Newbie says Hello!

[betasniper]

Grill block is under consideration too, but I only have those three sheets so I was focusing toward the rear of the car first.

Oh, and the A pillar gauge is a Vacuum gauge. Just have to figure out how to run the tube to the intake manifold. I don't have a t fitting.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by betasniper

Well, material fell from the skies! I just got 3 sheets of 4x8 coroplast and am pondering which order of mods I should do?
I'm planning a full belly pan but also rear wheel skirts and a kammback. I'm thinking I would do the skirts first then the belly pan and finally the kammback since I want it to look sort of stock for a while but I'm not too sure.
Oh, and I am currently working on making gauge pods for the dash and A pillar.

I'd consider another material for the belly pan. I don't feel so confident about the resistence of coroplast to the high temperatures from the engine and exhaust pipe

[betasniper]

What would be better for a belly pan? I didn't really think about the engine bay but knew about the exhaust pipes. I was thinking that a gap with insulation would work, but haven't really given it much thought. Probably going with skirts first.

[Shortie771]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...vic-16422.html

Here is a thread where brucepick added an underbelly pan to his 97 Civic HX using coroplast with aluminum sheet metal for the exhaust and maybe the engine area as well. That post has some great pics and info. Hope that helps

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by betasniper

What would be better for a belly pan? I didn't really think about the engine bay but knew about the exhaust pipes. I was thinking that a gap with insulation would work, but haven't really given it much thought. Probably going with skirts first.

I'd rather get a belly pan made out of either plywood or aluminium, due to its resistence to some impacts. Insulating the exhaust pipes is also good. But remember: no matter which material you use, it's good to have some access spot to drain the oil sump

[Shortie771]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

I'd rather get a belly pan made out of either plywood or aluminium, due to its resistence to some impacts. Insulating the exhaust pipes is also good. But remember: no matter which material you use, it's good to have some access spot to drain the oil sump

I agree with the access spot for easy oil changes, but I would go with the coroplast/aluminum combo (maybe full aluminum) and try to avoid plywood. That is simply due to the extra weight that plywood would add. Also coroplast and aluminum might be a much smoother surface for airflow than plywood.

I guess when it comes down to it though, any of those could work just fine. It would just be preference.

[MetroMPG]

Search the AeroCivic thread on the question of heat/coroplast. His exhaust has been fully enclosed for years.

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I'd start with the partial grille block if only because it's quick 'n' easy. Instant savings vs. the more complex parts you're considering.

[Shortie771]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Search the AeroCivic thread on the question of heat/coroplast. His exhaust has been fully enclosed for years.

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I'd start with the partial grille block if only because it's quick 'n' easy. Instant savings vs. the more complex parts you're considering.

I think this might be what MetroMPG was talking about... Not sure though.

Originally Posted by basjoos

Coroplast is made of polypropylene, which has a melting temp of 340F (173C). I have it within 2" of exhaust components from the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter and within 1" of the muffler where the exhaust temps have cooled off a bit. I used aluminum sheet (roof flashing) for portions of the underbody that are closer to the exhaust system. The main consideration around the wheel/suspension area is to allow space for the full range of movement of the suspension and the lock to lock pivoting of the front wheels.

[MetroMPG]

Yep, that's it.

[karmaxul]