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Old 03-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Shortie771 View Post
Is this switch for the injectors? Does it also kill your electronics? I don't want to have my stereo cut out every time I kill it.
This car is carbureted I don't have injectors. The kill switch connects to a relay that momentarily interrupts the power lead going to my coil, thereby cutting off the spark plugs.

The start side of the switch connects to a relay that temporarily connects the starter solenoid to +12V. The key switch would normally do this, but when it does, it also cuts power to my accessories (stereo), so I prefer this method of starting the car when I am doing EOC and can't bump.

The +12V source for the relays is only active when the key is on, so the switch is inactive when the key is not in the car.

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Last edited by mozul; 03-28-2013 at 03:54 PM.. Reason: clarification
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mozul View Post
This car is carbureted I don't have injectors. The kill switch connects to a relay that momentarily interrupts the power lead going to my coil, thereby cutting off the spark plugs.

The start side of the switch connects to a relay that temporarily connects the starter solenoid to the battery. The key switch would normally do this, but when it does, it also cuts power to my accessories (stereo), so I prefer this method of starting the car when I am doing EOC and can't bump.
Thank you for the explanation. I can't believe it didn't even cross my mind to think if your car was fuel injected or carbureted.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:09 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mozul View Post
This car is carbureted I don't have injectors. The kill switch connects to a relay that momentarily interrupts the power lead going to my coil, thereby cutting off the spark plugs.

The start side of the switch connects to a relay that temporarily connects the starter solenoid to +12V. The key switch would normally do this, but when it does, it also cuts power to my accessories (stereo), so I prefer this method of starting the car when I am doing EOC and can't bump.

The +12V source for the relays is only active when the key is on, so the switch is inactive when the key is not in the car.

Good, and you've sparked another approach. In a carbureted car, why not use it to energize the fuel shutoff solenoid (that keeps the engine fro dieseling after shutdown). That would also allow you to save fuel during engine braking (and make engine braking slightly more powerful). With the sparks still coming, any residual fuel wouldn't cause a backfire as welll. My main question would be whether the fuel shutoff solenoid can hold back pump pressure.... (I'll use it in an aircooled VW) Also, cutting off the fuel rather than spark should prevent washdown of the cylinder walls and premature wear.
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:01 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jray3 View Post
In a carbureted car, why not use it to energize the fuel shutoff solenoid (that keeps the engine fro dieseling after shutdown).
My car does not have a fuel shuttoff solenoid. However, it does have an electric fuel pump. I could cut the power to the fuel pump, but there is no point in that. The fuel pump provides fuel to the carb at 3psi. It is automatically controlled by the float valve in the carb. When there is room in the carb for more fuel, the float lowers and opens the valve. The fuel then enters the carb and fills up the float tank. When the float tank is full, the valve is closed, but the fuel pump continues to pump though it is a sloppy pump, the fuel doesn't move in the line.

I don't use the engine for braking. I want to use as little brakes as possible to maximize my coasting. If I used the engine for braking, it would simply restart since it is the same as bump starting.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:20 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Here's mine:

Not fancy, but it works.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:50 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Find an automatic shifter for your generation civic and take the gear shifter out. Take the pushbutton out of it and install a momentary switch, (normally closed I believe). Then hook that up to the rest of your engine engine kill setup. I like the momentary switch better than another switch, because you don't have to remember to flip it back.

If I can find mine, i'll post some pics. I sold the car a while back with my vx swapped 96 hatch. Worked great.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:38 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I have a double momentary rocker with two positions. One for killing the engine second for starting it up. All under the thumb.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:20 AM   #68 (permalink)
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JRMichler, Thanks for sharing this process with the rest of us...
Always, I "bump" my engine in a HIGHER gear than what I would normally be driving at. Doing it this way keeps the vehicle moving at a faster rhythm and less slow down because of the engine compression factor to initially get it going again.

Being smooth gets it to the passengers(unless driver tells them), won't notice!

PS. It is NOT necessary to release the clutch completely when "bumping" engine to re-start, or do the double clutch thing.

Thanks for your post.
I'm adding to what you wrote, should help others understand the process better...

Last edited by bikeprof; 04-05-2013 at 01:24 PM.. Reason: adding stuff
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:49 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mozul View Post
My car does not have a fuel shuttoff solenoid. However, it does have an electric fuel pump. I could cut the power to the fuel pump, but there is no point in that. The fuel pump provides fuel to the carb at 3psi. It is automatically controlled by the float valve in the carb. When there is room in the carb for more fuel, the float lowers and opens the valve. The fuel then enters the carb and fills up the float tank. When the float tank is full, the valve is closed, but the fuel pump continues to pump though it is a sloppy pump, the fuel doesn't move in the line.

I don't use the engine for braking. I want to use as little brakes as possible to maximize my coasting. If I used the engine for braking, it would simply restart since it is the same as bump starting.
I've read some polish article few years ago about carburetors and changing main nozzle to the one with cut off valve for engine breaking purposes. Because if you try to do engine breaking with carburated engine the vacuum is building rapidly and it can suck the fuel out of carburetor very quickly. Anyway I got this idea of simple electronic unit that would allow DFCO and fuel cut off kill of the engine in a carburated car with such cut off nozzle.
Don't know if there are such nozzles with electrovalves for every carb though.
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Gerhard Plattner: "The best attitude is to consider fuel saving a kind of sport. Everybody who has enough money for a strong car, can drive fast and hit the pedal. But saving fuel requires concentration, self-control and cleverness. It's a challenge with the nice effect of saving you money that you can use for other more important things."
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:29 AM   #70 (permalink)
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gawd damn, no offense but some of ya all got some janky 1/2 ass installed/mounted kill switches! hahaha lolz but hey they work, so hard to knock 'em! i really like the shifter mounted switches, but i dont personally prefere one that is integrated into the shifter knob itself - having one that mounts to the shifter rod, just below the knob - sounds like an awesome idea. I have one mounted on the right side of the Ebrake. its a HUGE red push button momentary switch

switch is similar to this, but w/o the cover:

AC 660V 10A 22mm Red Mushroom Momentary Push Button Switch No NC w Cover | eBay


how it is mounted:




i just kind of let my arm drop off the shifter, and boom it rests nicely on the switch, which stops power to the fuel pump. hold the button until engine dies. release, button and car is ready to start again via key or bump start

jury is still out as to where i want to mount the switch in my newly acquired Insight....

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Last edited by SpeedyCorky; 04-05-2013 at 08:57 AM..
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