CRXFi Build Thread (Geo Metro XFi drivetrain in Honda CRX)

[Christ]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Hope everything goes well this week... I'm really looking forward to seeing the car at GGP.

.

[Gasoline Fumes]

I hate to say it, but I think your engine will fall out.
I'd rethink those engine mounts. Those welds might crack over time. They will be subjected to torque and a lot of vibration. Besides looking weak, you'll get a lot of noise and vibration without the rubber mounts. Can't you weld the Metro mount bracket to the CRX's frame rail, or at least mimic the shape? The driver's side looks OK if the larger center bolt goes into the frame rail.

But I'm no engineer or expert welder, maybe it will be fine.

[Wonderboy]

I hate to say it, but I think your engine will fall out.

I'm not either, but the guy who helped me builds racecars... I figure he knows a little about engine vibration, and he said mine "ain't goin' nowhere!". He also said I could probably hit something and it still wouldn't move. It is pretty frickin solid with only using one rubber mount, so I can feel that concern of being a bit too rigid, but there's also the upsode of pretty much all the torque making it to the wheels. I'll get some opinions from other trusted sources too, but I know it will at least be more than fine for the GGP. GGP or bust!!

[Wonderboy]

Wohooo!!! The CRXFi can now legally travel on roads! Likelihood of GGP appearance at about 80%... Just have to get the harness right and see if she starts...

[Gasoline Fumes]

Yeah, definitely get a few more opinions on the mounts and maybe the axle too. I recently had a similar experience building/rebuilding a small utility trailer. I was about to weld the coupler on, but then got three unsolicited opinions which completely changed how I put it on there. And I think it's much stronger than my original idea. Was my first idea strong enough? Probably, but it wasn't much more work to make it virtually indestructible.

I can't wait to see the CRXFi at the GGP!

[Wonderboy]

Still no thread name change eh?

Anyways, I finished the exhaust system today and looked for radiator hoses at advance/autozone. Neither of them were very helpful.

things that need to be done before the engine runs:
-Harness! Wiring!
-radiator hoses connected to engine safely
-add coolant
-add oil

Physical things that need to happen for the car to move around
-brake lines bled
-transmission fluid
-clutch cable
-tach
-battery placed in rear hatch (previous owner already ran cable!)

Petty stuff:
-new hood - really screwed up one of the hood latch mounting holes
-rug
-pass. seat
-new windshield... this shouldn't be under petty stuff, and I may be able to get away with the big cracks for the weekend, but I really should get that taken care of.
-stereo? Difficult to travel effectively without it - worth the cost for me in alternator draw.

Questions:
Proper procedure for breaking in a newly rebuilt motor?
Use the honda Relay box or the geo? or combination of both?

[texanidiot25]

(Basing off small block chevy knowledge) The basic rule of thumb is 2-3k rpm for 20 minutes. Use break in oil. Do not IDLE! This is very important, as the goal is to keep oil PSI high while the cam(s) are breaking in. If you must shut the car off and restart, make sure to get it back up to speed the moment it cranks. Vary the RPM a little here and there. After 20 minutes, you're good to let it idle and drive. There's debate on how to break in piston rings it seems, some say go easy, some say go hard. The general consensus is to be pretty easy on it, and engine brake to help force the rings to seat.

Honestly with eco-driving there's little worry of being too hard on it. I don't remember the oil change intervals, though. Something like 500, 1000 miles, and then you can switch to what oil you'd like to stick with and use regular intervals.

Used this method on a friend's '75 Camaro with a fresh 350 SBC, and so far so good.

[Wonderboy]

Oh yeah, and before I forget, what are the implications of not having that tiny check valve in the oil gallery? (it sits on the block just below the head gasket) I am very sure that there was never one in there, but all the engine rebuild instructions note it...

[Wonderboy]

Oh yeah, another question... I'm thinking about the wiring and how it is all going to work - do I need to keep the Fuse box that was originally under the metro dash or can I use the CRX's? I don't understand this right out, but I didn't understand anything else involved with this when I started either...

[Gasoline Fumes]

I hear that the check valve is very important. I believe it also acts as a restrictor. The '94 Metro that I'm swapping the XFi engine into had smoke pouring out of the exhaust. 190 PSI compression on all 3 cylinders. When I pulled the head, the check valve was not there. I can't say for sure if the missing check valve was causing the smoking or not. Nor can I tell if the check valve was ever installed to begin with. But my '92 XFi engine does have the check valve.

There's no reason to use the Metro's under dash fuse panel, it really has nothing to do with the engine.

It might be easier to use both the CRX and Metro relay boxes. All you really need from the Metro box are the main relay, fuel pump relay and EFI fuse. They can go anywhere, but it might just be easier to use the whole box. I would NOT use the Honda main relay, I hate those things.