Engine Oil Change

[beatr911]

Good data! Thanks for posting!

This explicitly shows that oil analysis is the only way to know what the appropriate interval for your oil is. Not guessing, not the color of the oil, not what the advertisements say, not folklore. Science.

I love the recomendation for a 14,000 mile interval next time. And it will probably increase from there.

So, to put this in perspective Redpoint5, what is your driving cycle like? You're in Salem, OR so the climate is relatively temperate = good for oil life.

Oh, and for the curmudgeons, what did the Mobil 1 look like at 11,900 miles?

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by beatr911

I love the recomendation for a 14,000 mile interval next time. And it will probably increase from there.

So, to put this in perspective Redpoint5, what is your driving cycle like? You're in Salem, OR so the climate is relatively temperate = good for oil life.

Oh, and for the curmudgeons, what did the Mobil 1 look like at 11,900 miles?

I change my oil every year in March, when we finally start seeing several warm and clear days in a row. I'll likely not go 14,000 miles since I change on a time schedule, and not on how long I believe the oil will go.

I work in Vancouver Washington, and my commute is 7 miles each way, with half being freeway. There are 9 potential stops along the way, and it takes an average of 13min. This would be an average speed of 32mph.

My fiance also lives 7 miles away and the drive is very similar. I also visit Portland once a week and have to fight stop and go traffic and look for parking spots. Every other week I travel 70mi to Salem to visit parents/grandparents, nearly entirely freeway/country roads. This bumps my average speed up to 40mph.

The oil is very dark, but it remains slightly transparent on the dipstick. Collect any quantity of oil and it just appears black. Visual inspection of oil is worthless. My diesel truck has dark black oil soon after an oil change.

Concerning the slight elevation of lead and iron in my sample; I do 2 things that might contribute to that. First, I run 87 octane but the owners manual recommends 92. I don't hear or feel pinging, but my engine would compensate the timing to accommodate the fuel and driving conditions. Second, I run lower RPM but high load. Accelerating I often maintain 90% load until I get up to speed. I also P&G when there is a downhill to assist my glide so that I'm not affecting traffic as much.

Would the octane or high loads account for increased piston or crank bearing wear?

[mwebb]

Blackstone reports are good for the engine the report is for
only - conditions change - every application is unique -

there are so many puddingheads out there recommending complete nonsense that i try to ignore these threads

most engine oil sold is pure garbage , good only for lighting the barbeque or adding to your heating oil tank

go to the BITOG forums and study and learn

read the bottle
the specifications on the bottle MUST meet the minimum specifications for your application
many well known oils , do not meet any specifications
like ROYAL PURPLE ( big budget for advertising no budget for testing ? )

ALL European specification
ACEA A3 B3 A3 B4 oils are many times BETTER than most anything else yet some are not suitable for certain applications

there is no reason to not use the BEST oil for your particular application
"DINO" oil is never acceptable for any application

3k mile intervals kill cat converters and "dino" oil kills engines and cat converters - NEVER USE IT

[BHarvey]

Originally Posted by mwebb

Blackstone reports are good for the engine the report is for
only - conditions change - every application is unique -

there are so many puddingheads out there recommending complete nonsense that i try to ignore these threads

most engine oil sold is pure garbage , good only for lighting the barbeque or adding to your heating oil tank

go to the BITOG forums and study and learn

read the bottle
the specifications on the bottle MUST meet the minimum specifications for your application
many well known oils , do not meet any specifications
like ROYAL PURPLE ( big budget for advertising no budget for testing ? )

ALL European specification
ACEA A3 B3 A3 B4 oils are many times BETTER than most anything else yet some are not suitable for certain applications

there is no reason to not use the BEST oil for your particular application
"DINO" oil is never acceptable for any application

3k mile intervals kill cat converters and "dino" oil kills engines and cat converters - NEVER USE IT

So, your a BITOG'r, or are you? Why don't you put a post on that site using the last sentence in your post!

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

I'll likely not go 14,000 miles since I change on a time schedule, and not on how long I believe the oil will go.

I don't think you should go 14 K.
The TBN has been dropping like a stone with the increasing mileage.
It's the best indication of the oil's remaining usefulness.

Would the octane or high loads account for increased piston or crank bearing wear?

High load - esp. lugging - will wear down the crank bearings.

[Miller88]

I have to stick to 7500 / 6 months on the Focus - that's what Mr. Ford calls for. Once I'm out of warranty, I'll be extending to 10K (and doing a UOA).

The Jeep I usually go 6 months - because it doesn't get used much and I'm sure the oil gets moisture and acidic from sitting.

I took a friend's car (05 Accord V6) to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change on Sunday. They recommend 3000 mile intervals - even with Synthetic. I had Nextgen (recycled) put in and it should be good for 5K.

The car has sludge buildup in it - otherwise I would have done myself and used a synthetic and said it was good for 7K easily.

Originally Posted by mwebb

Blackstone reports are good for the engine the report is for
only - conditions change - every application is unique -

there are so many puddingheads out there recommending complete nonsense that i try to ignore these threads

most engine oil sold is pure garbage , good only for lighting the barbeque or adding to your heating oil tank

go to the BITOG forums and study and learn

read the bottle
the specifications on the bottle MUST meet the minimum specifications for your application
many well known oils , do not meet any specifications
like ROYAL PURPLE ( big budget for advertising no budget for testing ? )

ALL European specification
ACEA A3 B3 A3 B4 oils are many times BETTER than most anything else yet some are not suitable for certain applications

there is no reason to not use the BEST oil for your particular application
"DINO" oil is never acceptable for any application

3k mile intervals kill cat converters and "dino" oil kills engines and cat converters - NEVER USE IT

From everything I read on there (and I spend too much time on there), it seems like anything under 5K on most dino oils is a waste and ... conventional doesn't cause converters to die.

Having a vehicle that burns a ton of oil ... now that kills converters.

[redpoint5]

I accidentally went 14 months and 16,800 miles on this oil change interval! I had been meaning to change it in March.

[ssnsvibe09]

I am changing my oil once every 16000 kms using 0w-20 full synth, without worry. Nearly all of my trips are at least 10 kms on the weekends with 10 100km trips during the weekdays.

I am not sure how much oil analysis costs... changing oil at manufactures interval allows for normal driving and buffer to harsher environments. In theory condensation is not a concern for me. I sustain extended periods of a hot engine. It might be risk for you and your short trips, but I don't see it as a justification to shorten the interval. That number of oil changes must really add up in cost...

The three month deal diappeared a while ago with GM, maybe other manufacters too. my truck which is 2013 is expected to get fresh oil at the warning indication or once a year which ever is first. I just changed it at 8700 kms, 10 months, thanks to my wife 7 km trips back and forth work in much the same environment as you.

[mcrews]

There is a thread with Blackstone posts. Costs about 35 dollars

[XYZ]

Originally Posted by mcrews

There is a thread with Blackstone posts. Costs about 35 dollars

Does the test cost $35?

By the time you are testing the oil, it is dirty and of questionable usefulness, right? Wouldn't it be more economical simply to change the oil?