Moving my dad's shed. (Advice? Roll on pipes? Furniture dollies?)

[Xist]

You will have to pry it from my cold, dead phone?

I have a video for the first part. I stopped it to adjust the cable, started recording again, heard some random sound while I was moving it again, and when I called it for the night I lost the second video.

I ran to Home Depot and Walmart this morning, but I forgot to grab rebar. I was in and out of the former in 5 minutes, but the latter took me longer, although I got my Nyquil, cough drops, cleaning supplies, chicken soup, and some kind of special filter from Walmart pretty quickly.

Who knows how long it would have taken if I sent Mom? I adjusted my alternator belt, ran to those two stores, and sprayed stuff for my family with Lysol, climbed up and down a ladder several times to fix our Christmas lights, exchanged messages with the families that I was seeing for therapy today, and probably other stuff before Mom was even up, and then she had a full schedule with napping and Hallmark.

I hadn't realized that you can use the self-checkout at Walmart without touching it!

I really want a nap, but I am going to see if I can pull the shed the last foot.

Maybe I will put my weighted blanket on the cable.

[freebeard]

I just read that and now I want a nap.


....and a wench.

[Xist]

Well, I don't know anyone else's reason. I never pretend to know what others are thinking, but pulling on a corner caused the shed to twist, so, as I mentioned, I needed to pull the back corner.

I made sure to drive the bar nice and deep, but the first time I left it for days, so the ground froze around it. I hit it with a sledgehammer 20 more times than I did the first time, but I think that I was just too tired to be effective. The first time the bar tilted most of the way up. The second time I stopped when it suddenly stood up all of the way again.

I feel like I could put my Honda together faster than I could keep pounding the bar into the ground. Mom will just need to be angry for both of them, since Dad isn't around anymore.

I didn't want to fight the digging bar pulling it out the second time. I poured water in the hole and returned 10 minutes later.

It came right out!

I wish that I did that on Saturday!

I also bent the big steel bar slightly.

I need to watch the last video to see if I moved the shed at all.

[orange4boy]

Is there anything like rebar, but sharp?

Grounding rods but they are ten feet long. Do you have a way to cut steel?

[Xist]

Home Depot has 14 in-stock near me and they are 8 feet long, but at 5/8" thick they are less than half as big as what I have been using.

Hopefully three would hold up, but I drill holes in a 4x4 to brace them together?

[orange4boy]

To stop the shed from parallelogramizing, (that’s a real word, yup,) you need to cross brace the floor. One 2x4 at 45 degrees from corner to corner with some screws or nails at the floor joists should do it.

My father used to move grand pianos by himself. You are doing great.

[orange4boy]

Do they cut rebar at the Home Depot? Could you get them to cut the ends off at an angle? Even a 45 would be helpful for pounding. You could also do that with a hack saw. Are you pounding them in to the ground at an angle? They should go in at maybe ten to fifteen degrees away from the shed.

[Xist]

I wrote an insightful and thought-provoking response on my phone, but managed to hit Previous Thread instead of Post Quick Reply with my thumb, and it was lost forever!

I planned on describing the knot that I put in the rope as "The Eagle-Scoutiest Square Knot that an Eagle Scout ever knotted squarely" and planned on claiming that it was a real word, I saw it on Twitter.

The shed is 8x14, so 45° wouldn't go corner to corner.

Hold on. 8² + 14² = d
64 + 196 = 260

Quick! What's the square root of 260?!

2 x 5 x 13. What a mess!

I would need 16' 1.5" boards.

That sounds easier than building a frame under the shed like Basjoos originally recommended. I would just need to ensure that I put the rope where the reinforcement is.

The rope notched the trim on the corners. I am sure the 3" wide tow strap that I saw at Harbor Freight wouldn't do that, although it may have dented it slightly, but at 30 feet long, I would have needed 2!

I just watched the video. I didn't move the shed at all the second time last night.

Yes most store are able to cut the rebar for our customers. I would suggest calling your local store to make sure they have a cutter and that it is working.

Cutting Rebar I don't know how likely it is that they can cut it at an angle, but how many pieces would I need if I keep pulling a digging bar at least an inch thick out of the ground?

When I looked up grounding rods Google suggested a video where a guy uses a demolition hammer to drive an 8' grounding rod completely into the ground in less than a minute, but he definitely has far softer ground than we do.

I need to get another magnet on an extension to try to fish out two screws for my heater core.

[JSH]

If you are pulling hard enough to bend a inch digging bar you are going to want to pound that rebar down farther than 1 foot. I wouldn't want to be standing in the way when a 4x4 studded with rebar comes out of the ground under tension.

Cutting that 8 foot of rebar into 3 pieces and driving them all the way down through a 4x4 might work. You could also dig a small trench the width of the 4x4 perpendicular to the path of the rope, set the 4x4 in the bottom and then drive the rebar through it. That would give you the full width of the 4x4 to pull against plus the 3 pieces of rebar.

Or just keep pounding that digging bar farther down (maybe 4 feet). Could be easier to dig a post hole 1-2 feet at a slight angle and then drive the digging bar down another 2 feet or more.

[orange4boy]

It does not need to be exactly 45 degrees. Corner to corner is good but i think you knew that. One board should do it.

This will make your job far, far easier: If you can get some sheets of new osb (oriented strand board) from home depot. It has a waxy side that is very slippery. Jack up the shed or lever it up or somehow slide that osb waxy smooth side up under the shed as far as possible. Half way would be plenty and would allow you to get it out again after. but any amount would help. This will create a much, much lower friction ground plane to slide on. Then your pulling forces would be much lower too.