07-14-2014, 09:32 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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So I just replaced the Vtech solenoid gasket and it was definately bad on the right side (when facing the engine). The far right side bold had oil on the threads and all the way up to the head of the bolt, which it shouldn't have any oil on it at all, and the lower bolt was completely covered in oil. The left side bolt however was bone dry. I'm hoping this fixes the main leak but I'm not going to hold my breath.
Guys, is there anyway to remove the P/S belt without cutting it? It's brand new (came with the timing belt kit I just bought) and I would really rather not cut it, selling it would probably be a more favorable option.
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07-14-2014, 10:10 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
So I just replaced the Vtech solenoid gasket and it was definately bad on the right side (when facing the engine). The far right side bold had oil on the threads and all the way up to the head of the bolt, which it shouldn't have any oil on it at all, and the lower bolt was completely covered in oil. The left side bolt however was bone dry. I'm hoping this fixes the main leak but I'm not going to hold my breath.
Guys, is there anyway to remove the P/S belt without cutting it? It's brand new (came with the timing belt kit I just bought) and I would really rather not cut it, selling it would probably be a more favorable option.
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Yeah. There's a wing nut on the top of the power steeting pump mounting bracket, and a bolt on the side. Loosen those and you'll let off tension on the PS belt. I can't remember, but it might be the middle belt of 3, so it's possible you may have to take an A/C belt off too.
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07-14-2014, 10:12 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
Yeah. There's a wing nut on the top of the power steeting pump mounting bracket, and a bolt on the side. Loosen those and you'll let off tension on the PS belt. I can't remember, but it might be the middle belt of 3, so it's possible you may have to take an A/C belt off too.
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Uhg, if that's the case forget it. I'm to tired to do it right now, I'll figure out how to loop the lines (well, figure out what lines it is I need to loop) and pull everything off at once. I already know for a fact that I want to take it off, as I have tested all the 'sharp' turns I have to take with the engine off, and coasting so, I know I can handle it. Do any of you know a comprehensive guide on how to loop the lines and take off the p/s pump and everything that goes with it?
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07-14-2014, 10:55 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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07-14-2014, 11:29 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
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This actually raises more questions then answers but thanks, I just need to get out there and start tearing it apart lolz.
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07-15-2014, 04:17 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Whenever you get around to removing your power steering... IIRC, the nut that holds the power steering pulley is reverse threaded...meaning
Lefty tighty , right loosey
It took me a good hour of twisting righty righty righty until I realized this
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07-15-2014, 04:23 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Uhg, if that's the case forget it. I'm to tired to do it right now, I'll figure out how to loop the lines (well, figure out what lines it is I need to loop) and pull everything off at once. I already know for a fact that I want to take it off, as I have tested all the 'sharp' turns I have to take with the engine off, and coasting so, I know I can handle it. Do any of you know a comprehensive guide on how to loop the lines and take off the p/s pump and everything that goes with it?
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Under the brake booster on the firewall
There should be 2 rubber hoses that stick out of the firewall (they should lead into the power steering reservoir). This is where you loop the hoses.
However, before you close the loop, then your wheel all the way to the left and right to releases most if the ps fluid. I say "most" because you still want a little fluid for lubrication.
If you don't do this step, there is no room for the fluid to move, thus steering effort will greatly increase.
Then you can start removing the power steering pump, pulley, and reservoir (optional).
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07-15-2014, 04:57 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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07-15-2014, 06:00 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Well via my own research, I'm not going to risk destroying the cv joint so looks like the mamba is out of service until I replace it.... Sigh... I just really hope I can do this myself, I don't fancy the 2-300$ repair.
[Edit]: After seeing how easy it is to just replace the axle, I'm just gonna replace the entire axle instead. That way I'll have a lifetime warranty on it incase it rips again in the future. And with that being said, I'm just gonna keep driving it. I'll replace it on Wednesday or Thursday morning. I don't think it's going to go out on me in 200 miles of driving. It's not making any noise and there is still grease in the boot, so it must have just ripped recently
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Last edited by Baltothewolf; 07-15-2014 at 06:20 AM..
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07-15-2014, 09:54 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Well via my own research, I'm not going to risk destroying the cv joint so looks like the mamba is out of service until I replace it.... Sigh... I just really hope I can do this myself, I don't fancy the 2-300$ repair.
[Edit]: After seeing how easy it is to just replace the axle, I'm just gonna replace the entire axle instead. That way I'll have a lifetime warranty on it incase it rips again in the future. And with that being said, I'm just gonna keep driving it. I'll replace it on Wednesday or Thursday morning. I don't think it's going to go out on me in 200 miles of driving. It's not making any noise and there is still grease in the boot, so it must have just ripped recently
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I think you'll be fine. My experience has been that axles can last months or years after the boot tears. Maybe wrap it in tape to slow dirt from getting in and grease from getting out.
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