10-10-2020, 05:45 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Gliding instead of regen-braking - Nissan Leaf
Hi,
I recently made a video on some hypermiling basics for EVs, and I have also developed a feature to enable gliding whilst in Drive mode. This is not possible on the standard Nissan Leaf, so it is a very nice upgrade.
Hope you like it, and this is probably no news to anyone on this forum
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10-10-2020, 09:04 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Makes sense as you lose at least 10% every time you take the energy out and try to put it back in.
Would you know of anyone who can reprogram the vcm to run quicker ramp motor ramp up rates, more torque and horsepower?
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-10-2020, 11:24 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Would you know of anyone who can reprogram the vcm to run quicker ramp motor ramp up rates, more torque and horsepower?
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I have tried. See this thread for more info: Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf) - Page 7 - Japtoys.net
TLDR: Inverter firmware is locked to 80kW no matter what you try to send to it.
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10-10-2020, 11:35 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Pretty sure it's a firmware issue since over on DIYELECTRIC, they discovered that rapid ramp up caused the power controlling silicon to "ring" then self destruct. You could parallel a fairly high resistance to the pedal pot and get a similar effect but within the control parameters.
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10-10-2020, 10:14 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Ok that was always a possibility. How about speeding up the motor ramp up rates?
I think now in factory form I can't get 80kw going to the motor until it's spinning fast enough to be going at least 55kph. What if the motor could be brought up to full power at say 40kph.
Eco can stay eco but make D, since it's a 2011 the trailer pulling and logging mode.
I'm going to go read that now.
Here are some of the horrible things I do to the leaf.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...-36505-11.html
Reason why a bigger battery and more motor power would be very welcome.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
Last edited by oil pan 4; 10-10-2020 at 10:45 PM..
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10-10-2020, 10:31 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Ok wow that is fascinating.
They ran the leaf drive line for over 3 hours at power levels that would kill the battery anywhere between 20 and 30 minutes.
At maximum power consumption 94mph my leaf is usually drawing less than 40kw on level ground.
So it looks like 80kw of power and about 256nm of torque are the hard stops.
What's the lowest RPM where 256mn could be achieved with out wrecking anything?
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-11-2020, 01:48 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Well technically zero rpm, but that's assuming that the cabling can deliver that power, the silicon shouldn't care until it hits the amp or heat limits. after that the motor tends to overheat. At these power levels, stuff gets hot fairly fast
You're pushing maybe 350 amps at this level? FWIW, my DC series Kostov has an armature max amps of 440 @192 v for 1 minute and the klick brush sensor fires at 220C
Should be a readable table somewhere that you can modify but that's above my pay grade
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10-11-2020, 05:21 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Normal locked rotor torque is usually around 2 to 2.5 times rated torque, but motors don't really like that. What the motor is attached to really might not like that.
Then with synchronous motors like the leaf has locked rotor torque could be even higher if you can supply the juice with out smoking a stator or armature winding.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-12-2020, 10:50 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Somewhat crazed
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Precisely how do you lock the rotor in an EV or even why would you try?
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10-12-2020, 06:19 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Location: NewMexico (USA)
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Every time you stop the car.
It's only locked until the car starts moving.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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