Metro-powered sports car project

[Bicycle Bob]

I've made a couple of Coroplast bodies for Velomobiles, as have many others, but we want ultimate light weight, so it is all single skin. However, they can also be extremely rugged with just a bit of Coroplast framework inside a light-guage skin. Building up a basket work of strips would be very rugged, and it is all self-fairing, plus you can use a heat gun for any extra persuasion in the tight spots. There's no accurate spiling needed, so it should go very quickly. Six layers that are 50% gaps are stronger than 4 layers made from the same amount of Coroplast sheet. Use a generous bead or two of genuine, non-paintable silicon at each crossing, and hot glue or screws for clamping. Near your mounting points, build up more layers, and thin out the middle of panels if you want, especially if they have a strong compound curve. Let the glue out-gas for at least a fortnight before sealing further.
Actual hard points for bolting to a frame can be added with layers of fiberglass tape radiating out from the bolt location. WEST epoxy will give an adequate bond directly, if there's no peeling. If it starts to come loose, add Silicon. Glue on washers after you drill the bolt hole.

Probably the trickiest bit is getting an even covering of A+B foam, as it expands while you work. Several small batches are probably a good idea. However, errors are almost always of excess, which can be quickly hacked off with a knife, and minor hollows can be filled with insulation aerosol.

[JackMcCornack]

I've not given up on this project, it just isn't front-burner at present. I'm trying to consolidate shops to get my rent and driving reduced to an affordable level, and my new shop is great but it's steel siding, uninsulated, unheated, and there's snow on the roof this evening and there'll be more of it before May comes along. I'm hopefully going to become a snowbird and hide out in Arizona for the winter.

I'm with you, Bicycle Bob (re putting a Metro engine in a Locost should be pretty straightforward). If one wants to make a Metro-powered Locost, Hotchkissizing it couldn't be easier: the Metro motor bolts to a Suzuki Samurai or Geo Tracker transmission, and from there it's a matter of finding a suitable live axle, and I think an axle from an early '80s Corolla would work splendidly. I think the Metro motor puts out more power than the first generation Lotus Sevens came with, so you'll not only have a classic look, but classic performance as well.

[BobM]

Hello Jack, and thanks for your inputs. The idea of using a Hotchkiss setup for a Geo locost certainly makes sense. But I am already committed to doing a middy by moving the engine and drive train to the rear. And I have already accquired Miata spindles, hubs, and brakes for the front and a complete Miata rear end to use whatever I decide on for the rear. I wanted the front and rear brakes to match. It would be great if the Geo axles would match the Miata hub. Haven't reach that point yet.

A more traditional project, as you and Bicycle Bob are talking about here, could be in the future. My wife asked me today what I am going to do with the new MIG welder after I finish this project? My reply was, I guess I will just have to start a new project. You can imagine how that went over.

Becoming a snowbird in AZ sounds like a good idea. My late wife's sister and her husband (who are from Winnepeg) did that for years and loved it.

Sounds like you need a shop in both locations....wouldn't want you slacking off and enjoying yourself too much. We need you to keep up the good stuff.

[JackMcCornack]

Originally Posted by BobM

The idea of using a Hotchkiss setup for a Geo locost certainly makes sense.

Indeed it does, since it saves all that cumbersome design work, and it's possible to do a decent ecomod body on that chassis, BUT...

Originally Posted by BobM

But I am already committed to doing a middy by moving the engine and drive train to the rear.

And so am I. I think a Metro-powered locost (front-mid engine rear drive) is just too dang much time and money and complexity compared (in theory) to relocating the complete Metro drive train (to rear-mid engine rear drive), provided there'll be enough Metro middies made to justify the design work, or provided the pleasure of making a car from a concept is sufficient motive. I think using Miata spindles and brakes will drive the complexity of the motor end of your car up considerably, but it'll simplify the front end, and may be a wash.

[BobM]

If I ever get through pulling wires and get the engine pulled and cleaned maybe I can start this build.

Jack, earlier in this thread you were doing a mock-up of the rear section using 2 inch square tubing and your Geo motor mounts seem to be made for this. I plan to make the lower portion of my frame of 1 1/2 inch like the Midlana, since I am goling to have a Midlana style cage, and was wondering if this would be sufficient for the rear section also. Could your motor mounts be modified to work with this size tubing?

Another question. You have designed front suspension components for a Miata based car. Could I just buy those components and build my front frame to match. As you can see I am not an engineer, or even a "car person". Andrew Moore and I plan to get together and I hope he can keep me straight on this project.

[JackMcCornack]

Bob, my right (engine side) mounts are specific to 2" tubing but I could sure draw up a 1-1/2" version--go to the address in my sig and click the "Contact us" menu. My left (trans side) mount can fit 1-1/2" no prob. The rear mount is left as an exercise for the student. :-)

And yes, I'll be delighted to be your Miata-based front suspension source...ping me at Kinetic and we can discuss details (without putting our fellow ecomodders to sleep).

[BobM]

Finally completed all projects I had going that were keeping me from the Metro. Last Saturday I put in a few hours on the disassembly and today I had a very productive day. Finally got the gas tank removed, which remove a safety concern and fire hazzard. Also was able to get the front suspension and axles removed. The struts were bolted to the uprights and that should provide me with good mounting locations for the upper rear a-arms and shocks.

[BobM]

Got the engine out of the Metro today, finally feel like I am making some progress. Also got the wiring harness removed. What a mess that is going to be to get sorted. Everything is removed from the body except the rear suspension. Will probably get that removed tomorrow and then it's time for the saws-all.

After everything is cleaned I am going to start a wooden/PVC pipe mock-up of the frame. That will give me an idea of how much tubing I will need for the roll cage. The cage is going to be built by a local chassis shop.

[BobM]

Since I will be required to have a mechanial parking brake to get the car registered I need to change the calipers. I have seen it mentioned that the '89-'94 Suzuki Swift GT rear brake caliper could be used on the '92 Geo Metro front end (which is going to the rear of my car). I ordered these (Raybestos 10051/10052) but the mounting holes don't line-up with the mounting holes on the Geo upright. Caliper holes are 115 mm center to center and the upright holes are 130mm. Does anyone have any experience with this or have other ideas?

[some_other_dave]

How about something like this?
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Mech Spot Calipers

-soD