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Old Yesterday, 03:06 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko View Post
I can see ring/land gaps being reduced enough that blowby becomes very reduced, perhaps as little blowby as a new bore. However blowby is not an indication of overall motor condition, it is an indication of seal efficiency.
I can see piston diameter being increased enough to not slap the skirt against the sidewall of the bore. I don't see the piston top increasing diameter mostly because you cant get the additive up in that spot. I don't see boron plating the cylinder walls, or if it did, not abrading from ring scraping immediately thereafter. Been my experiences you want to bake a newly plated surface to increase hardness.

Therefore, plating effect equaling a new engine is conjecture until tear down and measurement verification
Yes; it's interesting that the downward strokes of a piston are far more lubricated, but in the wrong direction to get lube up to the top of the cylinder wall well and/or quickly.

There is a lot of research on dissolving BA in alcohols (Acetone and/or Methanol etc(water soluble)) forming esters. That goes back to BA during combustion IIRC. (Do check)
This is added to various fuels in a lot of research.
IIRC a 6% increase in economy is claimed in 1 paper.
Ah:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...43164817302545

Some people who've done it etc:
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...id-petrol.html

That may be a good way to get to the top of the piston and top ring, but I haven't tested that.
Closest I got was a half teaspoon of very fine powder added to my car's fuel tank.
I figured it could just lie at the bottom and react with any moisture that might get into the tank and a tiny bit might get into the fuel that way. (water is very-very slightly soluble in Petrol)

I noticed no difference in that (my) car.
(A Mazda 626 IIRC 2L something or other, with the sought after unturbo'd Tredia turbo mill in it. This one IIRC)

It was going like a bat out of hell on the initially done oil treatment already. That didn't change.
The ceramic layer that is the initial layer of the layer so to speak must have formed IMHO, but I cant sign my name to that.
NB that any Boric Oxide scraped off for eg a sleeve turns back into BA...

I was made an offer I couldn't refuse some years later by a turbo nut in Durban and sold it sadly.


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Old Yesterday, 07:52 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Like I indicated, if you reduce the blowby to new car specs, you are pretty much to new car compression. Easily measured with a compression checker but only for TDC., nobody ever does compression check at bottom because you cant. Question becomes does the treatment reduce bearing diameter also? And by how much? That is a disassembly required question.
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Old Today, 05:10 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko View Post
Like I indicated, if you reduce the blowby to new car specs, you are pretty much to new car compression. Easily measured with a compression checker but only for TDC., nobody ever does compression check at bottom because you cant. Question becomes does the treatment reduce bearing diameter also? And by how much? That is a disassembly required question.
Oh ye; nothing was ever disassembled and measured with a micrometer and I never did any compression before after tests either that I recall.

So all the:
  • 0.5 micron layer on metal surfaces
  • = 2 microns of play removed form sleeve bearings and pistons/cylinders
  • = 4 microns from a ball or roller bearing
is based on the research papers.

Probably the 1st car I tried this on is the best 'proof' I have that the '2 microns' does happen is the Toyota :

When I got back home (from setting up mines in Africa IIRC) there it was, billowing smoke and very 'sick'.
Upon asking I was told that it was towed back into town; the sleeves honed and the old pistons just put back.

That definitely stopped smoking and smoothed out dramatically.
My (recently asked) Mom says she recalls being very happy with the reduced fuel and oil consumption after.
That car continued on very happily for a good 5 years in that state, with regular-ish services, before getting stolen.

But I get it:
That's just hearsay to people reading the 'scriblings' of some arb on a forum.
Same as the various forum (elsewhere) posts from people I've never met, I linked earlier.
The only reason I believe them is that I have seen BA work for myself!

I'd go with the Peer Reviewed, Published research:
ie:
If Argonne National labs for eg. does research and writes a paper:
Before they can publish;
their piers at
eg: Harvard Tribology, Stanford Tribology, etc-etc need to review and 'white-ball' the paper before it's allowed to be published.

https://researcher.life/blog/article...nd%20relevance


All the papers Previously linked here: (I hope I didn't miss any)
Other forums where people tried this (not in water) and posted their results:( It seems Indian people are more open minded than most. They don't just 'drink the Kool-Aid'. )

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Old Today, 05:28 AM   #134 (permalink)
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There're Indian [Navy] people interested in Malcolm Bendall's Plasmoid induction system.
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Old Today, 05:37 AM   #135 (permalink)
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There're Indian [Navy] people interested in Malcolm Bendall's Plasmoid induction system.

Yep. And people from every nation trying to coax water to split economically with 'resonant frequencies' etc-etc.

It's just interesting that all those forums are Indian.
I'll look for others.
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Old Today, 06:20 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Here's 1:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...92/post-959214
He got shot down fast and, being wiser than me, decided to let it go.

A thread on Motorsilk with some reports:
Hello everyone. I have used Motor Silk in two different vehicles, including a 95 Mercury Villager, with 110,000 miles on it.
This was one of the 95's with the oil hole missing in the connecting rods which lubricates the lower cylinder walls, resulting in piston slap, noticeable, but not terrible. The slap diminished after the vehicle reached operating temperature.
Added Motor Silk, and within 300 miles the slap was gone period, and the fuel mileage increased 2mpg.
91 Jeep Cherokee, 178,000 miles with a noticeable rod knock. Added Motor Silk, which REDUCED the knock. The knock is still audible, however NOT nearly to the extent it was prior to the addition of Motor Silk, and again the mpg increased by 1mpg.
Plain and simple the stuff works.
In fact, i just purchased a used vehicle from Folsom Lake Toyota, and purchased the extended warranty from the dealer. I am shopping around for a better price on the warranty, same coverage and have found one company willing to extend the power train warranty from 36/36 to 10/100,000 IF I have the Motor Silk installed in the engine and transmission, by a ASE mechanic and shop at NO additional charge.


I just came across your posting about Motor Silk. I have known about Motor Silk since about 2000 and have used it in my vehicles. I used it in my sons 1966 Mustang after we had the engine rebuilt. My son proceeded to attend Fullerton College automotive school. When it was necessary to discuss carberated cars, my son was asked to bring his Mustang in to the garage, leave it run and put it up on the hoist. Every time he did the instructor would ask him "Wow, this engine sure sounds good. What have you done to this car?" Well, he didn't know that I put Motor Silk into his engine so he said he didn't know. I had it in a Ford Windstar and had some engine work done and when I went in and spoke with the mechanics they both asked me "You sure must take good care of your car because the inside of that engine looks like new." It's no joke, this stuff really works. Read the info on their website and you choose for yourself. If you want to protect your investment and make sure your keep the wear down, use Motor Silk. I think it's great.
https://www.tundrasolutions.com/thre...or-silk.15601/


I noticed that the engine ran smoother and quieter (especially noticeable when idling) and the throttle response was sharper afterwards ...

This stuff works I have used it in my focus tdci and my civic

well i've done about 100 miles with this stuff in - I didn't expect miracles and I'm always suspicious about these things, plus although 5 years old my car has only done 11000k miles ! But I have noticed one big improvement...

When coasting in traffic at low speed say 10-20 mph the car didn't seem to have a suitable gear - it would be very jerky. I put this done to the fact that my previous Turbo charged Leon FR had oodles of torque and would happily do 25-30 mph in 6th gear !

However, I really have noticed a huge improvement already ! The car is far smoother and doesnt jerk anymore which is a result.

I also think the engine is even quieter and the throttle response is marginally better - looking forward to seeing
https://www.civinfo.com/threads/bg-44k.66176/page-3
So ye; there are some 'Question the cool Kool-Aid' types in other countries.
That's a relief!
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Old Today, 11:10 AM   #137 (permalink)
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There you go. That's exactly the cause of my skepticism, no first person verifiable proof done with measuring instruments and pictures: "8x10 color glossies with circles and arrows and 24 paragraphs on the back"* on your engine. It's theory, some of which I understand and kind of accept. Some not so much. Cut and paste proof of obscure and rare research papers filling up my screen for pages. TLDR. Ever think about Mother Earth News?

Sounds quieter. How much in decibels? Didn't test for that. You could be going high frequency deaf after a trip for all I know. Happens to me frequently any more after being packed in a flying disease tube for a couple of hours.

Runs smoother. Yup my diesels run like fecal matter until the fuel gets warm enough to flow below -25C after sitting outside all night.

You're not helping your cause
Seems like drilling holes in a leaky hull to let the water back out.

* thank you Arlo.

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