The long road to Bonneville, goals are 40mpg useable pickup in the 150 club

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Cool beans.

slowmover will approve.

Sure do. Pickups get past any semblance of road stability at 65-mph.

A Panhard Rod for the rear axle is the usual step. (Contact SUPER STEER). An anti-roll bar also (and the front bar moved up one step in size).

Remote reservoir shocks (FOX, KING or BILSTEIN). The step up from entry level non-remote.

MOPAR used to have a kit (1970s) that fitted a shock absorber from a plate under the axle mount along the upper forward part of the leaf spring to the front eye bushing. Had to do with axle tramp, but it’d help here, too.

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[gumby79]

Originally Posted by slowmover

Sure do. Pickups get past any semblance of road stability at 65-mph.

A Panhard Rod for the rear axle is the usual step. (Contact SUPER STEER). An anti-roll bar also (and the front bar moved up one step in size).

Remote reservoir shocks (FOX, KING or BILSTEIN). The step up from entry level non-remote.

MOPAR used to have a kit (1970s) that fitted a shock absorber from a plate under the axle mount along the upper forward part of the leaf spring to the front eye bushing. Had to do with axle tramp, but it’d help here, too.

.

The lack of a stock front sway bad has also been addressed. I installed a SWAY - 134 g-max-1" front-sway-bar for 89-93 3/4 and 1ton diesel
Custom shocks and custom rear panhard are on the wish list, will be going more tord a Watts link(link to wiki) insted of a panhard bar. And for salt flat speed runs will take Aeroheads advice and run a solid rod /jack screws in place of shock absorbers. The watts link has a more vertical motion, less head bobble as the suspension cycles . Both watts and panhard will work well with the planned 4 link that is in the design phase. This wi elevate the need for traction bars/snubbers.

[freebeard]

And for salt flat speed runs will take Aeroheads advice and run a solid rod /jack screws in place of shock absorbers.

What's the reasoning here?

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by freebeard

What's the reasoning here?

This is a recommendation of the Southern California Timing Association who does all the safety/tech inspections at Bonneville.
Some bodies are capable of lifting on their suspensions,altering their angle of attack,and coefficient of lift at speed.
Rigid members lock in the static body inclination and prevent any funny business until higher speeds,where regardless of whatever you do,the car in aerodynamically unstable.
I didn't have to address this,as I never went over 105 mph.At 130-mph the truck generated only 22-pounds of rear lift,on a 2150-pound axle load.30-pounds of front downforce.It's gonna be a different case for Gumby79.
One good bit of info from DARKO is,that Spirit is neutral in lift,and it's static weight distribution is almost a perfect 50-50 on the axles.Gumby 79 will have the potential for this in the Diesel 'Coupe" class,as a truck streamliner.

[gumby79]

Been bussy. I now have a Borg Warner s366/80 .80ar 66mm compressor and 80mm/73mm turbine w/ a .80AR/~16cm from BD deasel and 4"exhaust mounted outbord of the frame(easuer belly pan) on the truck . As shiped the turbo 5 sizes biger than the turbo I was told the motor couldent spool (was told by a rep at BD that a 62 was too big) hit 10psi, 2psi less than the stock H1C/21cm 58mm compressor. So a lateral move same spool rate and air flow as stock still 103mph top end.

Then I got a 2.5" t3 open spacer from AZ CNC Manufactruing
welded a pice of plate in blocking the front passage of the turbine, as a test pice for the diverter valve I want to try. Now it spools like the H1C /16cm with 3psi more 103 top speed. Drive pressure was a concern I have measured this and I am peeking at a 2:1 ratio(40psi exhaust 20psi intake) with in limits but >1:1 is ideal . More intake pressure than exhaust pressure means the intake stroke is applying power to the crank I'll be at a very small amount but every ounce counts. This will come into play after 130mph when I start adding fuel.
Now to try the hx 35/12 on the test pice and get the s366 setup to run the diverter valve (ths valve is not application spicific so some fab work is/may be needed . (Had to do some trimming to get the fitup right on the hx35..
tell next time

[gumby79]

Some pictures
2.5" spacer with front passage blocked to send all air through 1 of 2 passages giving the air more velosity/ energy to act apon the turbine.


2.5 diverter test piece installed on the S366/80 .80 AR


The diverter valve after getting proof of concept with the test piece


Diverter valve mocked up with hx35 on a DAP t3 manifold that I traded for the 3rd gen manifold that came in the turbo kit I got


A compairison of the 3 turbos


compairing the backs

----
I also had the 300k mi+ injectors tested and pop presher adjusted . All but #5 were down to 209 bar(3031psi) pop pressure #5 was 220bar(3190psi) now 4 are 258 and 2 at 256 (3741and 3712psi respectively) I put the 2 lower in cylinders and 4 because theas are the leanest cylinders and the minimal extra fuel/timing they will get form lower pop pressure will help to balance the crank loading. This has retarded the timing ~ 5°(1°/ 10bar pop pressure change) so to day I'll adjust the timing. The advice on line is to bump the timing 1/8"(3-5° )

[aerohead]

Look out Gale Banks!

[gumby79]

Well it appears that the injection pump may be OK and there was just alot of contributing simultaneous failures giving the impression it wasn't

Well the HX35W12 (turbo on the right on the table and mocked up on the manifold that will go on with 6 fast responce EGT probes seeaccurate temperature measurement) is back on with the diverter valve set to "factory " web page for BD Diesel said 15psi crack from single (6cm) to full divided (12cm) turbine housing by 18psi. Hitting 25psi highest boost Ive hit . Faster to 25psi as a single(valve installed but not hooked up) but hits 25 eather way. Supper snappy. Hits 15psi in a hurry. 101mph top speed. It turns out I was right in my understanding of how the diverter valve would effect the air delivery , twins in a single. Starts spooling @325°f 1psi by 350°f 300° idle in Neutral 425°f and 1psi by 450°f 400° is idle stoped in gear. 35mph in 4th 1200rpm 500° @5psi. We will see how long it takes to jam with suit.The the only person I've talked to you that has ever had any experience other than the salesman at BD used his on a drag race diesel and suit that's not a concern for him except for jamming this valve, after describing how well the EGT probe is staying clean due to low salt levels in my exhaust stream he thinks it may do very well. We will see.

The big turbo (left turbo on the table above) was laggy on bottom end but about the same as the stock (center) mid range sucked top was slow gitting there but mustered the same top speed, 103-99mph(20-15 psi) 20psi with the blocked port (.40. AR~8cm) about the same as the H1C/16 . Full open(.80AR~16cm) 10psi and same proformance as the stock with the 21cm cruse had to be 85mph/2000rpm to maintain 3psi. It droped to 15psi as the air leak got worce in concert with getting the 4" out side the frame exhaust custom built, exhaust design will lend it self very well to belly pan and side skirt modds up cumming.The diverter valve will need a diffrent custom built bracket(no longer available) to relocate the actuator to clear the S366

Also got the injectors tuned up and reset to 258Bar pop pressure. 1234 6 were at 208-209Bar and ??? #5 was at 220Bar??? They came back with a clean bill o health no chunkys found inside on disassembly indicating the injection pump is sound with 350kmi +
1and 2 look ok considering this is the first time out in 350k+ #1 really shows the swirl air pattern pattern of the flame front giving ideas of the optimal exhaust outpet shape.. #3 margnal 4-6 not so hot more what I expected to see from all of them , I was starting to see some haze in the exhaust.
#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

Did a compression test wile I had the injectors out.
350psi across the bord. That was a chore the store had 2 sets 1 for 150 the other for 30usd the adaptor was in both boxes but only the higher priced one said it worked with Cummins. So I bought the cheeper set well wrong thread pitch in both kits. The adaptor that had the correct thread was too big around were it goes into the injector bore, had to take .015" off the od in a drill press with a file, ugh.

Fixed an air leak in the suction fuel line from the metal line going back to the tank to the lift pump. It was leaking just enough air to mess up the dynamic timing advance that operates via injection pump case pressure controled by a rotory positive displacement vane pump and a fixed size orifice as rpms increase case pressure is suposed to go up in the case pushing the advance piston moving it from 12.5° to 2x° (kindof like the mechanical advance in a distributor) Combined with the injectors compensating for this a little bit by advancing the timing 1° / 10 bar of lost pop pressure it has been quite a trivial time . Im glad the old gril finaly came around, wanting to not change or alter the injection pump till fueling trims till after I hit my phase 1 goal of 130mph. Theas problems have forced me to educate my self on the inner workings of this elegant mechanical injection unit, I am better for it...
I have been in contact with the owner of SCS Gearbox 419-483-7278 739 W. Main St.Bellevue OH, 44811. He said scsgearbox 4x4-transfer-cases 10" drop
would suit my purposes quite well especially with the Quick Change gearing

[aerohead]

Gumby............ 'Wow' is what comes to mind!
I'm really impressed. Now you'll have 'evidence' to go along with your 'boost' theory.Very cool!

[Frank]

Originally Posted by gumby79

And for salt flat speed runs will take Aeroheads advice and run a solid rod /jack screws in place of shock absorbers.

?? The two times I was at B-Ville (BMST, not Speed Week or one of the other events) the salt was so bumpy that even the bikes with suspension were having problems keeping on course. One of my friends was bounced off course and did not get a speed for the flying km as he was outside the 2nd set of lights. I'd spend some more time investigating this recommendation if I were you.

Have you looked at landracing.com for opinions?