CRXFi Build Thread (Geo Metro XFi drivetrain in Honda CRX)

[Christ]

It's the brake booster vacuum line, and the gray plastic thing in it is the check valve. If you have a 12V vacuum pump, you can suffice with using it instead of running that to the motor. However, you would normally just either plumb that into the manifold somewhere (remove the manifold and drill a hole if you have to, then install a nipple) or plug the end of the hose and get used to driving without power brakes. (It's really not that difficult.. even easier if you just remove the booster altogether.)

I'm not recommending it specifically, but it's an option if ever you feel like it.

Basically, if the XFi wasn't equipped with a power booster, you'll have to drill a hole for the line in the manifold, though. If it was, you'll just have to plumb that hose to the manifold's vacuum nipple.

[Wonderboy]

I just ran my fuel IN to the suction, the fuel OUT to the IN, leaving me with an empty fuel OUT and a loose brake booster hose. Onward!

[Christ]

Right, then. TALLY HO!

[Christ]

For some reason, the song "Turn me Loose" by Loverboy just popped into my head while reading a few posts back on this thread...

[Wonderboy]

I really wanted this running by the time I pooped out tonight, but it's just not going to happen. I feel so clueless when it comes to wiring. I can wire switches, outlets, and lights in my house, but I am still staring at the wiring diagrams (which aren't much help on the computer). I haven't cut anything yet, but perhaps I'll print out the wiring diagram to make it easier to look over and have momentum when I wake up. New windshield goes in tomorrow morning.

[Wonderboy]

Up and at 'em! So anyone have a good reason as to why I should use the metro fuel pump relay instead of the CRX? What about the other relays? If anyone could help me on where the heck all the leads go, that would be much appreciated.... do the leads correspond directly to the wires coming off the crx relays?

[Gasoline Fumes]

The vacuum nipple for the booster is on the back of the intake manifold, pointing at the firewall.

Just concentrate on one wire at a time. One side of the resistor receives power from the FI relay through a wht/blu wire. The other side of the resistor goes to the injector through a yellow wire. And the injector is already connected to the ECU through the engine harness.

For the ignition, I'd use the CRX's distributor wires for the coil. I'm basing the Honda wiring on a 1990 Civic Wagon service manual, so I can't guarantee compatibility with your CRX. It looks like the power for the coil on the Honda is the blk/yel wire. Connect this to the positive terminal on the Metro coil (which would've originally had a blk/wht wire). There's a 2-wire "noise suppression condenser" that should also be connected to the coil positive wire. The other side of the condenser gets grounded. The negative coil terminal (brn/wht wire) gets connected to the ECU through the engine harness at the connector under the hood. It's a brown wire in the engine harness. Also connected to the negative coil terminal (brn/wht wire again) is the 3-wire "noise suppression filter." The black wire on the filter gets grounded. And the brn wire on the filter goes to the tachometer, which appears to be a blue wire on the Honda harness.

[Gasoline Fumes]

I think the ECU tells the fuel pump when to turn on. I don't think you can use the Honda relay without the Honda ECU.

[RobertSmalls]

I dunno, a relay's a relay. There's not much to them, so they should be compatible. There's even a diagram on the side of each relay to explain what's going on inside:



So as log as you attach the wires to equivalent legs, you could use Ford relays in your CRXFi if you wanted to.

[Wonderboy]

Got rid of honda relay, using geo fuel pump & injector relays. Almost done wiring up resistor box, rad. fan, and coil.

New windshield glass is in.

Better understanding of relays now.

Tally Ho!