CRXFi Build Thread (Geo Metro XFi drivetrain in Honda CRX)

[Christ]

Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes

The heater core provides more restriction than a looped hose.

This is true, and for this reason, I agree with blocking the heater core hoses instead of looping them.

To block, you can just add anything solid to both hoses. No need to cut. Even a piece of wood dowel will work.

An even more ideal option, though, would be to control the bypass flow using the CRX's flow control valve (attached to the firewall).

[texanidiot25]

on that note, it does remind me of my CST10. Heater core was bad, so at 1st we just looped it from the water pump to the block while on the road. It was steaming up my windows, basically.

This is what caused the goofy coolant action with my overflow bottle and cooling temps. Unlooped it, and used the old trick of blocking the different diameter hoses with spark plugs (who also share those same ODs as the hoses' IDs) and hose clamped them shut. Since then, no issue with coolant temps or level.

[Wonderboy]

Updates!
Last week I took her out for another engine break in after installing the AT axle from the junkyard. The last time I had taken the car out, I noticed a nasty little sound when turning right. This time it started happening even while going straight. I thought it was the vibration dampener rubbing up against the suspension fork, so I pulled over and got it out of the way... still happened. It ended up being that the axle was stretched too far toward the wheel hub and spun itself out of the knuckle on the transmission side. With the suspension and wheel bits tightly secured, this caused that area of the car to jostle violently. something had to give somewhere, and I later found out that thing was a couple of the engine mount welds . Luckily there is one big long weld left on that mount, but that will have to be something I redo. I really doubt I would've encountered conditions other than this or an impact that would've broken those welds - this jostling was far more violent than a big pothole. I bought a brand new axle from a well known parts store and put it on to discover the rattling went away for all but very extreme right turning. There was still quite a surplus of threads for the axle nut to sacrifice to give more inner axle length, so I got a handful of hardened washers and stuck them on the inner side of the hub and tried it again. Success! Since I clunked the new axle a couple of times, I opted to invoke the warranty and get a fresh one instead of possibly expediting wear. That axle will be here tomorrow and I'll be able to finally drive the car normally (I hope) and fix my welds. Still have to fix the exhaust leaks and get some odds and ends working before inspection (horn, backup lights, bleed the brakes again). I hope to have her ready for the Montreal economy/time/distance rally, but I don't know if I trust her to get me all the way there quite yet. This was all very frustrating at the time, and I didn't feel like posting about it, so here it is. More updates to come after I break that weld

[Christ]

Success!

After our chat, I knew you were disappointed in something, but not entirely discouraged. I'm glad you worked through it and this "Fix" worked out for you.

Hope to see the car someday on the road, if even in current trim.

One of these days, I'm going to head out to Gary's again... when I do, maybe I'll stop out and have a beer with ya or something.

[MetroMPG]

No pressure on getting the car to Montreal. I mean: don't stress out over it (if you are).

[Christ]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

No pressure on getting the car to Montreal. I mean: don't stress out over it (if you are).

No pressure... just oogly eyes.

o.O

[Wonderboy]

Updates!

What the engine mount weld used to look like:


What the top of the engine mount looked like after I ground the failed weld off:


What the repaired bottom part of the mount looks like now (sorry for quality):


What the finished top part of the mount looks like now:


Yay! Cracked welds repaired, Got backup lights and shift up light working. Now the only thing left to do is fix the crack in the exhaust pipe. I have to fix a code 15, so hopefully just replacing the ECT sensor will get rid of that because I know I'm not running too hot.

She's almost roadworthy and starting to get fun to drive now that the engine is breaking in and getting some low-end torque.

[texanidiot25]

The new welds look excellent, has the fish scale look

[Christ]

Very nice job on the new weld, Will. I hope to see it in person sooner than later!

[Wonderboy]

new welds, etc..

Hate to break it to you folks, but that is not my work! I didn't trust myself on such a critical area, so I had the guy who helped me with the initial mounting do the welds. He builds race cars and sells car wax on the side so I told him I'd put his website decal on the car if he helped me out.