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Old 01-30-2014, 02:29 PM   #51 (permalink)
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look on google play for a water power engine (hho). Read whole article last part was an eye opener. ie dismantel engine and rustproof all internals to prevent rust forming when using hho. If it works (which i doubt) to recover cost of dismantaling and rust proofing would take years to recover. cheaper to swop to newer engine to get greater efficiantey or buy newer car with newer engine.

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Old 01-31-2014, 11:02 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I tend to keep my posts shorter than I used to to avoid a time out and loss of data.
ctrl A
ctrl C
to copy everything before hitting "submit"
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dmodified1 View Post
Perfect combustion will result in water and carbon dioxide out of the exhaust pipe which would be 0% oxygen
It'd mean water and CO2 out the pipe, but it'd still need excess air during and up to the latest stages of combustion.

Once your Oxygen level drops too low, combustion slows down and becomes incomplete / inefficient. Too little oxygen, and it could stop altogether.

Quote:
so efficient combustion would be a lower percentage.
Honda lean burn ?
More air. Less fuel.

And a nasty tendency to burn the 78% N2 in the air ...


Quote:
you cant have more power and less heat
That's true.
For a given amount of fuel.
If you burn more of the energy there is in it, it'll develop more heat.


Quote:
Extra oxygen in the exhaust means there was not enough fuel to burn all of the oxygen, an engine is an air pump that adds fuel.
You don't burn the oxygen, it burns the fuel.

You always need excess oxygen for proper combustion.
21% oxygen goes in.
The less fuel you (need to) add, the less oxygen you trap in CO2, and the more oxygen will remain in the exhaust mix.

That's when you downsize the cylinder size, reduce the amount of oxygen / air being pumped through, and match it again with the fuel being used.
Or cut out a few cylinders (COD) and put more fuel through each remaining cylinder.


(Still, Iwouldn't inhale 16% O2 mixtures though, they'll kill you.
Air re-mixing happens pretty fast, fortunately, as the driving force is quite big.)
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:06 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Heating the fuel

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
In general I agree with your points George, but if you consider the next generation of fuel injection then give this link a look.

Transonic Combustion | Revolutionizing Combustion Technology
Mech
I've done some experimenting with pressurizing gasoline and heating it (see my book 'Extreme Mileage, 101').
I'm also familiar with the thermodynamics of supercritical fluids.
I perused your website and would have questions, based on my own research. Questions like:
1. How do you achieve 4000 psi with an ordinary EFI fuel pump?
2. How do you control the temperature in the exhaust heating unit to maintain 600°F?
3. Have you tried heating the fuel past 900°F? My experiments got 'interesting' in that range.
4. Have you run into issues of maintaing exhaust temperatures when idling?
5. What are you using to control the air:fuel ratio? I've found that controling the fuel ratio of heated fuel can be tricky, because gasoline is a mixture of over 4000 constituents that vary in percentage, each with its own vaporizing and thermodynamic characteristics.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:54 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Daox View Post
At some point, you lean out the mixture so much that you end up lowering the combustion temperature so that detonation is no longer a problem. But, at this point your fuel charge is so diluted that you run into ignition problems because there isn't enough fuel to properly propagate the flame through the cylinder. This is why lean burn engines have specially designed heads or pistons or both, to increase swirl within the cylinder and more evenly disperse the fuel through the cylinder.
You are absolutely correct if you continue to use the combustion technology that we, as mechanics, have been taught for over 100 years. I don't dispute one single statement or perception you say, as long as I qualify my agreement by saying that your statements only apply to fuel systems that put liquid fuel into the engine.

If you 'lean out' (as in cut back the liquid fuel) going into an engine that has a conventional fuel system, you WILL increase exhaust temperatures because the combustion NEEDS that 'extra' fuel to quench the flame (as in make it so rich it cannot continue to burn) just as I explain in my blog. You are absolutely correct, and it's easily proven just by leaning the mixture in any engine.

It's also true that if you continue to lean out the fuel, in a conventionally fueled engine, till there's barely enough fuel to burn, that the exhaust temperatures will be cooler, but you will also lose power.

I KNOW all this, you are not talking to a novice. I'm a mechanic with decades of experience working with fuel systems. These 'facts' are so easily proven that very few mechanics even question that they are being duped! And some of them will fight to the death to defend the above facts, because their training and experience prove, to them, that the facts are right.

What the mechanics do not know is that there is a better way.
A way to reduce fuel consumption by 90% while KEEPING full engine power and performance.
A way that resists detonation and preignition.
A way that reduces all pollutants (CO, NOx and hydrocarbons) to near zero.
A way that keeps the exhaust temperatures down without having to add 'quenching' fuel.
A way that has been proven and documented dozens of times (see Pogue and Ogle for high profile examples) and is well covered with hundreds of patents.

Most mechanics do know that only gasoline vapors, mixed with oxygen in a narrow air:fuel ratio, will burn.

What mechanics are NOT taught is that only the fuel that is vapor and mixed with oxygen when the spark plug fires actually powers the engine.

Mechanics are not taught that the 14.7:1 air:fuel mixture, while true for open air combustion, is NOT TRUE for internal combustion! And anyone with a scan gauge can prove it for themselves.

Mechanics are deliberately mislead by charts (like the one below), that support conventional fuel system technology, so that they will not 'see' the truths that will prove they were/are being lied to.
Please remember I KNOW what mechanics are taught because I'm a certified automotive technician too.

Mechanics aren't taught that only about 10% of the fuel is vapor and mixed with oxygen when the spark plug fires; resulting in 90% of the fuel being wasted. For engine power, it doesn't matter how much liquid fuel there is; (when it's liquid it might as well be water as far as the combustion is concerned) only the vapor fuel matters.

Mechanics are also not taught that if the engine were fed ONLY vapor fuel, that the chart below would look very different.
1. It wouldn't be based on bogus external combustion fuel ratios.
2. There would almost never be NOx, even on the lean' side of the chart, because combustion temperature high enough to create NOx would only exist for a few milliseconds after the spark plug fires. There would be no continued combustion that causes the overheating of the combustion constituents as they flow out past the exhaust valves.
3. There would be almost no CO for the whole range of 'normal' combustion.
4. The HC would loop like your chart, but it would go to near zero in the optimum range.

The chart below looks like it does because conventional fuel systems dump liquid fuel into the engine.
A small portion of the liquid fuel turns to vapor and explodes when the spark plug fires but the rest of the liquid fuel needs to vaporize and mix with oxygen before it can burn. That vaporization and mixing takes far too long, even with 'swirl' technologies.

By the time this 'secondary' burning gets going (the primary burn was when the spark plug ignited the already existing vapor) the exhaust valves are opening and the flame is burning out past the exhaust valves. You've likely seen race cars with the flames shooting out; that's all totally wasted fuel!

I believe in burning the fuel IN the engine, not in the exhaust. The KEY is to burn the fuel completely within about 12 milliseconds after the spark plug fires.
At this time the engine geometry is exactly right to most efficiently convert the heat energy (pressure from expanding gasses) into mechanical energy. After these few milliseconds the piston is moving 'away' from the combustion faster than the combustion temperature/pressure can push on it (see combustion pressure charts) and the expanding the 'chamber area' is diluting the initial combustion pressure.

The problem with conventional combustion (that we mechanics are all taught to fix) is that when you have liquid fuel, the initial (vapor) combustion produced the heat needed to vaporize it; and it now mixes with oxygen and burns... WAY TO LATE! Now you'll have flames going out the exhaust, burning up your valves and creating high NOx.

But we mechanics are taught there is a CURE! Simply dump in more fuel, so when the initial (vapor) combustion vaporizes the liquid portion of the fuel, the resulting air:fuel ratio is too rich to burn and the flames are quenched.

But opps, there are now huge volumes of CO and HC. Well, there's a cure for that too. We'll add catalytic converters to the exhaust system and burn that excess fuel in the exhaust. There... all better now

Except for you ecomodders... YOU are burning 90% more fuel than you need to. Your engine is designed to run on gasoline vapors, it is running on gasoline vapors. It always has run on gasoline vapors.
The problem is the liquid fuel that is dumped into the engine with the gasoline vapors.
The ecomodder cure would be to stop putting liquid fuel into the engine; then you'd get the mileage already demonstrated by Pogue, Ogle and dozens of others.

So, to make my point clear, when you reduce the fuel in a conventional combustion, you are reducing the liquid fuel without a compensating rise in vapor fuel. This has two immediate and adverse effects.
1. You get 'lean burn' effects because the initial (spark plug fires) combustion has less vapor and
2. You get hot exhaust temperatures because you've cut back the 'quenching' fuel.

How does a person stop putting liquid fuel into the engine? That's what I've been researching and developing practical answers over the last 4 decades.
That's what I'll start to demonstrate here (if I'm allowed) over the next few months. I haven't got much spare time so I'll just be popping in from time to time, addressing comments like this one for now, and getting my projects into the garage later in the Spring.

I will show you simple, inexpensive ways, to reduce your liquid fuel while keeping your (initial) fuel vapors up and how to keep your exhaust temperatures down without needing quenching fuel. These techniques allow you to keep your power and dramatically reduce your harmful emissions.

Please have patience as I first answer the skeptics, hopefully providing enough information that they'll start to see that there is a better way.
After that it's only a matter of finding the most practical means to convert to the better (true ecomodder) way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Here is a graph that represents things well. We know NOx is created at high cylinder temperatures. As you continue to lean things out, the temperature starts to go back down. However, as you continue, hydrocarbons increase as the fuel isn't completely burning anymore.
All exactly true. Your graph is typical of what we are taught as mechanics. Because we are taught liquid fuel combustion instead of vapor fuel combustion.

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Originally Posted by Daox View Post
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:51 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Testing George Wiseman's technology

Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyLugNut View Post
But with little substance.

Your lack of knowledge about throttling, pumping losses and air/fuel ratio calculations show you have a long way to go in understanding combustion.
I think you'll find, as we proceed, that I know a lot more about combustion than the average mechanic. But I do know that I will not gain credibility or respect here until I can prove my technologies work as claimed.

My first task (here) is to make the claims and present my paradigm. Then it's in black and white and appropriate tests can be made.[/QUOTE]

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Originally Posted by RustyLugNut View Post
Are you willing to have someone such as myself check your work?
Absolutely YES! It would be my pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyLugNut View Post
I would be willing to drive up to Washington with a trailer load of test equipment to verify your claims. A trailer load wouldn't be needed - a briefcase would do.
Agreed. Things like mileage, exhaust temperatures and exhaust constituents are not hard to measure. Power and performance is a little harder but some people have portable dynos.

[QUOTE=RustyLugNut;409110]To be exact, I wouldn't need to drive up, there are ecomodder members in your area who would be capable of performing the basic A-B-A testing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyLugNut View Post
Since you seem unable to speak in terms of science and technology, there is really no need to discuss this.
Ouch. I think I've been doing nothing but speaking in terms of science and technology. I'm not disagreeing with anything anyone is saying here, just that the conventional understanding of combustion is not the ONLY way that it can be done; and that there is a better way that's been around a LONG time. I didn't invent it or discover it... I've simply found practical ways to apply it to modern engines.

If you change just one thing (vapor fuel instead of liquid fuel), everything changes and most mechanics simply don't understand this because it goes against everything they were taught. I know, I am a mechanic. If I didn't know what I know, I'd be saying exactly the same things you guys are telling me.

Just because I'm pointing out that there is a different way to do things does NOT mean that I do not know science and technology! I'm pretty sure that few here could match my mechanical IQ (tested off the chart).

I'm multi-skilled and have accomplishments that NASA can't duplicate (like an electrolyzer design, independently tested, at near 100% Faraday efficiency).
My knowledge and skills are both horizontally and vertically integrated. I researched, designed, manufactured and sold hundreds of them worldwide. They are not only efficient, but half the weight and size of the 'competition', quiet, rugged, user-friendly, designed to last 20 years minimum, easy to maintain and repair. It's better than the design that William Rhodes originally patented (he was a rocket scientist that not only worked for NASA, had over 100 patents and worked on retainer for the government up until he died in his 90s). I had my design on the market before I ever knew Mr. Rhodes and we became very good friends.

I know my science and technology, not only in theory, but in the most practical ways imaginable.

But I understand that proof is required, that is the scientific way after all

Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyLugNut View Post
I think we should go straight to testing. Are you open to this?
Very open. But it'll have to wait for summer. Right now I'm on a writing sabbatical and my shop is in storage. The vehicle I'm currently driving belongs to my wife's company and (I hope you find this as amusing as I find it frustrating) she won't let me touch it until the warranty runs out.

In the meantime I'll be filling out my profile here and addressing comments so that when it comes time to test, it can be done appropriately, competently and comprehensively.

I personally have three project vehicles (all currently in storage) and an RV generator that I've already converted to vapor fuel (no throttle plate needed). That generator is likely the first project I'll be having you (or whomever you trust) test.

I have several reasons for using a generator to demonstrate vapor fuel technology. First, I usually work on projects that benefit me directly, having my RV generator running on vapors allows me to boondock longer. It's also very appropriate for hybrid vehicles that use a generator to keep the battery bank charged. And it's not too different from the system Tom Ogle patented.

My other vehicles I'll enter in the ecomodder garage, with full details of their modifications and will certainly make them available for testing as soon as they're on the road.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:06 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Water as fuel

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Originally Posted by chefdave View Post
Hi
look on google play for a water power engine (hho). Read whole article last part was an eye opener. ie dismantel engine and rustproof all internals to prevent rust forming when using hho. If it works (which i doubt) to recover cost of dismantaling and rust proofing would take years to recover. cheaper to swop to newer engine to get greater efficiantey or buy newer car with newer engine.
Sorry, but that's pure myth, instigated and spread by people who do not understand combustion (or by Vested Interest that doesn't want water to be added to fuel). Scientific proof that Brown's Gas (aka BG or HHO) saves fuel can be found.

The result of perfect combustion is CO2 and H2O. Your engine already 'makes' and ejects about 9 gallons of water for every gallon of fuel you burn.

When you ADD water, in ways to increase combustion efficiency, like Brown's Gas and water injection, you actually REDUCE the volume of water your engine has to handle.

Let's say you reduce the fuel you need (to maintain power and performance) by 50% (quite a few people reach this goal if the technology is applied correctly); then your engine only has to handle 5 gallons of water. Because the fuel (0.5 gallon) now only made 4.5 gallons of water + the 0.5 gallon you added as liquid.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:08 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
The HyCO 2A is $350. Your website doesn't explain what it does. Who in their right mind would spend that much money on a plastic tube with no explanation of what it does?
Only several thousand people I call customers What they care about is that it saves them fuel. $350 is not much for 25% to 100% gain in fuel economy. My HyCO 2DT costs $3000 and will save a trucker a guaranteed $60,000 over 5 years time... They call that a good investment.

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Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
Do I hook it to my fuel line, vacuum lines, shifter cable?? What does it do?
During the next few months I'll be describing and demonstrating all my fuel saving technologies, the HyCO 2A is one of my most practical. I'll be telling you all how to build your own (after you see it working on my vehicles) out of low cost parts and with minimal tools/skills.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
and You marketing technique is great; you have had all of us sucked to your website to look at your products, but we aren't buying. It didn't work.
I've many times said, and still say, that I'm not trying to get any of you to buy anything. If you are patient I'll be describing everything here on ecomodders.com. In fact I say DON'T BUY anything from my website, because I'm trying to see what I can do to make my stuff available to you FOR FREE! Anyone who buys now will regret it when its for free later.

I have lots of customers. I'm not here to sell you anything. I'm here because I'm hoping that I'll be able to have intelligent conversations and because I've got ideas that aren't even on my website that I'd like to develop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
The HyZOR is a piece of PVC for $388. This is a Brown's gas electrolyzer? Hasn't it been proven over and over that these sort of kits simply don't work? There are pages of threads on this forum that show this.
There are lots of people who haven't applied the technology correctly. Here is scientific proof that on-board electrolyzers DO WORK, if applied correctly. You can even go to the lead page of my website (currently) to see a video of a young lady that got a 25% gain in fuel mileage from a HyZor she installed herself (it eventually got 50% gain when the amperage was optimized).

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
1978 Winnebago with Dodge 440. I read this. So you are saying that I need to remove the throttle plate from my car to use the $350 HyCO 2A?? How do I get the engine to rev? Or run at all for that matter?
NO! With the HyCO 2A, in normal application, your fuel system stays intact and functional. You use an EFIE and MAP Enhancer to adjust for the extra oxygen and lowered intake manifold air pressure. The HyCO 2A does NOT produce enough vapors to 'run your engine on vapor' so unfortunately you wouldn't be able to remove your throttle plate.

If you did have a HyCO 2A system large enough to provide all the fuel vapors you'd need, you would modify your 'throttle' to be a series restriction with the HyCO 2A (like I've done in my RV generator). There is still a 'throttle' of sorts but only to vary the air:fuel ratio, not to provide an intake manifold vacuum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
I checked out your Civic on YouTube. It looks hacked together with its zip ties, open circuit cards, and PVC contraptions under the hood. I could get 50 mpg out of that car without your expensive mods.
I'm glad you could Shows I'm in the right place My area of expertise is complementary to yours.

And I don't consider my Civic mods expensive. Messy yes, finicky yes, expensive, no. When I post it into the garage I'll give a bunch more information than you saw on YouTube. And don't knock the 'open circuit boards' too much, they've been doing their job just fine for over 10 years now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarguy01 View Post
George, I'd suggest you stop writing long winded posts with little factual data and start posting some real people with real results.
If there was a way to answer people without 'long windedness' I would do it. But I feel like I'm bringing something to the table that few here understand; and I get the feeling that 'they' think I don't know what I'm talking about.

I do appreciate the welcome and respectful scepticism. I answer like I do out of respect for what I know these people must be feeling. It took me decades to learn what I know... I don't expect anyone to 'get it' in a few days.

Please have some patience on the 'real results'. First, I've given you all nothing but real results that I've achieved in the past. Second, I'm away from my home on an extended writing sabbatical. I'm quite happy to have anyone check out my project vehicles once I get home and they are on the road. This will happen during this summer.

Hey, I didn't know ecomodder.com even existed until a few days ago. I didn't have my life set up to 'prove' myself at the drop of a hat. It will come, I promise you, please have patience.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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...Right now I'm on a writing sabbatical and my shop is in storage. The vehicle I'm currently driving belongs to my wife's company and (I hope you find this as amusing as I find it frustrating) she won't let me touch it until the warranty runs out.
A wise woman...

Quote:
As I explained in a previous blog, the EFIE is not a fuel saver. It cannot lean out the engine more than the CPU will allow (and that isn't much). The EFIE is designed to allow ACTUAL combustion enhancement technology (like my HyCO 2A or HyZor) to work on EFI engines.
If a disciple were to believe in your theories and accept you as his guru, he would need to buy the EFIE, buy the books (or have you provide them here, gratis) and then buy your HyCO 2A or HyZor before having any possibility of saving a penny in gasoline. And that's not to mention all the other tinkering and materials that would be necessary, nor to mention the potential risks of damaging his vehicle.

And you still maintain that you are not here to promote and sell something?

If your wife doesn't want you tinkering with her car, there must be a reason.

After all, she knows you better than we do.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:33 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XYZ View Post
If your wife doesn't want you tinkering with her car, there must be a reason.

After all, she knows you better than we do.
Shoot, my wife does not want me tinkering with her car, either. But that's not because I don't score 60+ mpg tank-to-tank in my Civic. It's because she does not want her warranty voided. And because she thinks some of my ideas are nuts or ugly, even though we all know they work: such as tire pressure or an airdam.

I don't think the fact that his wife keeps him away from her car under warranty proves anything...

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