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Old 09-22-2010, 10:44 AM   #121 (permalink)
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I thought it was: rusty, 25% JB weld, and in need of consent adjustments (you must pick at lest two)

Thanks for the updates Brucey.
If you end up needing more belt surface I would think you could get away with using a second belt that uses the AC belt grooves in the CS pulley. This would be rather complicated if you wanted to still have AC, but could be a simpler/cheaper fix than putting new pulleys on all of your accessories.

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Old 09-22-2010, 07:18 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Pulley is on. Fit is great! Gonna need a pulley puller to ever get it off though.

And naturally, while plotting the belt path and measurements with some twine I realized the idler pulley contacts itself between the new idler pulley and the return line from the crank pulley and the echarger pulley. (See my earlier drawing)

Even though it worked for someone else, dont mean it will work for me. Looks like I'll need another idler after all. Off to the junkyard hopefully tomorrow.

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Old 09-23-2010, 10:55 AM   #123 (permalink)
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For those wondering the post with the idler pully drawing is here http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post187726 .

Here is the routing path http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...4&d=1282265119

I have not seen the idler that you are using but try flipping it over so its out of the way, on a pulley that large you should not need to worry about belt slip. Looking at the drawings linked above the two plans for routing will have about the same wrap. Also to me the idler pulley looks like its purpose will mostly be to keep it from rubbing any thing else in the engine.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:51 AM   #124 (permalink)
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(Picture isn't to scale)

That's what I'm talking about. The idler contacts the return line on the bottom. I need the idler because the radiator hose is in the way otherwise. What's funny is a copied the idea for the idler and the path from Skidd's supercharger, and followed his measurements. I guess his supercharger is just lower than my motor shaft. The pulley should also apply reverse tension if I'm thinking right (should both directions taught) I'm going to try moving the idler some but don't have the motivation at the moment since it would require me completely disassembling everything again. Anyone want to come help? heh

Also here are some extra pics of the idler.



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Old 09-23-2010, 05:51 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I would be hesitant to put an idler on the tensioned side of the belt, but it may be doable.........

What about using a different radiator hose? Rerouting the path it takes so you can adjust the pulley upward wouldn't be rocket science- depending on how much flexibility you have in the hose and room under the hood for upward movement, you might be able to fashion a bracket to push the existing hose upwards enough to get it out of the way.

I could see how moving the idler would be a major PITA assuming you had to take it all back out again, so I wonder if you could use a bit of plate steel to move it upwards the inch or so required? The attachment point could be the existing hole, and the tension of the belt should keep the arm in place without additional support. Problem could be how close your belt is to the plate the tensioner pulley is mounted to, since adding a bracket of 1/4" plate would move the pulley further out.

(Isn't that the type of tensioner used for timing belts? It tighens up by twisting around the mounting bolt?)

I hate to say it, considering your previous wait on the custom pulley, but if the motor pulley was an additional inch in diameter, that would move the tensioned part of the belt downward somewhat, maybe making it just a close fit instead of rubbing.

It may be educational to learn the diameter of Skidds supercharger pulley....
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Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.

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Old 09-23-2010, 06:36 PM   #126 (permalink)
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The contact made is just barely touching. Another 1/4" and it would clear. I've been checking for clearances as I go with a long carpenter's L and it still actually clears, just by the time the belt would go on it would be rubbing itself. Thanks for the catch, I think you may be right. I am simply going to redrill the hole 1/2" up, I have enough room to still clear the hose and the pulley.

But I just killed my battery and am leaving town this weekend, so I don't know how soon that will be. In the mean time I'll be looking at batteries to buy for this (which I still haven't done). I was originally planning on T105's, but have decided against it for room and because I plan to have them in the car. So now I'm looking in the 100~150AH range and I would really really like to get it under 600$, so 100 bucks a battery.

PS Skidds was 2.75 I believe.

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Old 09-23-2010, 09:06 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:51 PM   #128 (permalink)
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It's all clear!

The belt path works now, no rubbing on any pulley. I also moved the power steering reservoir forward 2 inches so it can clear the E-pulley.

Tomorrow I hunt for a belt that fits, that's going to be an annoying sell at the auto parts store.

PS: As you can see, the bottom of the 3 vertical bolts looks like it might be in the way of the belt, if so I can simply remove and re-drill, no biggy.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:25 PM   #129 (permalink)
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I assume that this is the standard belt that you need

GOODYEAR Part # 4050345 5 Ribs / Effective Length 34.5" / Outside Length 35.25"
Poly-V; Alternator and Power Steering
or
ACDELCO Part # 5K345 {#88932577} K05 21/32" x 35 1/4"
BELT,SERPENTINE ALT & P/S

Go to Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V Serpentine Belts - SummitRacing.com and select the length belt you need then take the part number into the store and ask for that part number.
I do not think you will have a problem finding the length that you need since they have sizes from 20" to 88"
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:05 PM   #130 (permalink)
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The search for the right part continues!

Played at the store today, looks like I need a 65.5" belt. They had a 65.0 (too small) and a 65.8 (too long, tension-er fully tightened it was ready to jump out when turned on)

Part number should be 5050655 but there is no such belt.

Time to internet!

Edit: Thanks to internetting, I have found there is a belt size between the two. 5050653 (65.3") considering how close the belt size was on the 65.0 I believe this just might be the one to get, now to see if I can find one locally.


Last edited by brucey; 09-28-2010 at 05:18 PM..
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