Geo Tracker Kubota Diesel Engine Swap

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by motiszm

Any updates? I have a 1993 4 door JLX suzuki sidekick that I'm planning on doing a diesel conversion to so this thread interests me greatly.

Sorry about being so slow to get back to you. I started working on it again this weekend. I ordered a new turbo, and completed the exhaust system. I have at least a dozen odds and ends to take care of still, but I should be driving it around again soon.

Any idea what engine you're going to use?

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by skyking

You would be shocked at the reduced cooling requirements a diesel brings to the table. I know I was!

The rad is massively over-sized for the engine anyway... probably to the point of being detrimentally large. I will definitely try some blockage.

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by JackMcCornack

Tell me about it! I'm using a D1105T (slightly bigger than yours) on MAX and I gradually worked my way down to a 5" x 5-1/2" square air inlet, no fan (though I'll add a electric fan before I go any smaller) and no problems, including midwest traffic jams in July. More info on my MAX blog below; it's in MAX Update No. 80: Cooling Tests and Travels

Energy Matters Blog - Renewable Energy, Energy-Efficient Homes, Green Cars

Perfect! I'm back on the project after a painfully long time away from it. I'll be taking care of some pressing mandatory stuff, then it will be on to the aero improvements, experimentation, etc.

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by v2squared

I have the 1500 turbo size bigger than jacks. with the gearing adjusted I can get 75 mph on flat ground in 5th, 6% grades I'm at 55 in 3rd. I get 39 ish city and alittle better HWy 65 plus. If I could dottle around at 55 top 60 best tank ave 44 mpg.

This is in a 66 triumph 2000 4 door sedan, with the airobreaking design as yours ie a brick on wheels.

I like it! I bet drivers are a lot more accepting of a slow-goer when the car looks rare and unique.

[DieselDrewski]

Sorry for vanishing all of a sudden.... there are too many fun things to do, and never enough time. I worked on the Tracker's exhaust system and turbo this weekend, and decided the best move was to get a new IHI RHB31 (same thing as current) to resolve the compressor-side oil leak issue. There seemed to be quite a bit of side-play of the turbo shaft. I could have tried to rebuild it, but there would have been no guarantees.
Here aree the odds and ends to do that I can think of:
1) install new turbo
2) Bolt up remainder of tail pipe
3) Trim a little more material from the adapter plate where the clutch cable passes through ( I didn't get the hole in the right place the first time, and the cable rubs a bit on the bottom of the hole)
4) redo the shift bushing (the one I made popped out)
5) Permanently mount the boost gauge and wire its light
6) tidy up the wiring, in-cab mostly. Move the glow plug relay circuit supply from B+ to ignition-switched. Connect the coolant temp sensor wire
7) Increase maximum engine speed setting
8) Get new rad hoses (currently old and leaky.)
9) Make heat shield around the turbo (it's in very close proximity to the brake master cylinder and brake lines
10) Modify fuel filler neck to accept diesel nozzle.
11) sea-foam the engine, oil and fuel side
12) get replacement tires (any suggestions?)
13) Take apart and repair front hub locks (I discovered they are permanently engaged)
14) Make system to interface tachometer
15) Make vacuum supply system for the brakes
16) Plumb heater core
17+) Aero mods? Fuel flow meter and custom MPG computer?

[Varn]

I wonder if your lack of speed is from the gearing. Probably the engine governor is set for about 3600 rpm. You might be able to modify your governor but then the engine will be above the torque curve.

Maybe putting big tires might help you alleviate some of the gearing issues.

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by Varn

I wonder if your lack of speed is from the gearing. Probably the engine governor is set for about 3600 rpm. You might be able to modify your governor but then the engine will be above the torque curve.

Maybe putting big tires might help you alleviate some of the gearing issues.

I think you are correct. There is an external stop screw on the throttle that would be ready to adjust. Larger ties are an option, also. Would those be generally less efficient?

[Varn]

I know on my Japanese tractors, the diesel engines can't over rev. At full throttle they will run 3000 rpm whether in gear or neutral.

Have always felt that the high compression of the design really limits the efficiency at high rpm.

[DieselDrewski]

Originally Posted by Varn

I know on my Japanese tractors, the diesel engines can't over rev. At full throttle they will run 3000 rpm whether in gear or neutral.

Have always felt that the high compression of the design really limits the efficiency at high rpm.

I'm sure that it isn't best idea. It is strictly to compensate for gearing that isn't quite tall enough.

[Varn]

The rpm that the PTO is made to run at is 2400. When I get these engine warm, I adjust the rpm to 2400 and leave it there. 3000 is not the usual unless doing some road travel. I was surprised that the engine could not be pushed any further.

The governor cuts the fuel back gradually as the rpm builds. This starts above 2400rpm. My 19 hp is a one liter 2 cylinder my 21hp is a 1.2l 3 cylinder. Pretty similar to yours.

I doubt if adjusting a single screw on the fuel pump is anything that you should try without much investigation.

Your best option in my opinion is to not push your engine harder but consider taller gearing, taller tires. Something to make the engine run about 2400.

Originally Posted by DieselDrewski

I'm sure that it isn't best idea. It is strictly to compensate for gearing that isn't quite tall enough.