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Old 11-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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New route to/from work

Well I got messing around on google maps to see if i could find a better route to work since 60% of my trip is on a major road with too much traffic for the home trip (11am-noon). The walk mode on google maps gave me the shortest route and by quite a bit - over 10%. My *normal* trip was 34.4 miles, and this route is 30.8 miles. Less driving = less mpg needed / trip to keep the same fuel usage.

Anyway... I wasn't so sure about the route since it went directly though the middle of a pretty major city (for my area), but the road is a 35-45mph max most of the trip which is more my ideal speeds and safer for me.

Compairing my trip home yesterday to today...

Yesteardy - 42mpg
Today - 44.7mpg and a shorter trip (took longer, slower average speed)

I messed up a LOT on the coasts, so many spots for EOC it is crazy. Several corners I was still going 35-40mph! I think if I learn this route well enough, I could pull 50mpg trips out of it pretty easy.

Now I'm not sure which route to take to work tonight lol. I got 46.7mpg (no EOC, night time, head lights etc) on the trip in, and there isn't many stops/lights, but then again the trip though town would be less stops since the lights would be flashing yellow.

I really need to get a manual -___- all this EOCing is going to kill my starter/battery

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Old 11-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm by no means recommending this; but I've often wondered if EOC couldn't be accomplished by using some of the similar methods I've considered for my 5spd, but on an automatic...

Using a momentary switch for FI cutoff after shifting the auto tranny in neutral, before coming to the complete stop (say 5-10mph) putting the tranny back in Drive, and release the FI cutoff switch, and the pressure from the TQ converter would (this is the part that I am unsure of) possibly spin the engine back up to Idle RPMs, then shift back to neutral while stopped (less load at idle) and then you wouldn't have to worry about using your starter all the time.

Problems I could see with this setup:
-Your CEL would most likely come on, possibly putting the ECU/TCU in a limp mode

-Hydraulic pressure differential may not be enough to spin the engine after it is cut off

-As I understand, some transmissions automatically shift into "neutral" after a certain duration of closed throttle/brake signal has been detected.

you could also try running a hardwired momentary switch from the battery to the starter solenoid to avoid cycling the key to the start position during drives. I've done this on my Acura, and it works great. just be sure to put an inline fuse close to the battery in case of a short (that part is still on my to-do list *YIKES*)
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the idea nbleak, only problem is, the engine is what engauges the TQ converter, atleast on my car that is how it works. Ex: if I turn off the engine while in gear, I feel nothing different than coasting in gear. If I go to neutral, turn off the engine, and put it in drive, it just free wheels like it is in neutral .

But... I wonder how bad it would be to enable the lockup on the TQ convert to start it, probably wear it out pretty quick.

My differential is just like a normal RWD except it is in the same housing as the trains, I have seen them apart before, neat design, even has 2 separate sections for fluid, even though both are AT Trans fluid.

If I keep going this route, I'll have to make a kill switch for the injectors, probably on the shifter (reuse OD switch maybe). Could put a starter button on the floor like old school dimmer switches.

I know my car does pretty well for my noobie EOC attempts, I got it nearly to 40mpg average before my car hit 130F (when it will shift into overdrive, ~140F for lockup), even though it was something like 4-5 miles into my trip. Seems like the engine was off like 60% of the time, coasting from 35 down to 10-15, then once it got a bit warmer I took it up to 40mph b4 coasting.

I should check into another wiring project for the trans. It is electronically controlled, so 2 solenoids control what gear it is in (1st - 4th) and a separate switch controls the lockup, so I could more or less drive it like a stick besides the fact the "clutch" would be the TQ converter.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
Could put a starter button on the floor like old school dimmer switches.
My luck, If I did something like that, I'd get in the car one eve after driving a HMMWV and think it was dimmer switch...!

Quote:
I should check into another wiring project for the trans. It is electronically controlled, so 2 solenoids control what gear it is in (1st - 4th) and a separate switch controls the lockup, so I could more or less drive it like a stick besides the fact the "clutch" would be the TQ converter.
My truck is similar in that regard, and I've thought of doing the same thing. I've got way too much slippage in the lower gears... I think it's time for a fluid change, but atf4+ is so darn expensive!!! maybe I'll just run some 15w40 like we do in the big trucks and call it a day! (JK!!!)
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My main problem with the auto is the fact it won't shift into overdrive until the coolant is at 130F, and lockup wont enable till around 140F . Probably has something to do with the emissions crap. Just shifting into over drive + lockup makes the mileage go up from ~30mpg to ~40mpg @ 45mph. That 10mpg better + the lockup in lower gears could be a very worth while mod. I read that you will need to trick the ECU into thinking it is working yet by putting 15k resisters (double check the numbers) for each solenoid, or else it will go into limp mode.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the new route happens to run up Saginaw road to Eastman? Have you tried taking Shaffer to Waldo, to the curve and over the river then down river to the road you need? I did it this way when I had an interview at the place you work. a good route that bypasses the town but still keeps traffic down/ lots of places to pass. etc
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Close, basically Orr -> Saginaw -> 30. Orr has a lot of stop signs (like every cross road), so I'm not so sure if it is a good pick for the trip in, maybe 1-2 roads west of that has less stop signs. Then again... my little P&G test showed me I wasn't taking off quite right (too low of load). With my auto trans, I can get ~75 load with a fairly low rpm, shifting around 2200-2300 yet.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Took this route for the trip in to work... netted 45.1mpg. That is with 0% EOC except into the parking lot. Since the car cuts off the injectors when I coast... I tried Engine ON coasting a bit on the bad back roads where 45mph is a bit too fast (limit is 55 lol), got going 40mph and coasted down to 30mpg. Scan gauge was slowly going up per coast most of the time. Out of the entire trip directly though town... only 3 lights function, rest are blinking yellow, and of course I hit EVERY ONE red.... Yesterday in the day time, I only hit 2-3 reds out of the ~12 lights... seems like they were the same ones from my memory!

I must say... the STRESS levels are MUCH lower with this route. I had maybe 2 cars pass me, and that was right in the middle of town (2 lanes per side of road). Normal day to work I have ~5-8 cars pass me, and probably 1 in 10 tailgate pretty bad besides the bright lights (mainly trucks, suvs, and mini vans/vans.... the smaller cars just pass... lol)


I feel like I'm relearning my car since I always thought an auto wouldn't benefit much from the P&G with out killing the engine. I guess ~75% load take off + engine brake > steady speed under 45mph as of my tests so far...

I REALLY need to find a different road by my work, about 3 miles is dirt and it is in BAD shape. Oh and my GPS keeps telling me to take a closed road lol (to and from I hit the same road!)

Best part about the ride in... time wasn't much different than my normal drive. I left ~15 mins early, and showed up around 10 mins earlier than I normaly do (with around 6 mins buffer)

Current goal.... BEAT my current best trip mpg average to/from work! I set them numbers in the summer at the hotest point lol! I already beat that average yesterday on a ~3 mile run with a warm engine, but I don't count it as a legit "trip" since to the location was 38mpg and the way back was 55mpg (P&G testing) ^.^.

Last edited by ps2fixer; 11-06-2012 at 01:00 AM..
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Trip home was amazing mileage... I think I perfected the P&G with my auto trans much better, and the new route (one road west) is only 2 stop signs vs ~10, one less turn (which is a stop on the other route). MPG according to the scan gauge... 48.1mpg. I don't think I have ever had that high in colder weather.

So far... been targeting 80% engine load on any take off or hill that is too large for my high mpg mode. Warm-up mode was via EOC (mainly to stop signs anyway). Hit 2 of the red lights this time, there was more traffic, so the last one turned green just before I got to it .

Really... it didn't seem like that much better of a run, except in town at the 35mph zones the traffic was going ~30mph which got my instant mpg around 50-60 (very touchy) instead of ~40mpg @ 35mph. Weird mpg vs speed ^.^ I saw similar on another post, but I think the mpg @ 40 was the dip and 35 was the best before the 45mph one, which I have been basing my speeds on somewhat. Never had the traffic at 30mph before (rarely in town) so lean from experience I guess.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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glad to route is working for you

I swapped a part of mine last summer and it makes a big difference.

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