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Old 08-11-2014, 08:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vrmouseyd15b View Post
Absolutely not. I'm in it for the mileage. Notice the camber adjustment parts for the front and rear? My stock rears were starting to eat tires, so I went and did it right. First I'll get under the wind, then I'll talk about panning the underside.

I'm sure I mentioned the alignment. It's had to be put off til tomorrow actually because I'm too low to get on any alignment racks near me.

I promise the settings will be all zeros. Camber and toe.
I didn't know there was a way to do it, the kid at the shop told me that there is no way to keep it from bowing out. Why the red bumper? Is that a replacement? I thought about doing a black front/rear bumper when I repaint my civic purple but was unsure about it. Meh.

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Old 08-11-2014, 08:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
I didn't know there was a way to do it, the kid at the shop told me that there is no way to keep it from bowing out. Why the red bumper? Is that a replacement? I thought about doing a black front/rear bumper when I repaint my civic purple but was unsure about it. Meh.
You really trust the opinion of a ricer kid?

Camber kits are not all that expensive and they are a must if you lower your car AND want to save on tire wear.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jedi_sol View Post
You really trust the opinion of a ricer kid?

Camber kits are not all that expensive and they are a must if you lower your car AND want to save on tire wear.
No I didn't but I didn't want to argue with him. I knew he was full of crap because my uncle lowered my Mustang by 2 1/2 inches when he had it, and the tires don't bow out because he put a camber kit on it.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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To OP

modding for performance and modding for fuel efficiency share a lot of the same parts...only for different purposes

1) lowering ride height (reduce frontal area)
2) weight savings - lightweight parts
3) aerodynamics (f1 style mirrors decrease frontal area....smooth underbelly helps reduce air resistance....front air dams direct air away from under the car...etc)

However, most important change you can make is DRIVING STYLE...any mods you do to the car will help fuel efficiency incrementally on top of driving style.

After a while, it becomes a game. Before, you would mod for an extra 5 hp. Now you mod you mod for an extra 2mpg

Have fun!
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi_sol View Post
To OP

modding for performance and modding for fuel efficiency share a lot of the same parts...only for different purposes
.....
After a while, it becomes a game. Before, you would mod for an extra 5 hp. Now you mod you mod for an extra 2mpg

Have fun!
That's why I jumped on this thread, for sure! Jdm dual vtec d15b

by the way, the bumper and one front quarter panel were red when I got the car. I got the quarter panel green, stepped back to look at it, and thought KANJO! After I find my lightweight rims and lrr tires, it's going to need at least 3 colors to make the minion happy!
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrmouseyd15b View Post


The turnbuckle looking ones in the left are for the rear. Cheaters will put washers behind the stock mounts to regain lost camber due to worn bushings.

The ones on the right straddle the front coil overs, and you can adjust front camber where the stock upper ball joint is.

I replaced the lower control arms because you just about have to cut the bushings apart to get them out, and the pretty blue ones were cheaper than stock.


If you want to cheat and line up your rear tires, it usually takes 2 washers behind each bolt (4 total) and most cars will sit pretty again. Since I've got a slave wage mechanic (me), this is only about a $350 mod, including the alignment, all new shocks/struts, Springs and coil overs, and lower control arms, and full front and rear camber kit!



just took this pic for you, Baltothewolf! The top of my front actually looks like it's leaning out right now (really hard to dial in on the driveway), but the rears are pretty straight up and down. Tomorrow all four will sit right.
Now that looks good! I enjoy seeing properly lowered vehicles. I wonder what kind of mpg increase that will give you.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'd love to break 50. Maybe averaging up a few for now. .. still gotta do the kill switch


wow. The minion's headlights used to be pretty even with mechita's


GHETTO LOWERING KIT:




(That was from my trip to Pennsylvania for my first vx tranny and a d15z1)
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hey guys. We'll, good to be back to my thread...

OooKayyy

Thank you each for the kind welcome and support.

I do plan to lower the vehicle, but nothing extreme, and with traditional camber. I try to be conscious of drive-ability when planning suspension height. I need to keep a healthy distance of space to allot for wheel travel, as well as guard the oil pan and sub-frame from any damage during daily commutes. I’ll likely look on CL to purchase used, yet quality, lowering springs that allow use of the OEM shocks, and do not compromise ride comfort (that much). My goal would be a 2 to 2.5 “finger gap” at all corners. I can bridge the rest of the floor gap with custom side-skirts/lips, should I ever choose to build those for aero-function.

Here’s some pics of all of my past projects. They give a snapshot to my build style and history.

2006



2008



2010



2012



2013 (A)



2013 (B)



2014




As I stated earlier, I’m really excited about this project, as it differs from anything I’ve done previously. I love grassroots-style movements, and it’s neat to see what FE-minded enthusiasts are doing about current gas prices and leaving a lower carbon footprint on mother earth. I pose that one can have a safe and reliable car that is: (1) paid for ; (2) looks good; (3) has excellent fuel economy. It’s certainly going against the grain, but I’m happy to do so, as car payments stink, and so does trips to the gas station.

Below are the some pics and overview info. of my 1992 Civic VX, as received. My next post will then outline build plans, followed by my first set of updates.











VEHICLE HISTORY:
CarFax reveals this one to be a Carolina-only car. A bought the car for a gentlemen in SC who did a great deal of maintenance (timing belt, battery, radiator, tranny oil changes, cleaning here/there) during his short tenure owning the vehicle. The original alternator died on my while driving the car back to NC at 12:30 in the morning on the interstate. I limped the car to a gas station and we all rode back in my wife’s Accord. The seller was very kind, he drove an hour north to where the Civic was parked, diagnosed the alternator as being the issue, fixed the car (on his own dime) and parked it at a WalMart. I picked it up that night. LIkely, appears that him washing the engine a few hours before my test drive short-circuited the alternator. Cool of him to fix it, even though there was no way of proving this is what caused the issue.

EXTERIOR/CHASSIS:
The underside is very clean/rust-free. The “Milano Pink” paint is a bit past it’s glory days, but I do believe/hope that the troubled spots are salvageable with some cut/polish work. A pinstripe removal tool will also do wonders for the aesthetics.

INTERIOR:
The interior is black/gray, which is rare and desirable choice amongst Honda enthusiasts. An armrest is also present, which I understand was a dealer option/upgrade. Smoke-free vehicle history. Restoration work needed on the door cards and the drivers seat cover. Upgrades are needed in the audio department, in general.

MECHANICAL/DRIVETRAIN:
Mechanically, I’d say I inherited the car at....hmmm...7.5 out of 10. I was hoping it would be in a bit better condition, but things certainly could have been worse. Car felt a bit under-powered on the way home, even despite the economy engineering of the VX. Tires are very new, Michelin Green X LRR. Clutch feels a little worn, slow to engage. Also, the shifter feels...crunchy. Power is good. A few hiccups in the fuel delivery, at times, only happens when in low RPMS. Grounding cables need replacement/upgrading.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG VX View Post
Hey guys. We'll, good to be back to my thread...

OooKayyy

Thank you each for the kind welcome and support.

I do plan to lower the vehicle, but nothing extreme, and with traditional camber. I try to be conscious of drive-ability when planning suspension height. I need to keep a healthy distance of space to allot for wheel travel, as well as guard the oil pan and sub-frame from any damage during daily commutes. I’ll likely look on CL to purchase used, yet quality, lowering springs that allow use of the OEM shocks, and do not compromise ride comfort (that much). My goal would be a 2 to 2.5 “finger gap” at all corners. I can bridge the rest of the floor gap with custom side-skirts/lips, should I ever choose to build those for aero-function.


Below are the some pics and overview info. of my 1992 Civic VX, as received. My next post will then outline build plans, followed by my first set of updates.











VEHICLE HISTORY:
CarFax reveals this one to be a Carolina-only car. A bought the car for a gentlemen in SC who did a great deal of maintenance (timing belt, battery, radiator, tranny oil changes, cleaning here/there) during his short tenure owning the vehicle. The original alternator died on my while driving the car back to NC at 12:30 in the morning on the interstate. I limped the car to a gas station and we all rode back in my wife’s Accord. The seller was very kind, he drove an hour north to where the Civic was parked, diagnosed the alternator as being the issue, fixed the car (on his own dime) and parked it at a WalMart. I picked it up that night. LIkely, appears that him washing the engine a few hours before my test drive short-circuited the alternator. Cool of him to fix it, even though there was no way of proving this is what caused the issue.

EXTERIOR/CHASSIS:
The underside is very clean/rust-free. The “Milano Pink” paint is a bit past it’s glory days, but I do believe/hope that the troubled spots are salvageable with some cut/polish work. A pinstripe removal tool will also do wonders for the aesthetics.

INTERIOR:
The interior is black/gray, which is rare and desirable choice amongst Honda enthusiasts. An armrest is also present, which I understand was a dealer option/upgrade. Smoke-free vehicle history. Restoration work needed on the door cards and the drivers seat cover. Upgrades are needed in the audio department, in general.

MECHANICAL/DRIVETRAIN:
Mechanically, I’d say I inherited the car at....hmmm...7.5 out of 10. I was hoping it would be in a bit better condition, but things certainly could have been worse. Car felt a bit under-powered on the way home, even despite the economy engineering of the VX. Tires are very new, Michelin Green X LRR. Clutch feels a little worn, slow to engage. Also, the shifter feels...crunchy. Power is good. A few hiccups in the fuel delivery, at times, only happens when in low RPMS. Grounding cables need replacement/upgrading.
It looks wonderful to me for a 22 year old car! And it's good he did the timing belt that's a 150$ job minimum if you do the work yourself. If not, it's close to 500. Anyway, I can't wait to see more progress on this!
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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skidmark - super snail - '89 honda civic wagon WAGOVAN
Team "Old SKOOL"
90 day: 30.87 mpg (US)

Pituca - '19 Honda Insight Touring
90 day: 39.34 mpg (US)
Thanks: 185
Thanked 177 Times in 139 Posts
Absolutely LOVE the wagovan! Nice cars!

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