My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[Piotrsko]

Could be when it's cood you aren't getting enough vaporization and consequently not enough percentage of water addition in the mixture

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Could be when it's cood you aren't getting enough vaporization and consequently not enough percentage of water addition in the mixture

That is what I'm thinking too. I think the water and fuel are falling out of suspension due to the very cool intercooler air charge. The range the combustion in the engine likes is around 60*F to 120*F air temp. So next year I want to add even more water when I start using pump 87 octane. I'll have pump 87 on the main fuel rail and my GEM/water mix in the secondary fuel rail.

[pgfpro]

Spent this week going over my nitrous system logs. I built my very own system with some unique differences from other nitrous systems that are out there. My system is a direct port injection dry system that is designed to work with turbo and supercharged engines. It has a 'phase change' vapor chamber but still runs at subcritical pressures for consistent nitrous flow. Pics below, first pic is a run without nitrous, second with my nitrous system enabled. Around .43 seconds faster via "Dragy" with nitrous with the same ignition timing, fuel flow and manifold pressure. This would be around a dry 50 shot by industries standards.


A couple other take aways from this post. These runs were done in open loop, so the injectors had the same opening times using the same map. This is why there is a 11.7 A/F ratio with no nitrous vs a 12.7 A/F ratio with nitrous. So, if I would have added more fuel to get a 11.7 A/F ratio the nitrous pass would have definitely been faster with nitrous and fuel vs nitrous only. So, some of you might be asking why I did a nitrous vs no nitrous test and run the engine lean on the nitrous pass knowing it would be faster with fuel being added??? In short, I was testing combustion flame speed. I took what I learned from testing my stratified charge lean burn system. When I run my engine at light load and lean burn at 30:1 to 35:1 A/F the flame speed is very slow due to the extreme lean condition. So. I did some testing with nitrous to increase the flame speed and it work amazing. The amount of nitrous that was used with this test was pretty much next to nothing. Pretty much a small nitrous leak amount that I'm talking about. To achieve my 45mpg all the engine needed to make is anywhere from 10whp to 18whp at light load freeway speed. Now back to the performance side of things. I'm running GEM42 fuel that is made up of 91 pump gasoline, E98 ethanol, and Methanol. The alcohols make up most of the GEM fuel. This fuel is great with knock but has a very poor combustion flame speed. So, this is why I did all this testing with nitrous to see how much it would benefit by only using a very small amount to promote flame propagation. So far, the results are great. I have parts per hour PPH of nitrous flow, but I'll get back to that at a later time. PPH flow will be determine mainly by bore size and of course volume of the engine. One last thing is on this system I want nitrous vapor only, but that is another book in its entirety.

[pgfpro]

Here is another set of pics also back-to-back test but a different test date.

[pgfpro]

EcoModder's, Sorry to bore everyone on here with these posts, but I'm using this forum to show my data/information to other people from different forums and social media. It's easier to direct them here to see my progressive timeline.


This photo is a normal performance A/F ratio of 12.2:1 running a single pre-chamber in cylinder #3. This is my hottest pre-chamber (number 1 on my heat scale of 5, with 1 being the hottest and 5 the coolest) Number 1 works well with boost below 20psi. This pull was at 36psi, and I intentionally wanted it to make knock. Knock started late in the rpm telling me that the pre-chamber center electrode heated to the point of self-ignition, and the #3 in-cylinder pressure sensor verified this. The internal nickel alloy heat strap indicator shows signs of degradation also from the heat, mostly due to its placement. The center electrode shows no signs of degradation. My next test is to lean out the A/F to 14:1 at the same boost level with the number 1 pre-chamber.

[freebeard]

EcoModder's, Sorry to bore everyone on here with these posts, but ... It's easier to direct them here to see my progressive timeline.

No problem for me. I read all Recent Posts. but haven't felt need to comment.

[Joggernot]

Sorry, but I'm "color challenged" so I don't see anything in the black thumbnails. Yes, I tried putting them in Paint, but no luck. Please keep posting.

[pgfpro]

Sorry about the pics they start out great but lose a lot of resolution when I post them.

[pgfpro]

After reading my post I realized that I didn't post the reason behind all this.

What my goal is to make this a GCI engine at higher boost while running an A/F ratio of 14.7:1. I knew that my PC center electrode would light off before ignition spark with the hot #1 pre-chamber. The amount of knock in this case only 1.8 count is minimal and won't need a major jump in pre-chamber plug temp or leaner A/F ratio without coil ignition. My goal is to be able to tune with a certain amount of boost/load that will trigger an ignition shut off and go into GCI mode. The reason I want GCI mode is to give each cylinder its optimum combustion starting point that is based on load, A/F and combustion temperature before it starts auto compression ignition. This will give me individual ignition based on load, temperature and effective compression. The effective compression by my calculations is around 20:1 at this boost level of 36psi.

[pgfpro]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1XqwS-R4os

My new video with actual testing the Passive Pre-Chamber. Also, it shows the data logs much better.