Brake drag reduction clips

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

Come to think of it, If that smoke wasn't noted perhaps the car would've caught on fire or the tire would've popped? At this moment I don't know.

A cousin in law's pickup did catch fire from brake heat (don't ask me how because I don't know) this last Spring. Parked it, went inside his house, and then noticed it burning and ran out with an extinguisher! Ugh.

[nemo]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

The 1997 Plymouth Voyager my Father owned had a similar problem once but it was much hotter and was smoking when I noticed it; It melted a hubcap out of shape! I think if brake drag reduction clips would help against that sort of thing they could be worth looking into.

Come to think of it, If that smoke wasn't noted perhaps the car would've caught on fire or the tire would've popped? At this moment I don't know.

Don"t think the ones installed on the Pontiac would help much if the piston were to stick. They are not very strong,The main purpose seems be to hold the pad aginst the piston so they retract with the piston.

[BHarvey]

Put the clips on about a month ago and haven't seen a difference yet. Haven't had to fill the car in over 2 months! Did have a couple 48mpg+, 50 mile trips, but cannot tell a difference in coasting even though the before/after hand spinning of the rear wheels marked 2x more with the clips.

I think the fronts would benefit more since the pads are twice as large, but they don't make them for the front so I will have to.....

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by nemo

Don"t think the ones installed on the Pontiac would help much if the piston were to stick. They are not very strong,The main purpose seems be to hold the pad aginst the piston so they retract with the piston.

*Shrug*

It depends on the car and design, I guess.

[user removed]

The front brake on my 89 Suzuki was dragging. I took the caliper off and the pads out, pumped the pistons out about 50%, then cleaned the exposed surface of the pistons. I compressed both pistons many times before they freed up enough where I could compress them with my hand.
After working on them for a while they finally started working right. When you pumped the master (no pads just the caliper) you could see the pistons extend. When you let off the brake lever they retracted very slightly I reassembled the caliper, pads, and brackets as well as cleaned and lubed the pins in the sliding portion of the caliper.
Now when I apply the brakes and release them the front wheel will spin several revolutions when i get it going with my hand, just like the 94 (same type bike).
The bike is 25 years old and I would wager the brake system has never been "serviced" properly. In disc brake systems the pistons move very little and they tend to get gunk accumulated of the exposed portion of the piston even with good dust seals. When the pads are replaced and the pistons compressed, that gunk can prevent the piston from moving properly, especially when the brake is released. At a point you get some brake application continuously, like what was happening with my bike. I could feel the drag and the front brake was very touchy.
While it may help to install springs to retract the pads from the rotors, it has been my experience that a good cleaning of the pistons and moving them in and out many times could get them to release more , as mine did, and prevent them from dragging and costing you mileage.
I had changed the brake fluid before, but after this I may do it again, to flush out any grunge that might have broken free.

regards
Mech

[Frank Lee]

Whenever I get a caliper off I completely disassemble it- piston all the way out, seals out, etc. Then clean and service thoroughly so I don't have to wonder if corrosion is going to cause any binding.

[user removed]

My point was that you may want to check your calipers to see if they are operating properly. Most calipers made in the last 25 years will slightly "retract" the piston when pressure is released. If your calipers are sticking or your brakes are dragging and it is noticeable to any extent, then you want to check the calipers over thoroughly before you put a "bandaid" over another problem.

I used to check mine with a digital thermometer, and while Frank's method is better for those who feel competent to tackle a caliper overhaul, very few of my customers appreciated repairs that were not necessary and I'm sure that feeling applies to almost everyone here without exception. Not an issue for those who fix their own.

My method has worked fine for me on this bike, which has just over 10k miles in 25 years. Most brake systems should be thoroughly inspected and serviced when they hit the 10 year mark and 100k miles, unless that particular vehicle is known for premature failures of brake components. like the old Ford Aerostars, which were known for eating brake pads.

What concerns me is if you install drag reduction clips and they are too strong and your calipers are working as they did when new, you could create a situation where the pads are retracted too much and your brake performance is degraded.

regards
Mech

[rmay635703]

2013 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip

I wonder if these could be fitted to an older 02 TDI jetta (having no idea what various designs VW uses on brakes)

[j12piprius]

Originally Posted by arcosine

I stopped at NAPA, but they didn't have them. So I just bent up a a set from two old bicycle spokes. My first impression is there is no brake drag! The car use to come to a full stop and there was always some drag after appling the brakes. Now there is not and it rolls on the slightest grade, even after braking! The brake petal doesn't go down any further than before.

Cost $0.00

The clamp keeps the pads together before assembling the caliper.

Do you have a photo of these before you put them in the pads?

Is that a U shape that goes in the hole, and how do you make sure they don't pop back out?

[AlexanderB]

Interesting, I might do something like this to see if it improves the MPG on mine..