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Old 07-05-2014, 02:11 AM   #621 (permalink)
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Neil, I had not noticed how great the taper was until I saw the opening for the door through the windshield.

Exactly how much is the taper?

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Old 07-05-2014, 07:15 AM   #622 (permalink)
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The rear wheels are ~7" closer together than the front wheels. The greatest width is about 5' and the rear bumper is about 3'-6" wide. Next time I boot up Windows and run DataCAD, I'll measure the model and get the more precise numbers.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:15 PM   #623 (permalink)
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I was able to do a bit more work this evening, after work, and I got the vent bezel cut into its approximate position:



The ends stick up a bit more than I anticipated, so I will need to build up the area at the base of the 'A' pillar. The other photos I took with my phone were out of focus, so I post a better one when I can use my DSLR.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:49 AM   #624 (permalink)
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Something you may want to do is put some black paint over the clear spot where the VIN is visible on the Smart, and plan to provide something visible above the black area to put the State issued VIN on.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:26 PM   #625 (permalink)
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Small update:


(click for link to Library)

I've done a bit of smoothing, and I've got a bit of puzzle about process. I need to fiberglass the 'A' pillars to stiffen them (there is a fair bit of flex side-to-side in particular). I need to cut more on the firewall to fit the wiper motor, but this will cause more flex at the bottom. I will be able to rebuild the firewall with foam, but that requires I get inside the car. To get inside the car, I need to fiberglass the bottom. To fiberglass the bottom, I have to glue the nose on. And, the roof must be stronger, so I gotta fiberglass the top. To fiberglass the top, I have to smooth it more (the scarred edges of the repair in particular). When I glue the nose on, the car will be longer, and the garage will have to have stuff moved out - in order to close the doors.

I think I will have to fiberglass just the center of the 'A' pillars, and leave fabric to wrap around it - after I cut the windshield recess. That has to be wide enough to accept all the layers of fiberglass needed to make it rigid (enough). I think I have to err on the side of making it a bit wider than I think it will be (for 3 layers, or 4 layers, etc.) and if I have more space, an additional layer can be added to get it right. I will have to wait to cut the first side window until the underside is done, and maybe the sides.

And of course, the garage addition needs to get going *any time*. That comes to finances ... there is never enough money! We have a particularly urgent repair to our main bathroom in the house. Naturally. So, I am doing work as I can.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:07 AM   #626 (permalink)
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CarBen EV5

Over the years I've seen or read about several ways to stiffen the A pillar. The original Lotus Elite used tubing around the windshield with a tube running down in front of the door where it mounts the hinges and finally in the rocker panel area where it provides a jacking point for raising the side of the car. Chapman was great for making one piece serve two or more purposes. I've heard of carbon fiber "rope" being used if you happen to have some laying around. Finally plain old re-bar like you use in concrete work.

If you were using epoxy/fiberglass just enclosing the foam stiffen it substantially in weak appearing areas.


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Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard View Post
Small update:


(click for link to Library)

I've done a bit of smoothing, and I've got a bit of puzzle about process. I need to fiberglass the 'A' pillars to stiffen them (there is a fair bit of flex side-to-side in particular). I need to cut more on the firewall to fit the wiper motor, but this will cause more flex at the bottom. I will be able to rebuild the firewall with foam, but that requires I get inside the car. To get inside the car, I need to fiberglass the bottom. To fiberglass the bottom, I have to glue the nose on. And, the roof must be stronger, so I gotta fiberglass the top. To fiberglass the top, I have to smooth it more (the scarred edges of the repair in particular). When I glue the nose on, the car will be longer, and the garage will have to have stuff moved out - in order to close the doors.

I think I will have to fiberglass just the center of the 'A' pillars, and leave fabric to wrap around it - after I cut the windshield recess. That has to be wide enough to accept all the layers of fiberglass needed to make it rigid (enough). I think I have to err on the side of making it a bit wider than I think it will be (for 3 layers, or 4 layers, etc.) and if I have more space, an additional layer can be added to get it right. I will have to wait to cut the first side window until the underside is done, and maybe the sides.

And of course, the garage addition needs to get going *any time*. That comes to finances ... there is never enough money! We have a particularly urgent repair to our main bathroom in the house. Naturally. So, I am doing work as I can.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:37 PM   #627 (permalink)
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Thanks Stan - since I do no have any side doors, the 'A' pillar is spanning a much shorter distance. And it will be under *much* less stress as a result.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:40 PM   #628 (permalink)
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Quote:
I've heard of carbon fiber "rope" being used if you happen to have some laying around. Finally plain old re-bar like you use in concrete work.
Basalt rebar, the alternative to steel and fiberglass for reinforcing concrete
Quote:
Basalt Rebar is an alternative to steel and fiberglass for reinforcing concrete
Made from volcanic rock basalt rebar is tough, stronger than steel and has a higher tensile strength.
Much lighter than steel, 89% percent in fact!
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:48 PM   #629 (permalink)
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That basalt rebar seems interesting due to the chemical stability.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:52 PM   #630 (permalink)
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i just ordered the Composites and Construction Samples. when it arrives, i will post pics and send some samples if wanted.

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