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Old 04-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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(And, lately, buttered with home-made maple syrup on top. Mmmm...)
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The P1449 code[/B] relates to the IMA battery.....
Clearing the code via the ScanGauge & resetting the CEL didn't help.
The P1449 (and some other IMA codes) can't be effectively cleared by the ScanGauge. (They'll clear, but pop right back up in a second or two.) What you need to do is to pull fuse #18 from the fuse box by the driver's left leg, wait 10 seconds, and put it back in. The code should be cleared. It's same as disconnecting the 12-volt battery, but doesn't seem to reset the CD clock or (most of the time) ScanGauge settings.

It's quite possible that the code was set by an intermittent problem, like for instance flooring it and trying for full assist when the pack's at low charge, or (if it's weak) going below a certain charge level and getting a recal. In that case you should be able to keep on driving (more gently :-)) for quite some time, until you can rebalance the pack.

This is in fact pretty much what happened to mine a couple of years ago. Would have to pull the fuse every week or two (even epoxied a bit of cord onto it to make it easy to find in the dark), eventually rebalanced the pack and it worked fine, though I'm thinking I may have to do another rebalance soon.

So thanks to owner/dealer ignorance, you may have scored a real bargain!

PS: Re safety/smog inspection, the record of the code will stay in the OBDI system for a while - not sure just how long - so depending on local requirements you may need to drive for a while. I _think_ it takes a certain number of engine warming from cold to operating temp to clear permanently, but I never did find a definitive answer.

Last edited by jamesqf; 04-20-2011 at 08:19 PM..
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks for that info - equating fuse #18 with the 12v reset. I wasn't 100% sure they were equivalent for what I was trying to do.

Anyway, I wish I could report that my "fix" was as long-lasting as yours, but it wasn't. The car popped the P1449 & IMA lights again after a few more drives (during an automatic battery recalibration, in fact).

That means I'll reset it once more, for the mechanical inspection. Once it passes, I'll be switching the pack off until I have a chance to refurbish it.

In Ontario, the only inspection needed for hybrid vehicles is mechanical (they're exempt from "Drive Clean" emissions testing). So the mechanic won't be probing the computer for past codes.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Very jealous, wish I had one. I can't wait to see what sort of numbers you pull with that!
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:17 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Anyway, I wish I could report that my "fix" was as long-lasting as yours, but it wasn't. The car lit the P1449 & IMA lights again after a few more drives (during an automatic battery recalibration, in fact).
Darn! But even without assist, it's pretty driveable, as long as the DC/DC keeps charging. You can monitor this by looking at voltage with the ScanGauge - it should run about 13.5V, if the DC/DC quits it'll drop to 12V or less.

Also the pack rebalancing isn't too difficult, though time-consuming. And worst case, you can find salvage packs for under $500.
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:50 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Picked up the extra keys from the previous owner today.

Found out the real reason the car was repainted (not from a scrape on the side I thought I saw - must have been a different car).

They had bought one of those winter garage/tent things to protect the car...



... and got hit by a big wind storm. It collapsed on top of the car and beat the crap out of it. Definition of irony.

The bill for body & paint work was $7k. :-O Most, but not all, was picked up by insurance.

They also said they had $1500 worth of transmission work done at the Honda dealer a couple of years ago, but didn't recall the specifics. 2nd gear synchro repair? They said they'd look for receipts for maintenance/repairs to give me.
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:56 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
But even without assist, it's pretty driveable, as long as the DC/DC keeps charging.
Agreed - I've confirmed that the DC-DC is still working with the P1449/IMA warning lights on, and also when the pack's shut off via the big switch.

Without assist, it actually feels a lot like the Blackfly, with its "too-tall" gearing.

The Insight's engine sometimes has a wicked jerky stutter/judder under some driving conditions, and it's more evident without IMA to smooth things over. I understand it's potentially from blocked EGR, and have located the DIY EGR cleaning thread on InsightCentral.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:26 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Would the dealer be able to look up the maintenance history of the vehicle?

Toyota has a database that owners can check for all service calls.

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Old 04-22-2011, 09:00 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
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They also said they had $1500 worth of transmission work done at the Honda dealer a couple of years ago, but didn't recall the specifics. 2nd gear synchro repair? They said they'd look for receipts for maintenance/repairs to give me.
Hopefully, it was an input shaft bearing replacement or synchros. That way you don't have to worry about those often-abused Insight parts.

Let us know how dirty your EGR manifold was. Mine was cruddy, but not blocked.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:19 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Without assist, it actually feels a lot like the Blackfly, with its "too-tall" gearing.
Yes. That's one thing about driving. You can quite easily cruise highway speeds in 3rd, and not notice. If you want to pass or accelerate, master the 5th-3rd shift.

The gearing also produces another oddity: you can sometimes get better highway mpg by going faster. If for instance you're climbing a not-to-steep hill, going faster in 5th to keep revs up (but below the 3K rpm VTEC shift point) is better than downshifting and sending revs over 3K.

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