CRXFi Build Thread (Geo Metro XFi drivetrain in Honda CRX)

[Wonderboy]

I'm just going to end up using the coil, as the crx wiring diagrams show it. I'm more concerned with how to approach an engine whose idle speed increases after startup instead of decreases.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Enough throttle cable slack? Vacuum leak? Plug all open tubes on the intake manifold. Don't play with the throttle stop screw unless you're sure it's been moved. If it looks like the throttle butterfly is closing all the way, leave that screw where it is. There's an idle speed adjusting screw on the throttle body, but it's really for fine adjustments. It normally hidden by a little black rubber plug. It's on the driver's side.

My 1990 Civic Wagon service manual shows a blue wire for the tach. Whether it's green or blue, it should be hooked up to the brown wire coming from the noise suppressor. That should hopefully get the tach working.

[Wonderboy]

Enough throttle cable slack?

LOL, probably not. The throttle cable was just long enough to have a wee bit of slack, but with all the vibration I'll probably need to adjust it more or just go with the honda cable instead. I'll look into that fine tune thing too - never noticed that thing. Franks!

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Wonderboy

LOL, probably not. The throttle cable was just long enough to have a wee bit of slack, but with all the vibration I'll probably need to adjust it more or just go with the honda cable instead. I'll look into that fine tune thing too - never noticed that thing. Franks!

Did the Metro engine have an IACV on it?

That might also be sticking/slow.

[MetroMPG]

Woohoo! It lives!

[Wonderboy]

I'm pretty sure it was just the throttle cable because I'm watching it idle slow 'n' smooth right as I type this. I'm waiting 30 mins... there are contesting ideas of how to break in a rebuilt engine... any insight from our keen and educated users here on the steps? I'm also hearing clicking and clacking - not unhealthy, but it doesnt seem normal either. The "clicking" is definitely coming from the cam, and the deeper "clacking" is kind of coming from the whole thing, perhaps bottom end <bites fingernails> Anyone know what this is without a video or audio?

edit: burping the coolant too - it started "burping" pretty violently so I decided to put the cap on. Should I just wait till next time its cold and burp it again?

[Wonderboy]

The clicking and clacking went away. It idled for a good 45 minutes. After putting the rad cap back on, the coolant overflow container started getting pressurized and began shooting steam. I touched the valve cover and it was nearly hot enough to burn me. Perhaps I should hold off till it cools down again and I should burp it again?

[blownb310]

Originally Posted by Wonderboy

I'm pretty sure it was just the throttle cable because I'm watching it idle slow 'n' smooth right as I type this. I'm waiting 30 mins... there are contesting ideas of how to break in a rebuilt engine... any insight from our keen and educated users here on the steps?

The general consensus of breaking in a rebuilt engine is to drive it at varying speeds while intermittently putting a gentle load on it. This helps to seat the rings. The clicking could be air trapped in the hydraulic lash adjusters. If everything was done right on assembly, it should quiet up after driving it and getting it warmed up.

Originally Posted by Wonderboy

edit: burping the coolant too - it started "burping" pretty violently so I decided to put the cap on. Should I just wait till next time its cold and burp it again?

Will, if there is no bleeding screw provided on the engine [My Nissans have them for this purpose] you can simply jack the front of the car up to situate the radiator neck to be the highest part of the cooling system. This will allow trapped air to escape. Or just park the car on a hill with the nose up works too. Then put a paper clip under the inner plunger of the cap seal to allow air to escape while running the engine at a high idle [about 1,500 to 2,000 rpm].



This allows you to let the air out while keeping the coolant from "burping" all over the car.

Mike

[Christ]

Basically, you can burp the coolant when ever you really want to, just keep an eye on the temps until you do it. If the engine starts to get hot rapidly, shut 'er down, cuz you may have an air bubble in the water pump. Most newer coolant systems are designed so this isn't such a concern, in that it doesn't happen quite so often. I've built my own handful of engines, and never had a problem with cavitation in the pump causing issues.

Often, there's a high spot spigot in the cooling system that you can open to "burp" air from the system. Do that, then close it when coolant starts coming out and finish filling the radiator afterward, and you're good to go.

Clacking noise, if light, will go away as the bearings wear in and seat. The clicking noise in the top end is likely mis-adjusted rockers, which need to be adjusted to clearances while warm for most engines. I'm sure someone can correct me on that, though, and I don't know the specs off hand for that engine.

I can't really say much more about the noises without hearing them directly, though.

Edit: Turns out you've already solved the problem.

Good that the noises went away, though the upper end noise may come back after the engine cools.

[Wonderboy]

Thanks for the advice, gentlemen. Much appreciated, and fast! When will it be time to re-torque the head bolts? When will it be time for a compression test? I should really get the temperature gauge working...