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Old 01-31-2008, 08:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I Found a motor

I found a motor. It's not yet tested (jumper cables were in my wife's car) and i thought it said 10 hp but when i got home and cleaned it off i discovered the zer0 was actually a bit of dirt.

I didn't have time to finish posting the images up to image shack because i had to get to work, but here's what i recall about the motor.

Brand: General Electric
Original Use: Electric power jack main drive motor
Cable Connections: 4
RPM: 1600
Volts: 12
Amps: 84 (i think, I'll double check.)
HP: 1 (i thought it said 10HP bah! damn Arizona desert dust!)
Weight: 40lbs (bathroom scale)
Diameter: 6 1/2 inch
Length: 9 3/4 inch
Winding: Series
Cost to me: $30
Untested!

I also jotted down a diagram that i saw on the cover of the lift. it looked like the motor's connection info so i thought it might be important.

THAT drawing i was able to upload:


I'll post up the full stats of the motor when i get home tonight and let the advice pile up over night as i sleep.
I couldn't get the controller because apparently controllers are the first thing to get stripped of parts out there.
One of the covers came off of the motor due to age and was missing. (sealed brush DC) and i took a look in. That is the only other picture i was able to get uploaded today.



I was expecting this to be some kind of a 10HP motor, but was so terriably disappointed when i managed to clean off the dust and discover it was only 1HP. so i know i goofed there, i just don't know how bad.
tomorrow i test it and upload the other pics.

Good news: My wife has granted me permission to go with something other than a pickup truck for testing my first EV build (after i get the electronics together). this leaves more options open.

They have motors there as big as 20 inches in diameter. The problem is that you have to pay before they are even pulled out of the lifts so there is no way to test them before purchase (they pull them, they scrap them). For a 20 diameter motor you can expect to pay about $50. That's a big loss if it doesn't run and no controller.

So go ahead and toss out your first thoughts on this motor to me. i'll post up the complete info later.

and to my wife - Thank you honey, i love you.

BTW - Keep in mind that out here the problem isn't RUST, the problem is DUST - it gets into everything.

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Old 01-31-2008, 10:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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$50 for a motor seems like a reasonable risk, and I guess the big question is, why wouldn't they let you test it? carry a meter with you to test for shorts to ground and continuity thru the windings, and maybe one of those hand held jumper packs for jump starting a car, or some other portable battery set up.
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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They just don't want the hassle of pull it - let me test it - pull another one - let me test that one - etc.

I don't know how to test with a meter. I will start hunting one up - i think i have one in my shed somewhere. (i've only used one to test the fuse boxes in my car)

I can't use my jumper because the motors are still housed in the lift. I doubt one 12v car jumper (good for only one jump at a charge) would be enough to spin a drive motor for a lift that has it's brake controls pulled (many copper wires already pulled) and has it's wheels sitting in at least 4 inches of dirt. a failure to test a motor that way would not necessarily mean the motor is bad. No? (especially if it's a 36 or 48v motor)

If the 1HP motor is good, then how much use can i put it toward? nothing more than a ForkSwift metro? more? less?

Also - is there anything i should do before i test the motor.

On a side note, if i got a 20 inch diameter motor that was good, then how much could one of those do? (best guess)
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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my citicar has a curb weight of 1,100 pounds with batteries, it takes a 3.5 hp motor to go 40mph with it, a 1hp motor would be good for a motorcycle.

if you touch a 12V battery to a 48V motor, it should jump or twitch a little if it's good, but really, first thing to go should be the brushes, a rebuild might not be free, but it's cheaper then a brand new motor, call an electric motor repair shop and ask them what they would charge to do an overhaul on a motor from a <brand name and modle> forklift that you are looking to buy, maybe ask them a few more questions as well, like if they have any recomendations on motors to avoid.
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok. so aim for a 4.0 HP on the low end. The up end depends on what size car has space for it under the hood. Gotcha. I'll recharge my jumper and take it with me next time. HOPEFULLY it will hold a charge for 30 mins.

as for the remaining info on this motor:




Quote:
General Electric
Mod: 5BC 48 JB 711
Rpm: 1600
HP: 1
V: 12
A: 87
Time Rating: 60 Min
Amb Temp: 40C
Ins Class: B
Wound: Series
FR: 48
GEJ: 3122
Serial No: MXN
Fort Wayne Indiana
N.E. 180051 EA
and the motor came from a standing forklift with a 3000lbs capacity.
oh, and the 10 inches length does not include the spindle. just the housing.
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:25 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well, the 1HP motor turned out to not only be too small, but also appears to be dead. I get spark from the jumper cable, but no turning from the motor.

I get paid again one week from today (on Fri the 8th). After V-Day expenses i'll find out how much i can afford for my next motor try. Most likely I'll just go and get the biggest one they have. (hopefully I'll find a car to fit it- how big is too big when you have yet to chose the vehicle?)

I haven't decided what to do yet with the little 1HP tike. I'll either scrap it to recoup some of the cost or i'll tinker with it to learn how to rebuild a motor.

The thing that surprised me the most was how amazingly understanding my wife is being. It give me incentive to make my first EV Build a really impressive vehicle that she'll enjoy should she ever take it out for a drive.

Once i get the motor, electronics, and D-Car then I'll start my build thread.

One thing is for sure now - I'm learning A LOT from this project. I just hope i can finish it.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Hey WaxyChicken,

I am totally digging your pluckyness. Just remember, if you always learn from your mistakes, feel free to make plenty of them.

I just try lots of different things, and that's how I learn. I have learned a few things from working on the electric motorcycle that I plan to improve apon for the electric car.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's never the mistakes i mind - it's the cost.
I just hope i don't get a motor that's TOO big for any car.

There was one there that LOOKED about 14 inches in diameter and maybe 20 to 24 inches in length (a main drive motor). I didn't go with it because there was a dent on one of the vent covers - looked like it might of made contact with the spindle under it. It was 24 2volt cells in the forklift (very dead of course) so that's a 48 volt controller that MIGHT still be good. I'm thinking that when i go back i might pick up that motor and controller if they are still in one piece.

I just wish i had a better idea of what i was doing, but i'll learn.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If you pick up a big motor, you'll probably have to put it in a rear drive vehicle. But that's OK.

FYI, of the 4 motors in our forklift, only one of them - the smallest .6 hp one that ran the power steering pump - had a label with any useful info on it.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hum.... I'd like to stick with front wheel drive - i had a rear wheel drive car once, i didn't like the way it turned. I also don't want a motor that requires so many batteries the car won't move. It looks like i'll just have to wait and see how things work out.
Thanks, Metro.

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