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Old 05-05-2010, 03:38 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes
I hear that the check valve is very important.
!*$% I don't want to hear that, and I don't want to take that thing apart again!

What exactly does the main relay do, and why do you hate the honda one?

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Old 05-05-2010, 11:57 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Got the radiator hoses elbow'd and adapted, so they all fit just peachy now. The next struggle is trying to get the heater core hoses and the evap canister hoses routed (these things are on the wrong side of the engine bay, although I may be able to move the canister). A big setback is that I figure I really need to get me one of those restrictor/oil check valves at the junkyard. That means pulling the head off again <sigh>. I'm taking friday off work to spend a good chunk of tomorrow night with some wires, then hopefully I'll be driving or at least running on friday morning.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:08 AM   #93 (permalink)
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The Honda's "main relay" is the fuel/ECM controller. I bypassed it entirely on my Civic, but I don't remember how I did it. (Was supposed to be a 5 minute fix, but ended up permanent).

Basically, it's a relay that controls a relay that controls the ECM. The first one (that turns on the second one) also turns on the fuel pump... or vice versa. It's a very stupid design, with no fail-safe built in. Those things fail alot, especially if it's the original one (and it probably is). Luckily, they can usually be fixed by opening up the relay box and doing something you're familiar with - soldering. Just re-wet the solder joints, and add more where necessary. The problem is dry solder joints, and nothing more. (It's a relay... what can really fail?)

The oil check valve shouldn't have made smoke come out of the exhaust at all... That "restrictor" just makes it less likely that you're going to run with dry bearings. Think about pushing 30 weight oil through a hole the size of a pencil lead, versus a hole the size of a cigarette... which one do you think the oil will go through easier? The idea is that the restrictor allows the engine to build enough oil pressure to flow oil through the bearings and still flows enough volume to keep the top end lubricated. Remember, the bottom end is under alot more stress than the top. It maintains under violent reciprocation, extreme pressures, and has to spin twice as fast as the top end does.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:11 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Just my opinion, but I still wouldn't even bother using the Metro's harness. It's just too much to strip out both harnesses and make one of the two, versus just moving some wires around under the hood and re-pinning the entire ECM plug for the wires you need (which you'll probably have to do anyway).

You have to remember that the ECM's probably don't mount in the same places, the wires are all going to lead to a different location, etc... That's why I say it's almost universally easier to adapt the harness in the vehicle to the engine you're installing.

What needs to be wired up on the XFi engine?

1 or 2 injectors, a couple of sensors, some sending units. All the wiring you need is already in the engine harness that came w/ the HF, and then some.

Check out a wiring diagram for both vehicles, and change the wires that you connect to the sensors on the engine at the ECM side to the pinouts they'd be attached to at the XFi's ECM, and mount the XFi's ECM in the OE location from the CRX. The wiring should literally take a couple hours, not all day.

(Ok, you've never done this type of wiring before, so all day isn't out of the question, especially if you're not specifically familiar with either (or both) car(s))
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:10 AM   #95 (permalink)
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The Honda main relay is a complicated solution to a simple problem. I carry two spare main relays in the Honda I'm driving. Suzuki just used two separate standard relays.

The beauty of the Metro wiring is that the engine harness runs from the engine to the ECU with a couple of plugs that connect to the rest of the car. Using the Metro harness is the easiest thing to do in this case. It's practically a standalone TBI system. But the ECU will end up on the driver's side, unless you modify the harness.
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:42 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ
All the wiring you need is already in the engine harness that came w/ the HF, and then some.
Although I have to go to gary's tonight again anyway to get a #$%^ oil check valve, and I could technically get a harness up there, the engine part of the harness is not there. The metro harness is lanky enough to run from the pass. side, "approach" the engine from the driver's side, and do its thing with only having to lengthen one or two plug wires. The next thing will be figuring out how to do those "returns" (that smaller ~8 pin plug on the driver's side strut tower), and also figuring out the wiring for the things that aren't on the harness like the ign coil, resistor box, and I think the MAP sensor? that teeny little thing mounted to the firewall with a few tubes running in/out of it.

I'm gonna go ahead and skip the block heater for now. Stupid thing didn't come with the required tees or tubing, and advance/autozone don't have sh!t for elbows/tees. Need to extend the lines that go to the evap canister because I'm using the honda one, mounted on the opposite side from where it is on the metro. I wish you were here Christ I'll figure it out...Hope I have enough time for break-in.
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:09 PM   #97 (permalink)
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The MAP sensor wiring should be in the Metro's engine harness. And the MAP sensor only has one hose connected to it, along with a 3-wire plug. Made by Denso.

Will you be at the GGP even if you don't get it running? I have a '92 XFi harness that I got with my XFi engine. The guy had converted the harness for using the engine on a generator. So the harness is in theory, modified to run the Metro engine outside of a Metro. I have not tested the harness or checked if it was done correctly, but I think he said he had it running like that. I can bring the harness if you want it.
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:26 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wonderboy View Post
Although I have to go to gary's tonight again anyway to get a #$%^ oil check valve, and I could technically get a harness up there, the engine part of the harness is not there. The metro harness is lanky enough to run from the pass. side, "approach" the engine from the driver's side, and do its thing with only having to lengthen one or two plug wires. The next thing will be figuring out how to do those "returns" (that smaller ~8 pin plug on the driver's side strut tower), and also figuring out the wiring for the things that aren't on the harness like the ign coil, resistor box, and I think the MAP sensor? that teeny little thing mounted to the firewall with a few tubes running in/out of it.

I'm gonna go ahead and skip the block heater for now. Stupid thing didn't come with the required tees or tubing, and advance/autozone don't have sh!t for elbows/tees. Need to extend the lines that go to the evap canister because I'm using the honda one, mounted on the opposite side from where it is on the metro. I wish you were here Christ I'll figure it out...Hope I have enough time for break-in.
The Honda has a "BAP" or Barometric absolute pressure sensor, not a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. You'll want to use the one from the XFi, because the BAP probably won't give the correct signals to the ECM.

^^^EGR thingy I was talking about. It is the EGR valve.

I figured out in my head that the 8 pin plug on the left side (driver's side) is the "fuel systems" plug... things that directly control throttle/fueling.

The wires in that plug are INJ1, INJ2, INJ3, INJ4, INJ(+)(common), and the 3 TPS wires. I will look in my manual later to verify (possibly tomorrow), but that's what's in my head right now. All the other sensors, including the ECT, IAT, CPS, and all the sending unit wiring is on the other side of the engine bay, at the right side plug.
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:05 AM   #99 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, I agree with Gas Fumes regarding using the original engine harness on the Metro engine and adapt the few other connections needed to the Honda's chassis harness.

I did exactly that when I swapped a '93 [port injected] twin cam Sentra engine into my earlier '89 Sentra that had a 12 valve [single injector] throttle body equipped engine.

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Old 05-07-2010, 01:09 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Thanks for the input. Gasoline Fumes: yes, I will be coming CRXFi or not. You might as well bring that harness anyway, but I don't think I'll need it...you never know.

I'm fine with the MAP sensor now - it is indeed part of the engine harness, so its just the resistor box and coil I have to hack up, I think.

I got the oil check valve in - that took a good couple of hours plus the time to get it at the junkyard... all for that little ant sized thing >.<

I decided to bypass the heating coil for now since I don't even have a blower motor... that saves a little time. What I'd really love to know is what the hell this hose is, and especially where it goes.

Edit: so it's a brake booster hose - where does it go?


Thanks for the advice, gents. And thanks for renaming the thread.

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