if that lithium battery can supply 100-120amps of power?

with everything going were looking at 120-140amps or so in autostop with the A/C on fans going etc..

just the transmission Aux pump requires upto 40-50amps...(sure the peak current is a bit higher)

in that case i would look more into using Super/ULTRA capacitors
to butter up the lead acid battery...


do yo know what the current draw is with the alternator off? if it's more then 10 amps(some rated upto 20amps) you will pop the fuse for the 12 volt socket on the spot

Last edited by Tahoe_Hybrid; 12-31-2019 at 08:16 PM..
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Old 04-14-2020, 07:40 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I picked up this project today and got the pack assembled this time with the bus bars installed. Assembly was a pain in the butt. Getting all the cells to line up correctly just doesn't happen very well. But its together solidly now!

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Old 04-17-2020, 04:21 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Here is the initial plan for all the components. The pack resides in the bottom because it has the most weight and that'll stabilize things. The yellow blocks are the AC power supplies. The smaller red blocks are the dc/dc converters for the charging side of things. The bigger blue block is the output dc/dc converter. Finally the smaller darker blue block is the low voltage disconnect.

There is still obviously work to do on it (handles, power button, etc), but its getting closer. I'm still debating on adding a fan to this thing.



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Old 04-18-2020, 04:29 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Printed out the dc-dc converter mount. It is installed and is solid and fits perfectly.


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