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Old 02-01-2010, 10:55 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Don't know about diesels, but on gasoline engines the camshaft sensor (Hall sensor) is usually on the side of the distributor. On mine it's a yellow&green wire. I tapped into this wire at the firewall and brought 2 wires into the cockpit and attached them to a momentary open button. This works great because the ECU thinks the engine is stopped and stops both the injectors and the spark plugs.

BUT *CAREFUL*! Interrupting this Hall sensor may cause your ECU to "throw a code", such as "No signal from Hall sensor" (what else?). In my car this constant writing of error codes caused the ECU to sometimes forget the ignition key authorization code, thus activating the electronic anti-theft immobilizer and the engine refused to start. At least that's my theory of what happened. Then it's time to tow to the authorized dealer.
Here's my thread of my experiences: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ers-11153.html

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Old 02-01-2010, 12:48 PM   #132 (permalink)
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newbe help

hello everyone. im new here and i found this thread. ive been trying to soak it in but im no electrition. i have a 1991 metro with a pcv instead of an egr valve (if that makes a difference), and i want to install a kill switch. my question is; would the cam pos sensor be the way to go for me? in dont want any ecm issues or anything. also if anyone knows how to do the timing for this model please email me (spyder2120@yahoo.com). i have a manuel but it says to refer to the data under the hood. my sticker is mia. im not sure what tubes to block, unhook or anything else. the manual i have seems to indicate its different with every model. thank you.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:54 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Warning!

Attention!
If anyone can help spyder2120, please send him a PM, or post here so that it can help others.

Please don't give your e-mail to new users.
Spyder: If you are legit, then sorry for this, but new users who ask for e-mails turn on a warning light.
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[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:39 PM   #134 (permalink)
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sorry about the email thing. im use to the motorcycle sites.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:43 PM   #135 (permalink)
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It's not a punishable offense, that I'm aware of, but you're not likely to get an email from anyone here.

More likely, we'll just answer your questions in the public forum. If you need personal, specific help, someone may be willing to have a PM session with you, but don't count on it.

Most subjects are best discussed in the open forums, so that anyone with input can reply. It's also more helpful to lurkers (like you used to be) if the information is displayed and easy for them to find.

Would you have signed up if the information you were looking for wasn't here?
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:09 PM   #136 (permalink)
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just use to motorcycle sites. given that the timing question was off topic, and i didnt know you guys had pm, i put the yahoo address down so as not to be a distraction or impolite by appearing to try to change the subject. it was to give respect to the one who started the thread...not to step on anyones toes.
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:41 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Well, you're more than welcome to start a new topic if you'd like, but it's on-topic for this thread, so it's fine.

When you ask for timing help, are you referring to valve timing, or ignition timing, or both?

There are a few different ways to make a kill switch for your Metro, just like almost any other vehicle, but I'm not sure of your specifics. Someone else can chime in there.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:28 PM   #138 (permalink)
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I have a 97 Geo Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed. I used the method in post #1 to use a relay to kill the power to the fuel injectors, and using my switch the engine does stop, but the electrical system resets as if I had used the key in the ignition to turn off the vehicle. This interferes with my scangauge. Is there another method for a kill switch that won't reboot the electronics in the 95+ metros?
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:54 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Geo Metro forum reply ... +

yes
connect the relay near the injector harness connector

in the line closest to the bumper which is positive supply to the injector -
connect your pin 87a to the injector and pin 30 to the side of the line that connects back to the fuse block

the rest of your circuit will function as is

also
if you switch off the injector , a few seconds before switching off the key
the engine will stop due to lack of fuel AND there will be NO FUEL drops left on the intake manifold walls ....

which will save that much fuel every time you switch off the engine
a teeny weeny bit to be sure but

more important ly that fuel will not evaporate into the atmosphere (HC emissions) AND it will not over time form deposits in the intake or drip down past the piston rings into the engine oil
========================================
stand with knees touching front bumper
remove the air filter assembly
the Injector harness connector is a bit to the left of center of the Valve cover
the wire toward the bumper is Injector supply 12 volts Positive
the wire toward the windshield is injector signal , Black white on my 1996 G10
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:23 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epurvee View Post
I have a 97 Geo Metro 3 cylinder 5 speed. I used the method in post #1 to use a relay to kill the power to the fuel injectors, and using my switch the engine does stop, but the electrical system resets as if I had used the key in the ignition to turn off the vehicle. This interferes with my scangauge. Is there another method for a kill switch that won't reboot the electronics in the 95+ metros?
Try setting the scan gage to hybrid. That keeps it powered up during auto stops.

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