Moving my dad's shed. (Advice? Roll on pipes? Furniture dollies?)

[Xist]

Originally Posted by JSH

I wouldn't want to be standing in the way when a 4x4 studded with rebar comes out of the ground under tension.

Don't forget! I am supposed to cut the rebar at an angle so it penetrates easier!

I guess that I had better livestream this because I may not be able to upload it myself for some reason.

When I moved the shed the first time I had 16 3x18 rollers. Now I have 4 6x96 ones. I wonder about the difference in surface area, but I would expect the larger rollers to have an easier time with uneven ground.

The thing is, I have stacks of 2x6es and 2x4s. It may not be waxy, but if I jack up each side, remove the rollers, put down 2x6es, put down the rollers (with a chock block or something to keep them from rolling the wrong way), and then put down 2x4s to spread the weight across the joists (which run the other direction).

Then I would have:

1. A smooth and even surface for the rollers.
2. Orders of magnitude more surface area.
3. ????
4. Profit!

I think that I took a left turn somewhere.

Ooh! I would have my 2x4s and 2x6es under the shed, which I am trying to move, and not inside of it!

Hey! Do you know what might reduce fraction by 12x?!

Buying another 22 rollers!

[freebeard]

One piece of rope or vinyl-covered steel cable on each of the two diagonals.

Is the pull toward the house or parallel to it?

[Xist]

Originally Posted by freebeard

One piece of rope or vinyl-covered steel cable on each of the two diagonals.

I need to pull the back-right corner and then pull the whole thing forward.

In theory I would be finished already had I just pulled straight sideways and straight forward.

[JSH]

X Bracing. When you put tow cables or ropes in tension diagonal to a square structure it keeps the structure square.

[Xist]

I used cargo straps to keep my first loft bed square. It drastically reduced squeaking.

Would that work better than 2x4 bracing?

Hey, do you mind if we talk... crazy?

If you put a rope, cable, strap, or anything around a shed it will squeeze it. Perhaps damage it. What if I removed the trim on the far side, screwed boards onto the back, and tied the rope to that?

I could screw into the siding and trim, but I would rather hide screw holes under the trim.

Would a 2x4 withstand that force?

Would a 4x4?

[freebeard]

I guess my reply didn't save, I see the Thanks did.

With six cables you could rigidify the whole structure. It is empty, isn't it?


https://mathgarage.files.wordpress.c...4-am.png?w=614

[Xist]

Yes, aside from the stacks of 2x4s and 2x6es that I mentioned, the 4x4s that I didn't mention, all of the stuff that we keep in the back, because this is a shed, I don't have anywhere to put it, and my projects take forever, so I don't want to have them sitting outside indefinitely.

[freebeard]

Which weighs more, the shed or it's contents?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Xist

Yes, aside from the stacks of 2x4s and 2x6es that I mentioned, the 4x4s that I didn't mention, all of the stuff that we keep in the back, because this is a shed, I don't have anywhere to put it, and my projects take forever, so I don't want to have them sitting outside indefinitely.

Wait... You are trying to move a shed full of lumber and other stuff? I think we have found the issue. I bet it gets a lot easier to move and less likely to pull out ground anchors if you empty it before your next attempt at movement.

[Xist]

Hold still while I make it better.

Wait, this will take a while. Get comfortable!

[Why the heck would you wait?! ]