12-12-2016, 07:04 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Those rules and your riding conditions seem to suggest that you could expand the top portions of the fairing to screen shoulders and more of your head. And I suppose leathers with a larger aero blister behind the helmet would help too. I doubt anything above the front wheel is worth it. Are there no rules about the rear wheen and the tail?
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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12-12-2016, 07:11 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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duct tape on our left was for visualizing the rider coverage if I added fiberglass in the easiest spots. also shows front fender
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12-12-2016, 07:20 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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I am a bit crooked because I felt like the bike was going to fall out of the front stand. But you get the idea for how thin the tail is compared to rider..
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12-12-2016, 07:26 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
Those rules and your riding conditions seem to suggest that you could expand the top portions of the fairing to screen shoulders and more of your head. And I suppose leathers with a larger aero blister behind the helmet would help too. I doubt anything above the front wheel is worth it. Are there no rules about the rear wheen and the tail?
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The rules for that section are that the tail and fender will extend at least to the rear axle, so they were only setting a minimum rather than a maximum. I think I could extend the tail to end exactly above the rearmost tip of the tire without causing a commotion and failing an on-the-spot "new rule" during tech inspection.
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12-12-2016, 07:34 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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Here are the areas I think I can add material without major trouble. Which are likely to help, and which are dead ends? Assume also for the tail that width could be increased to match my pelvis as shown in the overhead view.
I played with the ecomodder template a bit, but when it comes to actually placing that onto my form, there are actually a ton of fine adjustments possible, I'm not sure what the "right" overlay placement would actually be?
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12-12-2016, 07:36 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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https://youtu.be/RnRPiENn954?t=4m10s
There's the bike in action, to visualize the environment. Or just for fun.
That airbag vest you see will not be used at Daytona. Willing to take the short term risk to get slippery.
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12-12-2016, 07:53 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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1)Do they require a stock front finder? Or can you simply make a bigger finder ,cover more tire/wheel . The way i read it you you can not enlarge the findder but you can build a 1pice larger finder. I am gessing that this rule is to maintain airflow to the main brakes.. So make shure your brakes are not compromised by adjustments to shape and size.
1b) depending on the end results, has potential.
2)The fairing on your back is the basic shape I'm referring to. Make it come up to the bottom of white strips down to the seat and back to tip or beyond of the bike . It would be part of you, aka not obstructing in the view of the rider. The other benefit would be that it would work in the corners moving with you when you shift to lean off paint.
Can you post a link to a pdf rule book or web site . TY.
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1st gen cummins 91.5 dodge d250 ,HX35W/12/6 QSV
ehxsost manafulld wrap, Aero Tonto
best tank: distance 649gps mi 24.04 mpg 27.011usg
Best mpg : 31.32mpg 100mi 3.193 USG 5/2/20
Former
'83 GMC S-15 Jimmy 2door 2wd O/D auto 3.73R&P
'79 Chevy K20 4X4 350ci 400hp msd custom th400 /np205. 7.5-new 14mpg modded befor modding was a thing
87' Hyundai Excel
83 ranger w/87 2.9 L FI2wd auto 18mpg on the floor
04 Mitsubishi Gallant 2.4L auto 26mpg
06 Subaru Forrester XT(WRX PACKAGE) MT AWD Turbocharged 18 plying dirty best of 26mpg@70mph
95Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 14-18mpg
04 Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 16-22mpg
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12-12-2016, 09:50 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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So you mention 12 degrees per 10% of length- is there some article I can review that discusses this rule of thumb?
As for the helmet and leathers, I really can't modify them per rules. With my chest slammed against the tank, that helmet position is my maximum upward look (actually takes a lot of effort). I am trying to get an unpadded race seat, which should lower my pelvis an inch or more into the bike- as the rest of my body follows, I might get those extra degrees clockwise rotation of the helmet that you recommended.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79
1)aero template Overlay found at the top under tools .Im working on an android so not as easy but doable
2a) that is pretty good-looking down to about the love handle area ,wight stripe on your lethers, things get too steap from there adding a spacer to fill the Gap behind your hips and continue the transition to the tip of the tale. Think like a fish. (|) not like a whale (--) your+bike are so short you don't realy have room for reattachment vertically.,However horizontal taper ,your setup is small, and you are tapering on 2 plains L&R. 12°per 10%length ea.take it as farback and down as the rules alow..
Tuck. your helmet has a cam built in , the gold wing, to reduce buffeting caused by the uneven separation of a standard helmet. However in the pic its more of a trip edge /spoiler. It needs ~(aproxamitly) 15° rotation clockwise. Based on the brick wall as levle this 15° will reduce frontal area and move the template 6" forward, allowing more room for taper=better CdA
2b) add a tail to your lether with industrial velcrow make follow the 3d template on 3 sides T,L,&R. Botom contorted to matchrear faring. Was thinking semi dense open cell foam.
2c) gap should be interference fit. Ast why I suggested the gap garde be attached to you . And with this attachment it must give in a crash and be brake away to prevent further injury.
3a,b)see 1 and 2a
3c) idk Aerohead or others may chime in.
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12-12-2016, 09:56 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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I took a look, what they have for a 2006 YZF-R6 is pretty much the same as what we have in hand..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmo
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12-12-2016, 10:10 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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HP economizer
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Here's the rulebook:
http://www.ccsracing.us/forms/2017/r...20Rulebook.pdf
They say it can't cover the wheel- technically the wheel s not the tire, so I might be able to extend the fender down the sides another inch or two only blocking view of the tire but not the rim- is that even worth it?
I noticed that a lot of factory race bikes have a fender shape like mine, but they cut the back side off a lot sooner than mine. Check out this pic- Nothing to the rear of the fork tubes. I suppose they have a stack of radiators in hand in case they shoot a rock through one.. unlike me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79
1)Do they require a stock front finder? Or can you simply make a bigger finder ,cover more tire/wheel . The way i read it you you can not enlarge the findder but you can build a 1pice larger finder. I am gessing that this rule is to maintain airflow to the main brakes.. So make shure your brakes are not compromised by adjustments to shape and size.
1b) depending on the end results, has potential.
2)The fairing on your back is the basic shape I'm referring to. Make it come up to the bottom of white strips down to the seat and back to tip or beyond of the bike . It would be part of you, aka not obstructing in the view of the rider. The other benefit would be that it would work in the corners moving with you when you shift to lean off paint.
Can you post a link to a pdf rule book or web site . TY.
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