The Impossible Project: Ecomodding a Box Truck

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Look at it

[interestingstuff]

Originally Posted by JSH

I worked for Alcoa when they first came out with aluminum wheels paired with Michelin super singles. They tested them on our fleet and if I'm remembering correctly replacing 8 dualies with 8 super singles was good for about a 3 - 4% improvement in fuel economy. You save about 400 lbs per axle and the cost is about the same as dually. (The tires are twice as expensive but you only need half as many)

Thanks for chiming in. I just started exploring super singles, so I was going to make a note of them. My truck only has two axles, so I would only be replacing the wheels and tires on one (which I NEED to do anyway due to their age), but I felt it was worth making a note of for others. They're certainly worth looking at. http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/...y8212doe-study

I'm personally concerned about the possibility for single point failure because my use will put me in locations where there is a higher risk of puncture, but that's a personal thing. They're definitely worth looking at.

Depending on your usage you can reduce the frontal area and reduce drag by dropping the box. Likely your box has a 6 to 12 inch spacer to raise the box to the level of a standard loading dock. If you aren't going to load from a dock you can remove the spacer. You will need to cut and tub the floor of the box for tire clearance. UHaul does this to lower the loading height and improve fuel economy

Yeah, I can't do this myself. As shown in my original picture, one of my uses is to be able to access loading docks. It was the first thing I did. If there wasn't a way to change the height of a large truck mechanically, then there should be. Although I suspect such a system to do so would only increase the weight.

[slowmover]

Nosecone and side skirts. Then Trailer Tail.

See Fed Ex Custom Critical Expediter trucks.

That’s a huge box.

I’ll assume you have a commercial driver license. And might know below already:

I get the idea this isn’t going to cover enough miles to matter. Mechanical and electrical issues mean more. As in, steering slop. Correct that problem. Kingpins, etc. Get an excellent grease gun and Service Manual. Hit all points needing lube yourself. Weekly. Enough, and no more.

Change shock absorbers first thing to HD gas charged. It’ll track better. Gabriel. Antiroll bar and track bar bushings should be R&R’d.

Same for brakes. That’s the big problem. Mech is easy. Its the air leaks that arexworth chasing. A big selling point. You NEED to pass LEO-administered roadside brake test like it was brand-new.

And thrust-angle alignment. Should be able to hold lane by itself for more than five seconds at highway speed.

Takes 1.5-2.0 hours to fully warm up. That’s at steady state on highway. Won’t happen around town much (tires). Big trucks aren’t one size fits all. You may have wrong TYPE of tires on truck. Wide base singles bad idea. Find tire dealer and stick with him. It’s a lot of knowledge wasted otherwise.

Aluminum wheels only good for looks. (I’d do it; and I’d do a paint or wrap job on truck).

Centramatic Balancers for Steer Axle. I’d do rear also.

If you do 4-mpg around town consider it good. Same for 6 on highway.

Your savings was in purchase price. Now, it’s in extending useful life.

What motor? 3208 Cat?

FE isn’t a real concern past engine or trans mechanical condition ( need blowby checked and injector contribution test). Change out fuel filters and run Howes Meaner Power Cleaner in a double dose till tanks well below one-half. Get out on highway and cruise up to Allentown to one of the truckstops. 55-mph is fine. Repeat your pretrip while there. Return to usual truckstop and re-fill to auto shutoff. That’ll be your baseline best mpg.

Records matter. Not tank by tank. The game is percentage change.

Keep fuel tanks filled. Last stop of day is that job.

Fix the drivers seat. Or replace. No excuses. Fix mirrors so that you aren’t ever moving body or shoulders to see something while in forward motion. Get a helper. “Perfect” is almost good enough. You need to add upper convex to check overhead clearances.

Rain-X after you clean glass exterior with Windex and XXXX-steel wool.

ALL exterior lamps MUST be changed to LED fixtures. Grote catalog. There are some chrome shop LED headlamps that will be good enough.

LED reverse lights on DOT bumper.

Bring conspicuity tape to brand new, and to current state standard.

Don’t ever turn the key you don’t already have a map in hand of the day’s route. Clearances and road restrictions around that city aren’t any fun. Shortest route isn’t winner.

Get tollroad pass. Average mpg is dependent on average mph. No stops and no idling. No lane changes. Zero idling. Ever.

And be sure you have proper commercial liability insurance unless you can PROVE truck contents are your personal possessions.

That truck is a rolling red flag to DOT. Cut him off at the pass.

(I’d paint the frame with rattle cans. Axle, etc, also. Make it look good. Have Blue Beacon or other wash truck top, bottom and engine bay first).

Again, your fuel costs are pretty much irrelevant. The truck “economy” is its overall condition. What you have looks very nice!!

Make it steer & stop. Make it look great. Light it up. Look like you know what you’re doing. No tee-shirts. Shirt with collar, leather belt and preferably boots.

For good reason, everyone hates NJ truck drivers. I’d sure change that.

Fire extinguisher new, tire thumper and Armor All interior. Needs to look great when LEO opens Driver door to talk to you).

Papers on clipboard, preferably in drivers door pocket. No warrant is needed for commercial service and you are NOT innocent till found guilty.

You’re driving the classic terrorists vehicle of choice: an old box truck. Get rid of “old”. Look like a man, not a friggin kid. Have all in order. Keep it that way. Be ready to sell at a moments notice (even if that means washing it every time you use it).

The world is always looking at and recording your whereabouts.

.

[slowmover]

I’d also add a CB.

Pair of Wilson 2000

Co-phase Wilson coax

10-gauge pos/neg to Batt with 30-A fuse on both

Quick power disconnect near radio

Anytone 6666 off eBay.

Mount for location.

RK56 microphone

Gearkeeper mike hanger

Cobra S500 speaker

Get a shop to help you, or, better, contact “Rabbi” off the CB forum on Truckers Report. Go with what he recommends (I don’t like Cobra 29, want better receive; if you have a bigger budget, use his friend in NM for everything) especially if he’ll meet with you up in his area. He’s just another driver, but he’s autistic about radios. Great, IOW.

It’d be worth a full day to get some help. Likely not you or anyone you know has ever had a GREAT CB transceiver and performance. It’s an eye opener, and you’ll kick yourself for not doing it before.

Many are the times I’ve changed my Routing in that area due to reports. My CB saves or makes money for me. I stay ahead of the other drivers.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by interestingstuff

I'm personally concerned about the possibility for single point failure because my use will put me in locations where there is a higher risk of puncture, but that's a personal thing. They're definitely worth looking at.

Semis have the same concern. Even for them one puncture and you are on the side of the road waiting for a service truck to change a tire and that isn't cheap. Do this a couple of times and the fuel savings are gone. Luckily the largest cause of tire failure is underinflation and that can be helped with daily inspections.

How many miles per year do you expect to drive the truck? Around town or highway? Without serious miles most mods aren't going to pay back.

Slowmover has some excellent advice above. The very first thing you need to do is insure basic mechanical reliability. Towing a big truck costs thousands and roadside mechanics are also big bucks. Don't wait for something to break!

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Even though supersingle rear tyres are an improvement, I also have concerns for single point failure.

[interestingstuff]

Originally Posted by slowmover

I’ll assume you have a commercial driver license. And might know below already:

I get the idea this isn’t going to cover enough miles to matter. Get an excellent grease gun and Service Manual. Hit all points needing lube yourself. Weekly. Enough, and no more.

Aluminum wheels only good for looks. (I’d do it; and I’d do a paint or wrap job on truck).

What motor? 3208 Cat?

FE isn’t a real concern past engine or trans mechanical condition Change out fuel filters and run Howes Meaner Power Cleaner in a double dose till tanks well below one-half.

Fix the drivers seat. Or replace. No excuses.

Thanks for all the input, slowmover! Looks very helpful and hopefully it will help others too!

To answer some questions:

No, I don't have a CDL, the truck GVWR is 26,000, so I technically don't need one. Although I'm going to grab the PA CDL book which a friend of mine who does swears by (and I have the NJ one). I might eventually get one, although it's not an immediate need.

The engine is a 429 7.0L Gas (fuel injected).

I'm not personally planning on driving it TOO much, so hopefully some of these things will not be too big of an issue in comparison to full time hauling, although I will definitely look into improvements and make updates as I can.

I get the impression that the fuel filter was changed recently. Both it and the air filter looks brand new. We're changing other filters and fluids.

I've gotten two service manuals, and the owners guide. I'm going to get the spec book, and another manual soon.

I'm not sure what you mean by fix the drivers seat. Honestly the whole interior is pretty dated. While it's a 93, the whole thing looks to me like it was styled in the 70s. It has those tiny triangle windows in the corner and a bench seat.

[freebeard]

I'm not personally planning on driving it TOO much,...
....
I'm not sure what you mean by fix the drivers seat.

If you did you would.


https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...jpg&f=1

[JSH]

Originally Posted by interestingstuff

I'm not sure what you mean by fix the drivers seat. Honestly the whole interior is pretty dated. While it's a 93, the whole thing looks to me like it was styled in the 70s. It has those tiny triangle windows in the corner and a bench seat.

He means driving any distance on a rigid bench seat is hard on the body. Even driving extended distances in a suspended seat in a suspended cab is hard on the body. (My wife did her thesis on vibrations in the spines of commercial drivers.)

My dad and I drove 2600 miles cross country in a rented 26 foot Penske truck with a rigid bench seat. 12 hour days for 5 days. It takes a physical toll on the body.

[interestingstuff]

Originally Posted by JSH

Even driving extended distances in a suspended seat in a suspended cab is hard on the body. (My wife did her thesis on vibrations in the spines of commercial drivers.)

That's fascinating, is her work available anywhere publicly?

My dad and I drove 2600 miles cross country in a rented 26 foot Penske truck with a rigid bench seat. 12 hour days for 5 days. It takes a physical toll on the body.

Yeah, I grew up in a family with old RV motorhomes. I certainly know long trips, but at this time, I'm thinking my longest drives in the forseeable future might be 3-4 hours each way at most. I'm also torn between preserving the vintage aesthetics and the benefit of being able to take a nap on the bench seat vs. any upgrades which might affect this.