Mullet's Metro Project

[Hacksaw]

Johnny, the repair looks like it'll hold for quite a while...must be nice to have that worry gone. I'm having mine reinforced on Saturday for the price of a case of Bud Light. I'm going to clean up both areas with a sand blaster tonight if I can make time. The guy doing the repair has had his own welding business for many years and is confident he can fix her up good. For the price he offered me, I'm gonna step back and keep my hands clean for once. I'll be sure to take pictures!

[Johnny Mullet]

I am glad to hear you are saving your Metro from the scrapyard also! For the price of a case of beer, I would give that dude 3 cases! Seriously!

[MetroMPG]

Another great set of pics showing people how to save their Metros.

I'm sure you're planning this already, but I'd highly recommend oiling/rustproofing the structure anyway. They also go from the inside out on the bottom portion, below the horizontal seam.

[Johnny Mullet]

You know how the plastic shield has a "pushpin" that mounts to a hole in the front of the arms? I already sprayed oil into that hole until is was coming out of a new found hole in the floorpan! Looks like my next project is to fix that hole! The hole is about the size of a golf ball, but enough to make me want to address it before winter.

Less than 5 months till Christmas! OMG, I better get to work!

[bennelson]

Hey Johnny,

Thanks for posting those pix!

I need to do this on my Electro-Metro. What size metal did you use? Thickness/gauge?

I don't have any scrap around - looks like I will have to just get something from the hardware store. Not sure what thickness of material or shape either - bar/flat stock, sheet stock?

What type of oil did you spray down inside that column? I do see that hole the plastic push-pin thing goes in. It is a perfect spot to get some oil or grease in there!

Also, did you disconnect the steering, or do anything else to make a little more room to work, or did you just weld around all that stuff?

[Johnny Mullet]

The thickness/gauge? I did not really check. It was a scrap piece of flat bar stock about 20" long and was enough to do both sides. It is thicker than the factory steel, but not like tank armor. If it's too thick, then you tend to burn holes in the thinner stuff trying to get it to weld properly.

I actually used plain, used motor oil right out of my oil drain at work. 80% of this used oil came out of a 1999 F-250 with a 7.3L DIT. I put it in a spray bottle and squirted till my hand was sore. The oil was thick and it's easier if you thin it with mineral spirits.

I did not remove or disconnect anything except the tires. I did keep some wet shop rags handy to protect the steering boots and fuel lines on the driver's side. There is a surprising amount of room to work when it's on a hoist.

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

You know how the plastic shield has a "pushpin" that mounts to a hole in the front of the arms? I already sprayed oil into that hole until is was coming out of a new found hole in the floorpan!

I know just the holes. Both of them! (The ForkenSwift has the golf ball size rust hole in the floor that needs fixin' too.

For all my talk, I haven't oiled either of mine yet. But they'll be done before winter for sure.

[Will]

Luckily I did not need to oil mine. The car had a horrible oil leak when I bought it. I cleaned it to check for rust before purchase, but by the time I got home(300 mi and 4 qts later) the underside was thickly coated again.

It's all now pre-oiled!!

[Johnny Mullet]

My crank seal has a slow leak (about a quart every 3000 miles and the passenger side arm area was in pretty good shape! I decided to support it anyway.

[Johnny Mullet]

Finished a tailpipe mod and uploading pics now.