03-10-2011, 09:59 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Metro HotRodder
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bellingham Washington
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Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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Today
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Other popular topics in this forum...
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03-10-2011, 02:09 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Location: Belgium
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Do you work from design sketches, or do you go where the project takes you regarding design ?
The width difference is going to require some serious fairing-in to match the rear body.
Keep it going
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Strayed to the Dark Diesel Side
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03-10-2011, 06:41 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Metro HotRodder
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bellingham Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
Do you work from design sketches, or do you go where the project takes you regarding design ?
The width difference is going to require some serious fairing-in to match the rear body.
Keep it going
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Ive been modifying unibody cars for over 25 years , I know what I want in the end and just go at it, , I removed 17" down the center on the white car, then took just enough off to get the 2 together keeping stock length , the nose will end up a 1 peice Fiberglass bulb, as I work at a Fiberglass plant that makes Bathtubs
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03-13-2011, 12:11 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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Metro HotRodder
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The Following User Says Thank You to sjr For This Useful Post:
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03-13-2011, 03:20 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Omaha Nebraska area
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In my opinion I would,
Make fiberglass pieces attached to the fenders and doors that start at the wider width and gradually curve back behind the car giving it that tear drop shape below the windows if you were to look at it from above.
I like this, nice work.
Have you considered chopping the top and making a heavy tear drop shape in the back? maybe extending the front about 3-5 ft and giving it an elipse shape like the dolphin?
I'd hate to be a first responder on the scene if you get hit by a semi.
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03-13-2011, 04:41 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianAbington
Have you considered chopping the top and making a heavy tear drop shape in the back?
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I think that would mess up the rear passenger space.
Quote:
I'd hate to be a first responder on the scene if you get hit by a semi.
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That goes for any Swift / Metro, and for all small cars of the period.
If you're hit by a semi, you need a good dose of luck anyway, in any car.
The smaller shape could even be stiffer than the original, as I expect sjr will properly reinforce the welds.
If you want a small yet safe car, better buy one that's been designed in fairly recent years - like new built after say 2005 or thereabout.
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Strayed to the Dark Diesel Side
Last edited by euromodder; 03-13-2011 at 04:46 PM..
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03-14-2011, 02:32 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjr
today
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Wow!
I'll second the comment about the body/fiberglass work aft of the front wheels: you'll have a lot of drag there unless you taper it in to blend smoothly with the cabin.
Subscribed & watching for updates!
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03-14-2011, 04:17 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Metro HotRodder
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bellingham Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Wow!
I'll second the comment about the body/fiberglass work aft of the front wheels: you'll have a lot of drag there unless you taper it in to blend smoothly with the cabin.
Subscribed & watching for updates!
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I totally agree, my time to devote to this project is scarce so this thing is being done in stages:
1) get it together in one peice and driveable using stock sheet metal, paint it one color start driving it daily to work,
2) make a 1 peice fiberglass front nose bulb, and leave the rear section alone
3) remove rear doors and modify rear
(in there somewhere install a XFI cam , tune up the engine, run thin synth oil , get a scan guage or sinilar to monitor MPG, hot ig coil, look into warm air intake, remove alternator belt,in the summer I fugure I can run to work and back without a Battery charger, at home I park where I can start the this just by coasting down my hill, still trying to figure out how to run the water pump more efficiently, maybe trim the inpellers? or add a lighter larger diameter pulley?? ..etc. etc..)
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03-14-2011, 04:29 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Metro HotRodder
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bellingham Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianAbington
In my opinion I would,
Make fiberglass pieces attached to the fenders and doors that start at the wider width and gradually curve back behind the car giving it that tear drop shape below the windows if you were to look at it from above.
I like this, nice work.
Have you considered chopping the top and making a heavy tear drop shape in the back? maybe extending the front about 3-5 ft and giving it an elipse shape like the dolphin?
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chop the top: Im a tall guy (6'-1")and want to be comfortable, also the windows and doorframe mods are a big deal I dont want to deal with, I went with the 4 door so I could eventually highly mod the rear, plans are to remove the sheetmetal just after the front door , ditch the rear doors, rear windows and hatch, extend the rear a few feet and make a boat tail in the rear, Ive been eyeballin a fiberglass canoe to maybe use in the rear for the shape, Ive been experimenting with different materials for quick easy mold building, like I said I am limited on the time I can devote so Im looking for quick results for my efforts, end result should be 1 piece front section this will inslude grill,bumper,fenders with skirts,and hood , stock front doors and frames, custom I peice rear tail with small hatch for when you need to carrey a 10" 2x4 or PVC pipe home, all in fiberglass, underbelly and all 4 wheels skirted Scott
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03-14-2011, 06:44 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Charlotte NC / York SC
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Have you considered going foam/fiberglass composite?
Unless you're looking to duplicate it, it will save having to build the molds.
The foam also adds some impact proteection.
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