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Old 08-02-2012, 08:06 AM   #181 (permalink)
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I made the EOC switch few days ago. It was easy, i cutted the wire going to the hall-sensor(equivalent to cam sensor).

What i did was maybe too complicated... 5V reg with 5V relay, with normal open switch I did'nt have normal close switch anywhere at the moment and i was eager to test this


But now i have almost mastered the EOC.
When i go in the highway, P&G at between 80-100km/h, i EOC, and then release the clutch at top gear when it's at 80km/h. It bumbs a little. But when it bumbs when it starts, it decreases the speed significantly, resulting in very little benefit.

Any hints of how to EOC properly?

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Old 08-02-2012, 02:22 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quezacotl View Post
But now i have almost mastered the EOC.
When i go in the highway, P&G at between 80-100km/h, i EOC, and then release the clutch at top gear when it's at 80km/h. It bumbs a little. But when it bumbs when it starts, it decreases the speed significantly, resulting in very little benefit.

Any hints of how to EOC properly?
Let the clutch out rapidly then press it right back in as quickly as possible, DO NOT JUST SLOP IT IN GEAR AND LEAVE THE CLUTCH OUT.

Anyway I release the clutch out then back in as QUICKLY as possible, my car directly after restart is to the floor (on its own, I don't touch the gas), I normally restart in 5th, even if I am only driving 20mph, this results in a violent lurch if I leave the clutch out after restart because the motor wants to race up then back down, in gear it can't do that and is really unhappy.

On my cobalt I can't even measure how many MPH I loose hitting the clutch in and out, its nearly undetectable.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:05 AM   #183 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703 View Post
Let the clutch out rapidly then press it right back in as quickly as possible, DO NOT JUST SLOP IT IN GEAR AND LEAVE THE CLUTCH OUT.

Anyway I release the clutch out then back in as QUICKLY as possible, my car directly after restart is to the floor (on its own, I don't touch the gas), I normally restart in 5th, even if I am only driving 20mph, this results in a violent lurch if I leave the clutch out after restart because the motor wants to race up then back down, in gear it can't do that and is really unhappy.

On my cobalt I can't even measure how many MPH I loose hitting the clutch in and out, its nearly undetectable.
Oh, thanks, gotta try that EDIT: Works!
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Last edited by Quezacotl; 08-06-2012 at 05:39 AM..
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:14 PM   #184 (permalink)
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I've gone through the whole thread and I've seen people ask about this but nobody has answered or I missed it but what is a good way to do this on a carb'ed car? I have an '89 pontiac and it is not fuel injected. any help?
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:42 PM   #185 (permalink)
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I've gone through the whole thread and I've seen people ask about this but nobody has answered or I missed it but what is a good way to do this on a carb'ed car? I have an '89 pontiac and it is not fuel injected. any help?

Have your switch cut off the main relay which will kill the spark. Make sure the car is out of gear to keep the engine from spinning any more than it's own momentum causes.

WARNING:
Remember that your carb will still be providing fuel to the engine even though no spark will be present to detonate it. This will push a small amount of unburned fuel into the exhaust system. Restarting the engine may cause a small backfire. The more the engine spins after the spark is cut, the larger the backfire.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:25 AM   #186 (permalink)
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Don't most carbs have a fuel shutoff solenoid that physically impedes fuel delivery to the float bowl when its power is interrupted? Removing power from such a solenoid without killing spark would allow the engine to run on for no more than a second or so until the fuel level in the bowl(s) drops enough that it can no longer fire, and this will minimize or eliminate the quantity of unburned fuel sent into the exhaust.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:12 PM   #187 (permalink)
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I can't vouch for all or even most, but I've never seen a shut-off solenoid in a carb. I've worked on hundreds if not thousands of cars, trucks, and non-road use equipment both professionally( 25+ years) and personally( a bit longer). Adding one would help with engine braking, but carb bowls do hold enough fuel to build up in the exhaust and ignite when ignition is returned. And yes I have experience this first hand.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:22 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Adding one would help with engine braking, but carb bowls do hold enough fuel to build up in the exhaust and ignite when ignition is returned. And yes I have experience this first hand.
I have a subaru 360 that has a electronic carb shut off just prior to the bowl, the way you use this as an effective kill switch is to shut off the solenoid, wait then kill the motor.

My Subaru 360 will run about a 1/4 mile on the fuel in the bowl at speed however so it doesn't work perfectly but if you time it you can kill the motor without hosing down the engine with as much unburnt gas. You don't want to completely kill the engine this way alone or its awefull hard to restart.

You need to turn the solenoid right back on after the motor dies or you will wait some time to have enough fuel to run after doing this.

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Old 12-06-2012, 08:52 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VXmpgRacer View Post
I thought I would share my gear shifter mounted kill/start switch. The switch is for a wench and I set it up to kill the engine.
Push down to kill the engine
Push up to start the engine
*snip pics*
Whoa, wait a dog gone minute! They make switches for wEnches? Where do I get n^x of those???
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:57 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Made a Kill switch today and works great except my Ultraguage errors on the MPG's. Anyone know if its still calculating the MPGs when I am coasting with the motor off and the Guage reads ERR?

Edit: it does read while displaying ERR. Thanks

I cut and extended the white wire coming out of the distributor and ran it to a normally closed switch. I used two hose clamps to clamp a bracket with a bend in it to the shifter. I bent it so it would closely match the angle of the rubber cover. Pulled the cover back over the switch and cut a 1/4 inch hole so the button would poke out. Soldered and Heat wrapped the connections.



Last edited by gofalls; 08-18-2013 at 09:14 PM.. Reason: added photo
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