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Old 06-26-2014, 03:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Heavy duty modding.

I bought a 1982 GMC Sierra 3500 1-ton dually flatbed with a 350 and TH400. Needed it for hauling heavy things like lathes and milling machines.

Only cost $1,000 with 127K miles. It was a city owned truck and came with a massive folder of maintenance records so I know things like when the transmission was sent off for repairs and the engine had new rings and bearings, every time the oil was changed, when new pieces were welded onto the cab to cure the typical GM pickup rot...

Since it has a 2bbl carb (must have been changed because the VIN indicates a 4bbl) and the trans is only a 3 speed with no lockup I figured at some future time I'd upgrade it to TBI and possibly swap in a 700R4 to help it suck less gasoline.

So I was perusing Craigslist and saw a 1991 Chevy pickup 350 with TBI and 700R4, u-pull for $175 because the owner just wants to make a pickup bed trailer. Yowza! I can grab all the parts other than the radiator and AC stuff that's already spoken for. (My truck doesn't have AC anyway, darnit!)

I contacted the guy, went and heard it run, sounds great. Flipped over $100 and said I'd be back this Friday morning to get it.

Did a 40 mile round trip today to spend $260 on new 2.75" thick tongue and groove laminated boards for the flatbed deck and used nearly 1/4 tank of gas. I swear I heard a constant toilet flushing sound from the engine compartment... Using a GPS speedometer I found the truck's speedo reads about 5 MPH fast all the way up to at least 60, so that'll have to be addressed with the upgrade.

Back home, I jacked up one rear wheel to give it a couple of turns and found it has the 4.56 gears. (Anything on the truck that had an axle code is long gone.)

Timeline for the upgrade project has been moved up to ASAP! The overdrive will drop the final ratio to 3.17.

Another benefit of the upgrade will be a boost from a paltry 160 HP to 190 or 200~210 if the 1991 isn't a 1-ton.

Costs so far.
$1,060 Truck (6% tax)
$175 engine, transmission and all wiring etc
$260-ish 18 new 10 foot boards for decking

Call it $1500, minus whatever I can get for a well maintained and good running vintage 350 and TH400, plus whatever things I may need to buy for merging the 1991 drivetrain with a 1982 truck.

DSCN0283 by g_alan_e, on Flickr

PS: The seat has very nice red velour upholstery and is quite comfy.

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Old 06-26-2014, 05:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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love the square bodies. owned an 81 for 15 years. had a 90 square body cab/chassis 1 ton, cut frame, added a long bed. put in a 4.3 and added a carb and it ran great.
the 700r is not known for heavy hauling but if you take it easy, it will last a long time. Corvette servo helps add some strength. the TBI will need the ECM.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That's a stout truck. I like its no-nonsense style.

I think the axle ratio will do a pretty good job of protecting the tranny from experiencing too heavy a load, but since we're talking about a SBC if you decide you want to bolt up something different, a world of opportunity lies before you.
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Old 06-26-2014, 04:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The engine and trans are from another pickup, and being a 91 should have the bugs and weaknesses flushed out of the transmission. The donor truck has a big toolbox body on it and was used for heavy hauling.

Should be no problems with transmission durability.

My wallet is already crying over how much gas it's going to take to use the truck to go and get the 91 drivetrain, then before I can tear into the swap I have one more, longer, trip to use the gas hog for. Have to pick up a load of metal lathe parts.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You might have been better off with a edelbrock 650 with vacuum secondaries being watched by a wide band oxygen sensor with gauge.
People really hated GM tbi on pretty much everything.

To make the 400r4 live in a 1ton you are going to want a transmission temp gauge and huge cooler for summer time. I would even recommend using the pure stock transmission cooler in winter and a huge cooler in summer. I dont think they like running cold.
The put in a manual lock up so you can run in 3rd gear with the TC locked up. Other wise they dont lock up unless in over drive.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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TBI is great for mpg. My 91 would be better if I had thought about it before I built it. Make sure you get all the wiring.

The 12FF in rear is going to be harder to find tall gears for. Axle codes are on the inside of the glove box.

A 6.2 would get much better mpg, but its a dog.

A 700r4 is decent, basically an overdrive th350. I've got a 4l80 (only year the OBS got them), and its taken a beating.

I'd think about tucking in the headache bar to cab width and radiusing the underbed toolbox edges also.
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Long time, no update!

It only made it halfway home from picking up the 1991 drivetrain. The transmission died hard, and not in a Bruce Willis action movie way but with a loud squeal and failure to proceed. So it came home on the back of a bigger flatbed and the swap process commenced.

The 1991 engine got mostly taken apart. New King crank and rod bearings. New billet aluminum distributor to replace the original that had near 1/4" of slop in its shaft (HOW did the thing even run at all?!?). New piston rings and honed the cylinders. Also put in a new oil pump and timing set along with all new seals and gaskets and a thorough de-crudding of the oily, explody and wet areas.

I sold the 700R4 that came with the 91 engine and bought a rebuilt one online, with the mechanical speedo drive parts added. Speed signal to the ECM is provided by a 2 PPR adapter from Jags That Run. It also got treated to a new TPR and pair of injectors and a new O2 sensor. Bought a threaded bung, drilled a hole at the Y in the 1982 left exhaust manifold and brazed it in.

The cheapo idiot light cluster with nothing but a big fuel gauge and speedo got swapped for the version with proper amp, temp and oil gauges. Same connectors but had to relocate a lot of wires in them.

After wasting tons of time trying to figure out why the stock 1991 electrics would not open the injectors and squirt fuel, I spent $375 for an aftermarket wiring harness and GM ECM with modified programming that's supposed to lock up the TCC in both 3rd and 4th. It also did away with the ESC module and knock sensor. How? I don't know, but it runs really nice.

Much progress has been made putting it back together, got the front back together, got the new dash pad installed too. Picked an Alpine digital tune two shaft radio from a junkyard - just happens to be the exact model that was OE in late 1980's Lamborghini Countach. Had to do some creative mounting to fit a pair of 4 inch two way speakers into the stock outboard dash mounts (another junkyard pick) so the tweeters didn't stick up above the stock speaker height.

Had to install a new headlight switch. Original had some internal short which turned the headlights on at the first stop and made the dimmer not work. I also installed a headlight relay kit and new halogen bulbs.

Another mod is a 1987+ tilt column and intermittent wiper module. There's cruise control switches on the signal/wiper stalk but that's an upgrade for later. Of course I had to find a GMC sport wheel horn button to replace the Chevy one. (The Dodge mudflaps are staying, just because.)

Not being a smoker, I came up with another use for the flip out ashtray. I designed and 3D printed a plate to hold three 12V sockets and a pair of USB charging ports. I even put a little GMC logo on it.

Passenger door window is jammed up, won't roll down, so that's on the To-Fix list, which will entail installing the new window felt and rubber kit.

It will soon be ready to roll out... to the tire shop to pay through the nose for having six 16" tires mounted and balanced. I found a pair for the front and four for the back good tires on Craigslist, though one of the four is different. Quiet looking highway tread instead of the rough and noisy all terrain (and leaky retreads on the back) that came on it. Noise = wasted energy = not helping efficiency, right?
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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1982! Damn, that thing looks better than most cars from the early 2000's around here. I agree with superfuel's suggestions, especially that top bar poking out. On an 1800 mile trip to and from canada to pick up my CBR, we were towing a trailer that had a straight up door like that, and we got about 18-20 mpg. At the speeds we were doing, the car should be able to get high 20s maybe low 30s, then add the trailer, and it shouldn't hurt too much, but it did. The car got better gas mileage with the bike on the trailer!

Fix that aero! Unless you don't do much high speed driving.
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention the new, cast steel Eagle crankshaft.

Yesterday was a waste. Went to change the crank position sensor on the 302 V8 and AWD modded 02 Sport Trac. Bottom bolt out OK. Top bolt, not s'OK. Corners rounded off. went and bought some extra special, guaranteed to grip whatever is left of the flanks sockets.

It gripped, and ripped more off. Grade 5 bolt and it peeled like chewing gum. How the heck did Ford get so much torque on a 1/4-20 bolt with a 5/16" head? I sprayed on some liquid wrench to soak overnight and tomorrow will try a Duralast Grip-Rite socket.

Replacement bolts will be grade 8 with 3/8" heads.
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention the new, cast steel Eagle crankshaft.

Yesterday was a waste. Went to change the crank position sensor on the 302 V8 and AWD modded 02 Sport Trac. Bottom bolt out OK. Top bolt, not s'OK. Corners rounded off. went and bought some extra special, guaranteed to grip whatever is left of the flanks sockets.

It gripped, and ripped more off. Grade 5 bolt and it peeled like chewing gum. How the heck did Ford get so much torque on a 1/4-20 bolt with a 5/16" head? I sprayed on some liquid wrench to soak overnight and tomorrow will try a Duralast Grip-Rite socket.

Replacement bolts will be grade 8 with 3/8" heads.

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