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Old 04-26-2022, 12:03 AM   #51 (permalink)
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I enclosed the greenadirondack

I invented a greenbunker!



Mom would never be happy with that!

I am not saying that she will ever be happy, but I did the back, too:


Yeah... um... yeah. She's not going to be happy with this!


Trimming the roof was easy, I just climbed up, placed my knife in a corrugation just outside of the siding, and it cut straight on its own--until the top of the second one.

I didn't trim the corner piece, so it stuck, and I trimmed around that, before trimming the corner mistake.

Is anyone keeping track of my mistakes? Sixteen-inch studs on-center, measuring before I installed the siding, and trimming the corner before trimming the roof.

I ended up having a gap where I cut around the corner, so I used the largest remaining piece, and, yeah...

Yeah.

My math had never felt right and I made the absurd mistake of not halving the remainder after cutting the angle.

I used a 10' 2x6 and drew a line according to my math, but it was clearly wrong, and I realized my mistake.

Since I have done an atrocious job of cutting angles I wanted to use my jigsaw, but I couldn't find it, so I lined up the 2x4 under the sheet, and the 2x6 on top, half an inch over. It worked great except when I was past the end of the 2x4.

Tomorrow I will screw 1x2s around the door and door frame and figure out a door handle.

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Last edited by Xist; 04-26-2022 at 01:10 AM..
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Old 04-26-2022, 12:37 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I just thought I wanted to see pictures.

Now I think the doubled top plate isn't on top of the studs, but hung from the rafters.
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Old 04-26-2022, 01:17 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I didn't know how to angle the roof around the doubled top plate, but don't you cut notches in the rafters?

Yeah, I.. might have been able to manage that... decently.

The top seemed sturdy enough, but I installed small brackets attaching the double top plate to each stud and rafter, front and back.

I made a short post with the images using my phone and then started writing on a laptop, so I may have updated #51 since you read it.
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Old 04-26-2022, 01:11 PM   #54 (permalink)
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#52 --Yesterday, 08:37 PM
#51 edited at 09:10 PM..
(Ecomodder is responsible for the double period )

The stud wall is a post and beam construction, it's been popular since Stonehenge.

The top plate is doubled so it can extend further than the length of a single stick.

The notch in each rafter is called a bird-mouth.
Quote:
https://www.doityourself.com › stry › how-to-add-a-bird-mouth-to-a-roof-rafter
Step 2 - Layout of the Bird's Mouth From the marked point draw a line at the same angle as the pitch of the rafter up and make a mark at 1 1/2 inches. From that line across the rafter draw a perpendicular line at the 1 1/2 inch mark out towards inside part of the rafter. This 90-degree angle forms the bird's mouth.
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Old 04-27-2022, 02:41 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Make a hole!

I saw three clients, weeded and mowed the front lawn, and started making an actual door.

Oh bother.

I made the crease\hinge around the frame, including the twisted rafter, but then I cut the door below the rafters.

The crease\hinge leans about an inch to the right for no reason.

I screwed a 2×4 on the door side of where I wanted the crease\hinge, but when I tried to crease it I tore the plastic on top and popped a hole around a screw.

I removed the screws holding the coroplast to the frame and screwed 2×4s on the frame side of the crease\hinge. Then I screwed a 2×4 to the boards on the back, on the door side of the crease\hinge, and a sideways 2×4 to the middle of that board.
I was able to fold all of the plastic at once, but it made far more of a crease than a hinge.

I cut a board to fit on the outside of the door and clamped it to the frame with spacers, but I couldn't maintain the spacing, and I needed to clamp the 2×4 to the coroplast in order to attach it.

I wanted to cut and secure 2×4s to the top and bottom and screw them to the vertical boards, but it was 2100, and I did not want to continue using power tools.
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Old 04-28-2022, 03:05 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I framed the door. It was a pain.

It was all floppy and I cannot clamp the bottom because I did not cut it. I I drove a stake inside the door and used that to hold the bottom 2x4, clamped the top, screwed the 2x4s to the coroplast, and then drove almost 6" screws from the sides, although none of it was straight.

Um...

Hey guys?

Now what do I do?!

I need to install a door handle and then what?!
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Old 04-28-2022, 03:08 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Um...

Hey guys?

Now what do I do?!
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Old 05-03-2022, 03:36 AM   #58 (permalink)
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I haven't accomplished anything in days.

I keep telling people that I will do stuff, but apparently that is time-consuming. I bought a doorknob on Saturday.

I had been trying to find a normal door knob without an oversized rose.

Home Depot's website made it look like that is the standard now, but I eventually found one in-person.

When I visited my then-girlfriend in Idaho I asked why one faceplate was larger than the rest.

"I never noticed that."
"You have lived here eight years!"

I found a door lock installation kit and it looked just like what I have somewhere in the garage.

I forgot to find it first.

On Saturday I saw that a small piece of coroplast was hanging from one screw. It was the end of the sheet that extended past the door, but didn't reach the next stud, so I overlapped as much as I could.

Apparently the wind blew it off, ripping the plastic under 2 screws.

Today I said that I was going to buy clear duct tape.

Uh, I did a Google search 5 hours ago.

Lowe's has 20 yards of 3m for $10, rated 4.7 stars.
Lowe's has 9 yards of Gorilla for $8, rated 4.6 stars.
Walmart has 20 yards of Duck for $4, rated 4.9 stars, but it sounds like packaging tape.
It turns out that they also have clear Flex Tape for $13, but it is only 5' long, although is 4" wide for some reason, but it is only rated 4.3 stars.


Insider says that Gorilla is the best clear, but they don't say how they tested, or which brands.

For all that we know, they are skimming reviews.

Bob Vila's intern says that Gaffer Power is the best.


Not a valid option, Bob Vila's intern!

Bob Vila's intern wrote "How We Chose the Best Duct Tapes," but has two paragraphs that don't mean anything.

Not a valid explanation, Bob Vila's intern!

Popular Mechanics also chose Gorilla and just said "We have lots of experience with all of these brands, but we have no way of knowing what brands they haven't tried that didn't make the list.

I hadn't worried about sealing the gaps because it is warm, so I am not planting any of this stuff. When it gets warm I will be moving everything to the patio.

I had planned on reinforcing the side with holes and taping the seams to protect the sheet, but wouldn't leaving the piece somewhere safe protect it until I actually need it?

Well, that was a great use of my time!

By the way, I also read that there is military and industrial duct tape.

In the Army we used 100MPH tape, but I honestly thought it was olive green duct tape. Allegedly this is genuine 100MPH tape, $24 for 60 yards, but only rated 4.1 stars..

Two people claimed it didn't stick.

There is also nuclear tape, but I haven't bothered looking at that, I have vastly too much to do tonight!
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Old 05-04-2022, 08:45 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xist View Post
When I visited my then-girlfriend in Idaho I asked why one faceplate was larger than the rest.

"I never noticed that."
"You have lived here eight years!"
Last time I had to replace a door lock, I just replaced the faceplates because one got damaged while I removed the old door lock. Wouldn't be surprised if some folks would rather just replace the damaged one.
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Old 05-09-2022, 12:04 AM   #60 (permalink)
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I needed to install the door knob.

However, relying on coroplast to support the door was idiotic.

I rolled UV treatment on most of the greenhouse, but I wonder if that is ever going to dry.

There is residue all over it.

The wind kept making the treatment spill, so I put cinder blocks on top of the bricks I put down, and hoped it would dry overnight.

I woke up early to make breakfast, but Mom left for Church before anything was ready.

Mom really likes to party late. I was the first one to go to bed at 03 and then I woke up at 0730. I looked up a french toast recipe and I think that took far too long.
I was exhausted.
I laid down for a nap as soon as we came home and got up around 3.

I heard Mom banging around in the kitchen, so I got up to help, but she said she ripped the door off "that stupid structure you built on my lovely garden box."
"The greenhouse?"
"Whatever."

I removed the roofing screws, cut a 1×2, and screwed it into the door frame and rafter, and then another one on the inside of the 2x4 on the inside of the door.

The huge screws in the bottom right of the door frame didn't hold up to the torque of the 2x4. One bust through the wood and the other bent, so I pulled them and screwed one 2x4 across the bottom.

This time I used a c clamp with a piece of wood protecting the coroplast. It straightened the corner nicely.

It was twisted before when I used quick clamps.

It is still twisted on the other side, so at some point I need to pull those screws, tap in and glue some dowels, buy and use a corner clamp to square that corner, drill new holes, and put the screws in right this time.
It looks all right for now, but when it gets cooler and I start putting clear duct tape all over, I need to seal up the long rip from Mom pulling the door off the greenhouse.

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