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Old 02-02-2008, 06:58 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Hey Metro,

Why is a bigger motor better for real-wheel drive? Are you just going off the experience that you couldn't fit the bigger motor in the Forkenswift?

I am considering converting a rear-wheel drive Miata. I was going to start a new thread asking about advantage/disadvantage of front vs rear-wheel drive on an electric car.

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Old 02-02-2008, 07:22 AM   #22 (permalink)
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It's just a fit issue. In our car at least, 8 inches is the maximum motor diameter that will fit and still leave room for the right side axle to pass from the diff, behind the motor to the right wheel.

You can get an idea of how close things are in the ForkenSwift in this video @ about 49 seconds - look at the right axle turning behind the motor.


In a RWD car, you'll have tons more lattitude on motor size. And I've even seen some mods done to the firewall / transmission tunnel to permit a big motor in a RWD vehicle. Much easier to do that if you're oversize than sort out axles in a FWD situation.

There are probably some larger FWD cars that would have plenty of room. But the key is to be aware of the distance from the center of the input shaft to the axle that passes behind the motor.
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Old 02-09-2008, 06:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Exclamation My Fat Baby

IT'S AN IT!!!
JUST DELIVERED!

-Delivery Duration:
1 hour by myself, 2nd hour with a neighbor we tried to wrestle this thing out of my trunk (put in by a fork lift) then some guy walking down the street said "You guys need help?" and he lifted it out like it was made of paper.
-Delivery Time: 2pm AZ Time
-Delivery Weight: 240 + (bathroom scale on soft ground... the scale is now warped.)
-Original Parent: Crane Forklift Electric Riding Forklift Main Drive Motor, Approx weight of the Forklift w/o batts 3,100lbs

Measured Size:
Weight: 240+ lbs
Case Length: 15 inches
Case Radius: 5.75 to 6 inches
Case Diameter: Approx 12 inches
Spindel: 1+ inches.
Gear Sex: Male

Case Markings:
Bolt Attachments: 4
Sensor? Attachments: 2
Bolt Labels: D1, D2, A1, A2
Sensor Labels: PSL (both) shaped like 2 prong outlets.
10 02 97 (Mfg date?)
Case Label:
Quote:
Originally Posted by TagLabel
Manufacturer: CROWN Company
Part No: 020347-001
Serial: 5236
Volts: 36/48 DC
Rating: 7.4/9.6KW
Model: W11AB02
Duty: 1Hour
Insulation: Class H
7400W/36V=205.5A
9600W/48V=200A
(did i do that right? that's Clucking huge, no?)

So.... is my motor still too small?

I tried a 12v car battery (briefly) with no motion, so i'll check the brushes after evaluations come in from all my friends on the forums.
The electric spark results i got were from connecting A1 to A2 and D1 to D2.
I also don't know if the PSL plugs are for sensors or some type of control interface to actually engage the motor.

Anything you can tell me will be helpful - don't forget, you're trying to help someone with a brain the size of a fowl do an EV. (target vehicle not yet chosen, it looks like I'll have to go with a RWDrive with tons of batt space.)

Thumbnails:


EDIT:
Cost to me: $60
4? brushes (or maybe it's 8 brushes in 4 pairs?)
4 brush vents (or are the rubber seals missing?)

Last edited by WaxyChicken; 02-09-2008 at 07:09 PM..
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Old 02-09-2008, 06:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'd like to know how someone that lacks the ability to fix an oil line leak is now capable of building an EV?
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Old 02-09-2008, 06:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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it's a bird thing.
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I E-mailed Crown Forklift, at best I'll probably get a response on Monday. It feels like an eternity away.
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Old 02-09-2008, 10:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Can anyone tell me what the PSL ports are for on the motor? Is that for speed sensors?
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Does the motor shaft turn by hand? No idea about PSL.

Why do you need to talk to Crown? (About PSL?)

Sweet deal! This motor is very similar in size & design to the drive motor we took out of our Baker forklift, and sold to someone building a bigger EV conversion (bigger than a Metro I mean).
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:47 AM   #29 (permalink)
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One way to 'test' a series DC motor is to connect A1 to D2 with a jumper wire (say #4 or so) This connects the missing part of the series. Connect a 12v battery to A2 and D1, and the motor will turn. (you may want to strap it down do it doesn't roll off somewhere due to torque...)

Here is a diagram - The motor has two basic parts - the stator (D1 and D2 are stator end connections) and the armature (A1 and A2 are armature end connections). In a series motor, they are (as you would guess...) connected in series. So ->

+ A2 ~~~~A1 <jumper wire> D2 ~~~~D1 -

The reason you created sparks when A1 and A2 were connected was that you were running the battery power through the brushes, and through the armature (essentially a short). Same reason with D1 and D2 spark - 'shorted' both ends of the stator. Both need to be powered (in series) to make the motor turn.
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Old 02-10-2008, 12:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Looks like a motor built for a tank!

Do you know what car you want to convert yet? That looks like a pretty good sized motor. Might be OK for a pickup truck?

Also, 4 power lugs is a good thing!

Makes your motor revearsable!

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Last edited by bennelson; 02-10-2008 at 12:51 PM..
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