Hi all from Kiwi in central Canada (pickup aero cap / topper - pictures)

[freebeard]

Anyways thanks for the input freebeard. Man i need a shop!

Me, too. There are seams in the rubber sheet? Where are they. I could see rubber cement to hold the rubber sheet against the stringers, but I suspect there would be some minimum overlap needed to resist shear.

Four posts in less than an hour? If no-one has replied you can just edit the initial post.

Tying everything together in flat black would help visually. It sounds like a job for 6-8 coats of Plastidip S. It would 'similarize' various materials and probably match the rubber sheet on the cap.

[aerohead]

The rendering looks real good! I can't see it scaring anyone off.
Plenty of testosterone!

[rumdog]

Yea freebeard theres a seam running down each side, where top meets side. It is stapled right now. I do have about 2 inches overlap, think it would be plenty of area to bond. More if i smooth it out!
Plastidip S . Noted! And needed. does that help with rust?

[QUOTE]vision

The rendering looks real good! I can't see it scaring anyone off.
Plenty of testosterone!

/QUOTE]

ha can you tell i like F1! im not looking for downforce but to increase the pressure behind the truck. In reallity i had chains on the truck this week, so i picture the rear wheel skirts opening like a bus cargo door. And the skirts/macho diffuser may not be as low as one would like.

[freebeard]

The quote looks like it does because there's a missing '[' on the closing tag.

2 inches of overlap might be enough. Plastidip is a rubberized coating that encapsulates the surface

https://www.youtube.com/user/DipYourCarcom

Here's a picture I made to show a 4-bar link for a front fenderskirt.



If the lower bars are longer, then it would 'clamshell' open.

[rumdog]

Yea exactly! Just longer arms so it lifts higher, for full wheel access... i will get the kids lego out to play with the 4 bar when the time comes. And thanks for the forum tips freebeard, i need em!

[aerohead]

Cereal box chipboard links,cork board base,push-pin anchor pivots,and tacks (upside down with points up) flying pivots are great for proofing out mechanisms on a tabletop.
If something is going to bind up,you'll know in a moment.

[freebeard]

Maybe it's worth pointing out that the thing to take away from that fender-skirt model is that the two top bars are connected in torsion so any tendency for the pivots on the ends of the bars (and hence the skirt itself) to rock is thwarted.

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Here's a picture I made to show a 4-bar link for a front fenderskirt.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing that.

[rumdog]

So its finally warm enough to work outside without it hurting... time for some wheel skirts!
I cut out most of the rust with a zipdisk, then made a wood brace by gluing two strips of oak together and clamped them in a curved mold. Made a template out of cardboard, transfered it to the coroplast political signs, which were sprayed black and screwed them on with sharp metal screws and washers. BOOM!
It took about 3 hours and ten bucks. Stoaked!

[rumdog]

Took some pics today of the rust bucket for the template test... should be interesting.
And took some with the trailer on and topper up, to show potential highway position... need to bolt topper to bed more first. ...just dont want any trouble from semi wash in a crosswind.
I did install two gas struts a while back which i scored in los angeles in car park, thank you lazy roadside mechanic! They are a shade weak ~22 lbs each, but do help lift the topper, and now i know what i need for length and force.
I need to make it open slightly higher to push the air over the front of the trailer smoother, and some lightweight sides would be nice.
Pulling the trailer around 90 km/h seems to be the best for staying in OD and locked. Revs are low round 1750.
Just for fun i propped the trailer ramp up to round 5 degrees to imagine a trailer boat tail! Thats right! Out.