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Old 03-12-2009, 10:52 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Bomber Man View Post
Could just find a relay that is rated for the amperage/voltage you are running and have it triggered by something of lower power demands like a light duty switch.
That's the definition of a contactor!

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Old 03-13-2009, 11:17 AM   #62 (permalink)
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What he said

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Why not use stainless bolts for the lugs? Corrosion wouldn't be a problem, and I doubt the conductivity difference would be an issue (all stainless bolts in the ForkenSwift's circuits). But maybe I'm missing something. You can get brass bolts if you want - Paul got some for his controller project.
We use stainless nuts on the batteries in the postal trucks.
You can get them from any fastener store and many hardware stores.
Special battery nuts (taller with a flanged mating side) are available from the truck supply stores or your local truck stop.
Brass is good for corrosion resistance, but after the nuts have been in place through several seasons they are very hard to remove and brass tends to lose its nice hard edges under high removal torque.

My .02,
S.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:37 AM   #63 (permalink)
EV test pilot
 
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My cables are bolted to the controller with just regular bolts and nuts. No problems at all, but I will put some nice stainless steel ones on there when I re-do my cabling.
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:47 PM   #64 (permalink)
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It fits


Also I tried the front springs in the back and they suck. So bennelson you can toss those springs I sent you in the trash. The perfect springs for anyone needing something better are the front springs out of a ~93 Ford Ranger V6, they are the Exact diameter and the mounting pockets are the right size. With those mine sat up like it had a lift kit under it. I cut a coil off them and it is about right. For you guys running lots of weight running them stock would probably hold anything you can stick in the back. It also fixes the handling with the extra weight. The middle pic is with the springs uncut

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Old 03-13-2009, 09:36 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote X View Post
For you guys running lots of weight running them stock would probably hold anything you can stick in the back. It also fixes the handling with the extra weight.
That would be me!

I don't think anyone on this forum has a heavier Metro than I do!

So coils from the FRONT of a RANGER for the BACK of a METRO?
Brilliant!

That motor looks beautiful the way it is in there!
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:36 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I guess putting the other 2 pictures of the sprocket sitting in place would be nice

I bet you will still have to cut a bit off the Ranger springs. I had to use a spring compressor to get them in there full size. With my 6 batteries and me standing in the trunk it still was a lot higher than it needed to be.

The 4 cyl Ranger springs are lighter and the V8 springs are heavier. So if you think your car is up to it try a V8 set I think the year range to look for is like 85-94 so that gives a pretty good chance of finding them cheap. Explorer springs would probably also work but I am not really sure. I need to look around for a stiff replacement front set so I could get some decent handling out of the car and it won't ride so soft.
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:47 AM   #67 (permalink)
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One more question for you guys. How much heat does the controller put out?

I can mount it behind the seat in a nice spot but it won't get a lot of airflow. Nothing would be against it but I am thinking if it generates a lot of heat then it would probably overheat without a fan if I mount it there. I don't want to put it under the hood since it will get wet. I can put it in the trunk but then it will be in an enclosed space and might not get much airflow there either. I don't know how much power it actually dissipates so I am not sure what to do with it.

The battery charger has a pair of fans so I figure mount it under the passenger side battery holder and run the power wire over to the drivers side fender right behind the door. I can mount a port in the body there so I won't forget and drive off with it still plugged in.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:41 AM   #68 (permalink)
EV test pilot
 
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Electric Cycle - '81 Kawasaki KZ440
90 day: 334.6 mpg (US)

S10 - '95 Chevy S10
90 day: 30.48 mpg (US)

Electro-Metro - '96 Ben Nelson's "Electro-Metro"
90 day: 129.81 mpg (US)

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My controller hardly puts out any heat.

Since yours is a (plug-in) hybrid, instead of a pure EV, you will be using the controller much less than you would otherwise, so that's a good thing. It means less heat, less wear and tear, etc.

I like the idea of mounting things in the trunk because they are all protected that way - no water getting in or anything.

You are in a warmer climate than I am though.

Typically, it is recommended that you mount the controller as close to the motor as you can. If you are using good, thick cable, I don't think that's a real big deal either though.

So here's what you do. Put the controller where you want. If you find that it gets warm, ad a big heat sink/fan to it.

For the battery charger, you want to use an "interlock". You need a 120V relay that will disable turning your car on when power is applied to it. That's another good reason for a main contactor, you can just make the interlock interrupt the power to the main contactor coil. If your car is plugged in, the main contactor will not turn on, and you can't drive your car.

Which controller do you have/are getting? I must have missed that.
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:14 AM   #69 (permalink)
nut
 
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I got the Kelley 72V 300A controller.

I will probably go ahead and mount it behind the seat, unless I can find a spot inside the dash to mount it. I should get the motor mounted up and the chain on today and if I have time I will take the dash apart and see where I can mount it at.
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:04 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Plasma cutter decided to die today so I didn't get much done. I ended up using a chop saw and angle grinder to make the motor mounting plate. Not pretty but I don't want to wait for a week for my plasma cutter to get fixed.



I got half the frame made up for mounting the motor. The adjustable side isn't done yet. I don't think I need much of an ajustment range but a little bit would be good. I will probably redo most of this later one once I cut some nicer looking and fitting parts out with my plasma cutter but for now it will do just fine.

After finishing up the bracket I just have to remount the radiator and MSD module and assemble the axle properly. Then it is just a matter of wiring it all up and seeing what happens.

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