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Old 10-14-2014, 05:44 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I do have the occasional hot brake nowadays despite the extra springs. Time to get it all cleaned and running free again. In for winter tires and brake service next 22nd.

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Old 10-14-2014, 06:13 PM   #82 (permalink)
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A hot brake indicates the beginning of a stuck caliper. Brake fluid absorbs water. This will form a rusty deposit in the bottom of the caliper cylinder as the piston moves out as the pads wear. When you put new brake pads in and push the piston back into the cylinder, it will ride over this deposit and stick. It may not be noticeable at first, but they will begin to drag as the piston binds in the cylinder. An older caliper can seize as the deposits work under the piston and fuse it to the cylinder. It is very important to remove the piston from the cylinder when replacing brake pads to ensure the cylinder is clean. Brake fluid should be flushed yearly as should power steering fluid. If your fluid looks dirty, it is. It should be clear or amber colored.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:45 PM   #83 (permalink)
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I doubled up on the brake clips on the Black Widow back in the day, and bent the clips farther out so they'd have even more tension, and that car would roll forever. When I had it up in the air adding the extra clips, I spun the front wheels, and they spun for a looooong while!

Never got around to adding any for the drums in the rear, but the front clips definitely gave me extra roll for P&G/EOC
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:47 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacCarlson View Post
Brake fluid should be flushed yearly as should power steering fluid. If your fluid looks dirty, it is. It should be clear or amber colored.
Never gonna happen. My brake and power steering fluid gets changed once a decade, whether it needs it or not.

Nobody else is going to change their brake fluid once per year either. It's either too costly, or too time consuming.

Brake calipers are cheap, and it's less costly if they have to be replaced once in the course of vehicle ownership than to do a yearly fluid change.

My car is approaching 9 years and 100,000 miles, and I'll be replacing the coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, and gear oil. After that, I probably won't touch it again until 200,000 miles.
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Old 10-14-2014, 10:16 PM   #85 (permalink)
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No other pictures, but they are still doing their job..after a year and a half.

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Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
Do you have a photo of these before you put them in the pads?

Is that a U shape that goes in the hole, and how do you make sure they don't pop back out?
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:26 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Annual brake fluid change? Overkill, I think. Lucky if I do it every 10 years.
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:52 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Are we sure the OEM clips pictured are not just anti-rattle clips? My first car had them too, they lightly push the pads into the piston/caliper side to made sure they don't flop about and make a rattling noise.

They're nowhere near strong enough to push in the piston, thats for sure.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:56 PM   #88 (permalink)
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anti rattle clips

I looked at the front brakes today.

Initially the wheel spun only 1/2 a turn, and stopped very quickly. The pads were locked in by the anti seize compound and not able to move freely. I removed the compound and installed the drag reduction clips in the proper manner, but they were flimsy, causing immediate drag and not working as expected. I took them off, removed the anti rattle clips, and the pads were completely free.

The wheel now spins 2 full turns, and the car appears to coast better than it did.
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:41 AM   #89 (permalink)
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On dirt track we used a 1psi check valve to keep the caliper from draining into rhe master cylinder witch was mounted lower than the caliper. If this positive pressure was not maintained all mighty Gravity would push the fluid down and out thw master cylinder sucking the pistons open as well.during the week between races. 1psi for disk and 5psi for drum. Diesel Dave. Did you find some for your Dodge.

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